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new Axel

Smittty9785

NAXJA Forum User
just picked up a 8.8. all mounts shaved off. just curious if anyone had the measurements to mount new spring perches. trying to figure out whats the measurement between them... thanks
 
what you need to do is bolt it up and measure and make sure its centered
and the pinion is at the right angle for your setup.

than tack and remove the axle and weld them up
go a little at a time and let it cool.

justin
 
Smittty9785 said:
just picked up a 8.8. all mounts shaved off. just curious if anyone had the measurements to mount new spring perches. trying to figure out whats the measurement between them... thanks


I have done this and I will not give you some garbage about get under it with a tape measure. And you could probably search but I will tell you.

First off: you need to get a pencil and paper.

with your old axle removed, you need to find the center of that axle. write this down. Then from the center to the center of the coil spring cups write this measurement down. Do the same for the rest of the mounts. Double check your measurements. If you go off center of the axle you can not go wrong.

If buying brackets I recommend RE kit. around 400.00

Put your new axle on a set of jack stands and paint it flat black. The reason for this was to lay out all the measurements and using soap stones it easily shows up. First find the center. Make some big marks so they want get wiped away. Then add all of your other measurements. Now the big question is pinion angle. This is how it is, you do not won't to steer into the ground. You will need a torpedo level place a floor jack or something stable under the pinion. Place the level on the steering/knuckle. somewhere that is flat so you can make sure your steering is level not pointing down.

once you have all of this done you are ready to tack some brackets on. Make your tacks secure enough that the brackets will not pop off if hit hard. Then slide it under and check it out. Make sure your brackets line up correctly. Your upper arm bracket will need some gussets due to it being so high up from the axle. This is the one on the passenger side.

I am sure I missed something, but that is pretty much how I did mine. I did not have to cut anything off of it. It worked out perfect.
 
caglezxj said:
I have done this and I will not give you some garbage about get under it with a tape measure. And you could probably search but I will tell you.

First off: you need to get a pencil and paper.

with your old axle removed, you need to find the center of that axle. write this down. Then from the center to the center of the coil spring cups write this measurement down. Do the same for the rest of the mounts. Double check your measurements. If you go off center of the axle you can not go wrong.

If buying brackets I recommend RE kit. around 400.00

Put your new axle on a set of jack stands and paint it flat black. The reason for this was to lay out all the measurements and using soap stones it easily shows up. First find the center. Make some big marks so they want get wiped away. Then add all of your other measurements. Now the big question is pinion angle. This is how it is, you do not won't to steer into the ground. You will need a torpedo level place a floor jack or something stable under the pinion. Place the level on the steering/knuckle. somewhere that is flat so you can make sure your steering is level not pointing down.

once you have all of this done you are ready to tack some brackets on. Make your tacks secure enough that the brackets will not pop off if hit hard. Then slide it under and check it out. Make sure your brackets line up correctly. Your upper arm bracket will need some gussets due to it being so high up from the axle. This is the one on the passenger side.

I am sure I missed something, but that is pretty much how I did mine. I did not have to cut anything off of it. It worked out perfect.

Some great advice, but he's working on an Ford 8.8 rearend.
 
LMAO, guess it would help if I had of noticed that. Same principle though, right?

Find the center of your old axle, and the measurement to the spring perches. It is a lot easier than a front. My dana 60hd bolted right in. I did not have to cut or remove the perches. It was out of a 77 dodge 4 door 2wd 3/4 ton truck.
 
caglezxj said:
I have done this and I will not give you some garbage about get under it with a tape measure..

great advice.. wrong end of the Jeep..

he is working with a REAR AXLE with NO BRACKETS on it... tape measure is where i'd start and maybe i'd write down what it tells me on paper.. :doh:
 
I would have the old axle pulled out so you can get good measurements. But thinking it was the front there is no way you can measure all that stuff laying on the floor. The guy was asking a question apperently he has not done this before, and the simple get under there with a tape measure is not good enough. When you ask someone a question would you like it to be detailed or short. Short meaning lacking any instructions/or answers to your problem.

Way to often I see people on here throw out short remarks, and the search button. I myself would like to ask my own question and get my own results. Maybe there is new people on the board with more experience. Any way lets get back to the point.
 
