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Over heated my engine this weekend

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
The temp got as high as 260*
My question is did I do any damage?The motor didn't make any noises and still runs the same....no coolant in oil.
What should I do as preventative maintenance after an over heat....just change oil?Do the head bolts need retorqued?
thanks
 
Changing the oil is not a bad idea. My 4.0 has overheated several times now and it's taken me a while to figure out the culprit (heater control valve), but I have not experienced any ill affects from the overheating. Of course when the needle pegged I shut it down and let it cool.
 
Blaine B. said:
How was the heater control valve overheating your engine?
Click to expand...

mine exploded this morning causing me to lose all coolant and overheat
 
Replace the thermostat too. A serious overheat can wipe a brand new one, all it takes is one.
 
If you are worried about enging damage, one thing you can do is do a compression test. Low compression in adjacent cylinders obviously means a blown head gasket
 
Blaine B. said:
How was the heater control valve overheating your engine?
Click to expand...

It's made out of plastic and the fittings deteriorated causing a leak in the system. After a while of slow leaking the coolant level got low. It took me a while to figure out my overheating culprit. I replaced almost everything starting with the viscuous coupler on the mechanical fan, then the thermostat, then the radiator cap...........nothing worked until I isolated the pressure leak.

btw, for those of you with overheating problems if you need to add coolant the easiest way is to undo the top radiator hose at the t-stat and poor coolant down the hose until it fills radiator up. I actually had coolant in the overflow tank and thought the coolant level was ok. I guess a major vapor lock fooled me for a while (not hard to do) but once I had the system full of coolant and fixed the leak by replacing the heater control valve all finally came together and it's now working perfectly.
 
no point in the heater control valve, except to break. The blender door will keep the heat from coming out the vents.
 
Jess said:
no point in the heater control valve, except to break. The blender door will keep the heat from coming out the vents.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Are you saying one could simply splice the hoses or use a single hose to and from the firewall. There's no need for the heater control valve? What it's purpose?
 
I don't think so....blend doors control the amount of outside air able to pass through the heater core.......

You're right, it's better without the valve though. Coolant circulates year round and gunk doesn't build up in the heater core without it...

But on the other side of things, it does keep interior temps cooler in the summer being able to shut off hot water flow. Some F350 guys install manual valves to the heater core because they don't have to use MAX A/C anymore when the flow is turned off to the core.

EDIT - It's purpose is to allow or restrict hot water flow to the heater core.
 
I need to visit this site more often. Could have saved myself a few bucks and eliminated that mess of hose attachments.


Oh well.
 
I think the replacement mixer valve from the parts stores is also metal instead of plastic. If you really wanted to you could put a couple of ball valves in line to isolate the heatercore during the summer.
 
Yep, that's what the F350 guys did......ba l l va lves.

The Autozone rep lacement I bought is p lastic though. The origiona lwas meta lwith p lastic tubes.....the AutoZone one is a l lp lastic.
 
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