-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
High Pinion Rear Axle
- Thread starter dlarrivee
- Start date
DaffyXJ
NAXJA Member #929
- Location
- southern MD
How high do you need to be? Corp 8.25, D-44, and even the D-60 are low pinion rears, though the d-60 probably has the highest orientation of the three. But the D-60 center is over an inch lower that the D-44, so expect to drag it around.
IT's a trade off (As are most things) between ground clearance, strength and likelyhood of banging the rear yoke on something.
I snapped a rear pinion on my D-44 running 38inch tires climbing a ledge, Smashed a rear ujoint (D-44) on 35's climbing a waterfall, and broke a rear DS (d-44) on 38's rock crawling in a gully.
Also went through three (3) 4340 shafts on a D-44. I chose the ford 9" with 35 spline shafts for the ground clearance and strength. Made a skid plate to protect the daytona pinion support and yoke. So far on 38's, it's working just fine.
Select the rear for the size tires and type of wheeling you run. Improve your skills to avoid/delay the eventual pinion smash on an obsticle.
IT's a trade off (As are most things) between ground clearance, strength and likelyhood of banging the rear yoke on something.
I snapped a rear pinion on my D-44 running 38inch tires climbing a ledge, Smashed a rear ujoint (D-44) on 35's climbing a waterfall, and broke a rear DS (d-44) on 38's rock crawling in a gully.
Also went through three (3) 4340 shafts on a D-44. I chose the ford 9" with 35 spline shafts for the ground clearance and strength. Made a skid plate to protect the daytona pinion support and yoke. So far on 38's, it's working just fine.
Select the rear for the size tires and type of wheeling you run. Improve your skills to avoid/delay the eventual pinion smash on an obsticle.
Well there's not alot of rocks to tackle here, but I'd like to get something strong...
Tire size will be 33" for now possibly 35" in the future so I'm thinking either D44 or Ford 9" in the rear then... (overkill)
It will be locked up, and I'd like to keep the 5x5.5 bolt patter and convert to disc brakes...
Which would you suggest?
Tire size will be 33" for now possibly 35" in the future so I'm thinking either D44 or Ford 9" in the rear then... (overkill)
It will be locked up, and I'd like to keep the 5x5.5 bolt patter and convert to disc brakes...
Which would you suggest?
MercenaryXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Maryland
Ford 9 in pulled from a junker is my opinion, Theyre strong and so many people are swapping them on this board that info is everywhere. F-150 and early bronco versions came w/ 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern and there is a way to setup disc brakes on these 4 under 125 bucks.
Check out www.projectxj.com.
Check out www.projectxj.com.
Some shafts can be resplined but for the cost of new shafts vs. resplining these days new shafts are seemingly the way to go.
If you want something strong I'd highly suggest an aftermarket case.
If you do get an aftermarket case you might as well go 35 spline with the case since the 35 spline axles and cases are usually the same price.
I'd also suggest a ring & pinion from a company who manufactures them without the undercut pinion stem so it has a better chance of survival if bounced on something hard. Click on second photo down here http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html to see where I'm coming from.
Now to get myself scolded for being a salesman, I weekly get calls from people who start with a stock case, break it a few times, buy good parts for a few hundred less than a Hi9, wreck a few driveshafts and wish they would have bought a hi9 and saved many hundreds in the end. That is just the calls I receive NOT everybody's experiance.
The only trade-off with strength, ground clearance, banging the rear yoke, to the Hi9 is the initial cost.
Then again all that info may be overkill for your needs. Just throwing some stuff out there.
If you want something strong I'd highly suggest an aftermarket case.
If you do get an aftermarket case you might as well go 35 spline with the case since the 35 spline axles and cases are usually the same price.
I'd also suggest a ring & pinion from a company who manufactures them without the undercut pinion stem so it has a better chance of survival if bounced on something hard. Click on second photo down here http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html to see where I'm coming from.
Now to get myself scolded for being a salesman, I weekly get calls from people who start with a stock case, break it a few times, buy good parts for a few hundred less than a Hi9, wreck a few driveshafts and wish they would have bought a hi9 and saved many hundreds in the end. That is just the calls I receive NOT everybody's experiance.
The only trade-off with strength, ground clearance, banging the rear yoke, to the Hi9 is the initial cost.
Then again all that info may be overkill for your needs. Just throwing some stuff out there.
Last edited:
Yes we only sell the third member. http://www.truehi9.com/Prices.html
And again I apologize for "pushing" my product on this thread but from a lot of the calls I get people are almost mad at me for not pushing them on the Hi9 when they called some time ago.
For some people cheaper is better, for others doing something as good as possible the first time is the right choice, its hard for me to pick out whos who so doing ones homework before buying is usually the right choice.
And again I apologize for "pushing" my product on this thread but from a lot of the calls I get people are almost mad at me for not pushing them on the Hi9 when they called some time ago.
For some people cheaper is better, for others doing something as good as possible the first time is the right choice, its hard for me to pick out whos who so doing ones homework before buying is usually the right choice.
If you do end up with a stock case from a junkyard maybe you can get lucky and find a somewhat stronger nodular case. It will have an "N" cast into the front of it.
Also look for a case with 2.891 carrrier bearings as they usually have thicker carrier caps since the bore for the bearing isn't bored out as much as a 3.062 carrier bearing case.
Also look for a case with 2.891 carrrier bearings as they usually have thicker carrier caps since the bore for the bearing isn't bored out as much as a 3.062 carrier bearing case.
DaffyXJ
NAXJA Member #929
- Location
- southern MD
Those pics made my mouth water.
Any discounts for ordering front and rear at the same time? rear spool 35 spline front arb 35 spline?
Any discounts for ordering front and rear at the same time? rear spool 35 spline front arb 35 spline?
Unfortunatly we barely keep up with the demand now so lowering the price may cause more problems with people having to wait longer for the product.
We've been trying to keep the price the same for almost 2 years even though the price of every part (gears, castings, lockers, yokes, pinion supports, bearings, ect.) seems to go up every 6 months.
Thanks
We've been trying to keep the price the same for almost 2 years even though the price of every part (gears, castings, lockers, yokes, pinion supports, bearings, ect.) seems to go up every 6 months.
Thanks
Capt. Nemo
NAXJA Member #904
- Location
- Southwest, US
One of the best purchases I've made was the Hi9. I decided to bite the bullet (and work lots of overtime) and build the rear axle once. One other close friend I wheel with was so impressed, he bought a Hi9 also. We now have what call "Hi9 moments" on the trail - when a rock is a half inch or so from our driveshaft and would have taken out the driveshaft had we been running a normal (low pinion) rear axle.
I'm running 35 spline shafts and heavy duty housing from Currie, and this has been on my daily driver for over a year and a half.
I'm running 35 spline shafts and heavy duty housing from Currie, and this has been on my daily driver for over a year and a half.
Similar threads