Smittty9785 said:
just picked up a 8.8. all mounts shaved off. just curious if anyone had the measurements to mount new spring perches. trying to figure out whats the measurement between them... thanks

Sorry about getting the front and rear axle swapped. You can still use the same method for the rear but your pinion angle will have to be inline with your transfer case. Good luck with the swap.
 
caglezxj said:
I would have the old axle pulled out so you can get good measurements. But thinking it was the front there is no way you can measure all that stuff laying on the floor. The guy was asking a question apperently he has not done this before, and the simple get under there with a tape measure is not good enough. When you ask someone a question would you like it to be detailed or short. Short meaning lacking any instructions/or answers to your problem.

Way to often I see people on here throw out short remarks, and the search button. I myself would like to ask my own question and get my own results. Maybe there is new people on the board with more experience. Any way lets get back to the point.
yea just trying to get a little help. im sure one point in time you asked a question that probley didnt sound all to smart to some people. but thank YOU(caglezxj) for the advice.
 
caglezxj said:
I have done this and I will not give you some garbage about get under it with a tape measure. And you could probably search but I will tell you.

First off: you need to get a pencil and paper.

with your old axle removed, you need to find the center of that axle. write this down. Then from the center to the center of the coil spring cups write this measurement down. Do the same for the rest of the mounts. Double check your measurements. If you go off center of the axle you can not go wrong.

If buying brackets I recommend RE kit. around 400.00

Put your new axle on a set of jack stands and paint it flat black. The reason for this was to lay out all the measurements and using soap stones it easily shows up. First find the center. Make some big marks so they want get wiped away. Then add all of your other measurements. Now the big question is pinion angle. This is how it is, you do not won't to steer into the ground. You will need a torpedo level place a floor jack or something stable under the pinion. Place the level on the steering/knuckle. somewhere that is flat so you can make sure your steering is level not pointing down.

once you have all of this done you are ready to tack some brackets on. Make your tacks secure enough that the brackets will not pop off if hit hard. Then slide it under and check it out. Make sure your brackets line up correctly. Your upper arm bracket will need some gussets due to it being so high up from the axle. This is the one on the passenger side.

I am sure I missed something, but that is pretty much how I did mine. I did not have to cut anything off of it. It worked out perfect.
so pretty much take this advice and add it to the rear diff? measure from the middle out to the spring perches. and the 8.8 at the knuckle completly horizontial foreward.. is that a correct way of putting it? not too sure on the pinion angle part.
 
Smittty9785 said:
so pretty much take this advice and add it to the rear diff? measure from the middle out to the spring perches. and the 8.8 at the knuckle completly horizontial foreward.. is that a correct way of putting it? not too sure on the pinion angle part.

The 8.8 doesnt have a knuckle.
 
oh well how do i get the angle for the pinion? get the level on the flat part of the 8.8? make sure that is level then keep it jacked there? then just make my welds on the perches?
 
azxj87 said:
what you need to do is bolt it up and measure and make sure its centered
and the pinion is at the right angle for your setup.

than tack and remove the axle and weld them up
go a little at a time and let it cool.

justin


These are the directions you should be following. You can't measure and weld on perches due to the pnion angle.

Get a RUFFSTUFF Specialties (NAXJA SPONSOR) rear 8.8 kit. Comes with perches, shock mounts, U bolts, and spring plates for $114 shipped.

Put the perches on the 8.8, get it under the truck and snugly bolt it up with Ubolts, measure from your backing plates to the springs on each side and adjust till there the same. Put the wheels on and set the truck back on the ground. Jump up and down on the rear bump a few time to settle the springs. Bolt up the drive shaft. If you have a SYE put a jack under the front of the pinion and rotate it until the pinion has 3 degrees or so less angle than the driveshaft. Yes you'll need an angle finder (about $13). It doesn't matter what the angle is and long as the pinion is 3deg less. (ie; your parked in a driveway that's not level) If you don't have an sye (now's the perfect time to do one!!) then the pinion needs to be at the same angle as the rear of the Xfer case. Tack on your perches then pull it, fully weld them and paint her. DONE!!

Hope that helps, I did mine like this in about 2 hrs by myself.

Oh yea, remember you'll need the 1310 driveshaft adapter from spicer. If your replacing a D35 the 8.8 and the adapter is pretty close to the same length (no driveshaft mods). Not sure on the 8.25 though.
 
i gonna be sitting about 7.5" of lift up front and 6.5 in the rear. im gonna be getting the spicer kit sye and tom woods driveshaft. your saying i wont needs driveshaft mods? and not too sure on the pinion angle part. is it supposed to be completly straight up and down on the leve from the pinion?
 
Smitty this is all way way way too confusing..... BUT since I need another 8.8.... how about I just come by wherever you are and take that pesky thing off your hands for ya......
 
1 million dollars
 
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