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blocks?

swany

NAXJA Forum User
Location
sanford maine
ok i am getting sick of the 4.5 inch lift now and can get a set of 2" spacers and blocks for free. question is is that a good idea to combo the two lifts? what are the pros and cons of wheelin with blocks?
 
2" steel bloxs arent too bad I think...watch for axle wrap...some springs can handle blocks better than others...also use good quality ubolts and recheck the torque later....and make sure they are steel blocks that will sit on the spring pad right...not slipping off one side or another...

the wife shattered a 2" block one year at the crawl...it didnt come all the way apart until I was pulling it out once we got home...turns out it was aluminum painted black (previous owner had put the suspension together)...
 
Pro's....their cheap

Con's....they will ruin your springs in short order.

You might be able to get away with them on the street with a small engine, but if you flex it and torque it, you will wrap your springs, probably taking out a driveshaft while you are at it.
 
Pucks up front are fine and a great way to get some more height. Blocks in the rear are asking for wrapped springs. JMHO of course but I ran blocks in my 4 popper xj for a while and it threw rear DS all the time. I cannot count how many rear shafts I have destroyed in the last 3 years.
 
I run 2 1/2 inch blocks on like a 3-3.5 lift spring pack and a 1.5 inch shackle for 7-7.5 inchs lift. Blocks are just fine, but they don't flex as good as a full spring pack, and you need to by longer U bolts too. I don't run spacers, but I think they are fine, they just don't flex at all of course. Go ahead and by them, I wheel on a 4.0 HO with a 5spd manual and I have no problems with axle wrap or breaking shafts.
-Patrick :passgas:
 
ok ya the blocks are steel and what do you mean by putting pucks up front? i have a million pucks from my hockey days so i guess i just need an understanding and some pics to clarify. thanks for the info
 
No question blocks will increase spring wrap and wear your leaf springs out quicker. Blocks have nothing to do with flex in the springs, the springs will flex the same with or without blocks.

I like running blocks, and have had 2.25" blocks for many years. My reason for favoring blocks is that I can use a flatter spring pack and still have more lift, and the flatter spring pack does usually flex more than one with more arch. I like soft springs for ride and flex, and the blocks allow for that by providing lift without increased spring arch and stiffness. A flat spring will usually droop more than one with more arch. However, I also run a traction bar to control spring wrap and avoid premature spring fatigue. If you run more than 1.5" blocks you should also have a traction bar, or you can have serious problems with axle wrap. If anyone says they run big blocks with no wrap problems, they either have supper stiff springs whitch won't flex or ride well, or they don't do much.
 
my lift is pretty sloppy, old rough country 4.5 inch kit, rear came with full aal and shackle, front came with springs and (gasp) fixed lower control arms. As me and my buddy installed the lift i threw in a pair of 2" steel blocks and longer u bolts from autozone in the rear, and my shady mechanic buddy made some 2" coil spacers with some stuff frome the home depot. I still dont know what it is, however he ran them on his xj for 2 years with no problem, he also did a body lift on my buddys 79 bronco using 8? pieces of 4x4 treated deckwood, PRETTY SCARY! Anyway, I've ran blocks with the stock spring pack for over a year, giving them a few dozen hardcore trips and I only had a small problem with spring wrap once when my ubolts had loosened up on me. However, I have a 2 door and everyone knows how 2 doors NEVER BREAK, and can outwheel ANYTHING!!!!
 
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