Buying Used XJ Perdicament

Hello folks. I've been hovering around this board for a while now. I've been looking to get an XJ for some offroad fun. So I've been reading up on here to gain some good info. And it's wonderful!

Well here's the deal. I've set aside around $4,000 to start a project truck for offroad fun and inclimate weather. I came across 2 XJ's today though that I'm not sure which one to get (if either of them). Here's the 411 of them. (I didn't have too much time to look them over so I don't have any really good details)

XJ #1.
1990,
I-6,
138K miles,
Budget Boost (looks like between 1 and 2"),
decent no-namebrand 31's with probably 45%-50% tread left.
Body- nothing to write home about. but strait. no visible rust
Price- $3900. But I'm sure I could get him to take $3000

XJ #2
1989
I-6
168K miles
decent a/t tires (stock hight, so not oversized tires)
body - cracked paint and a nice straight seam line above the left fron fender -- looks like it's been wrecked before
Price- $1000

Neither dealer knew much about them because they had just been traded in. XJ #2 seems too good to be true for that price. so you know what they say about that. Neither doesn't know if they have anything wrong with them. Dealer #2 seemed to really want to get rid of it cause if he didn't sell it in a few days, he'll have to pay someone to take it to an auction.

The worst thing is that I'm not really mechanically inclined. Both fired up and ran good. they both had their underbelly's painted so I really couldn't get a good judge of them.

So what do you guys think? thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.

I think #1 is too much money for a '90 and I think #2 is too cheap. Keep looking.

i agree with eagle...but on the older xj's always check the air filter for blow by. Atleast i do on any vehicle i look at. For a 88-92 xj look at a price range of like 1700-2500. I would sell you mine but i am not mean. It needs work. Are you still up near Tech??

Thanks for the replies guys. old88xj, yeah, i got a job with Norfolk & Southern Railroad in Roanoke.

you should be able to get a decent XJ fro about $2000.. i bought my trail rig for a "too-good-to-be-true" $600 and gave it about 600 more... thats just mechanicals to run it safely and confidantly.. the body is next years project.. buy the most solid body you can find.. an engine or trans can be replaced... get under it and poke around with a little stick.. body seams, corners, places where thee may be a lil more undercoating than the rest of the floor.. above the muffler especially.. pull up the rear seat and look in the area under it. signs of rust or repair? good luck in your search and dont jump on the first one you can afford.. take a peek at Ebay too...
mike

Hey I got an 89 w/146000 for 1400
in NC.

I just bought a 95 4L/5sp, 130K miles power everything and AC, good body with minor scratches, for $3500. This was after 3 months of looking at every conceivable paper and car website known to man...

yeah, older XJ's around here even up to '93s go for $1000-$2000 all the time, i would'nt say its too cheap.

eric

If you have the time...wait for a HO (high output) 4.0. You will like the power difference. The new JP mag has a listing of the XJs they like..I kinda agree...although mine wasn't listed (96' the year before they upgraded the axels.
Just to add to your thaught process. I have been thinking about building up another XJ. My idea would be to find a rather used model. Add fibre glass fenders and hood, install some Beard seats and gut the rest. No electrics (seats. mirrors windows etc.)
But.......I am kinda mechanicly inclined and the extra work is no big deal to me. I would bet that you will become a better mechanic if you put some effort into it and if you own a Jeep you WILL be putting more effort into it!!!
Best of luck...and let us know what you end up with!!

I tried to do a search, but came up with bupkis. What year did they start putting the 4.0 HO in the XJ's?

92 wasent it for the HO? I've never had a problem with torque out of my nonHO. Horsepower I would like more of but I dont use hp on the trail. I'd go with the older one, less guilt about cutting and denting, plus the 89 could have a d44, check to see, right? Get there before they open one morning to hear it crank cold, cold, cold, turn off the radio and ac and listen cold... Listen for the bottom end, if it sounds like hammer heads rattling even for a second move on. Wear some thing grungy and crawl under for a look. No gas seeping at the tank? No funny wires zigzaging underneath, gear oil or brake fluid seeping at the drums, etc. Check to see whats been replaced already too. Carquest or napa parts or junkyard/discount parts. Can tell you abit about the financial status/care the previous owner gave it. I could go on forever about little things I look for shopping, but I'm a pro right? Got my own little car lot and cant afford to make mistakes in purchasing(still make mistakes). Going shopping at a 2000-2500 vehicle auction tomorrow(Anyone want to walk around a big parking lot in florida during the summer for 6 hours?) BTW $1000 for the 89 isnt bad. He might get $800 for it wholesale in florida.
$1000xj
$600 lift
$300 misc lift related mechanical
$500 tires
--------
$2400
Leaves enough left over for jeep mechanical repairs so the wife/significant other doesnt get peeved about going over budget. Once it all works then the left over is equally distributed to the jeep budget of everyone who gave advice....:wave1:

And to think that I was considering selling my 89......171k miles, $1300 book value, over $5K in drivetrain, lift, armor mods. Straight body, clean interior, could use a fresh paintjob but still looks good from 50 ft.
Hmmmm, sell for a huge loss or move the lift and axles over to a 95+ body........

Or fix a few dents, add a 98 front clip and a fresh coat of paint, replace the motor with a new one when it goes and run it till my 5 year old can drive.......see you in Moab 2014

one more quick question... is there any place on the XJ's that list all of the options like what axles it has or transfer case? I know that on my truck all that good stuff is listed on a sticker in the glove box. thanks again...and sorry for all the questions.

Hokie Hokie HI

Just a wild suggestion.... get the VIN and call the parts guy at the dealer. Pretend you are the second owner and are thinking of bringing the rig in for complete overhaul. (Carrot and stick) The guy will be able to pull up the build sheet for that VIN and tell you everything you need. Worth a try and easy and free. Good Luck and GO GATORS !!! (its gonna be a tough year with Bozo the Clown as coach again)

i just bought my 89 XJ AW4 and NP241 with 147K on it for $1000. I put about 400 in wheelbearings and rewelding the door. That was in PA. I would go for the 89 and try and pick it up for about 800. I'm in sales for a dealer and if they wanna sell it they will probally let it go for that because they are going to lose money at auction. just my 2 cents

91 was the first year for HO. I bought mine 91 4.0HO Laredo for 2000.00 This might sound crazy but i pulled a 4500lb. trailor from Sd. to Co. 860 miles with no problem. U haul said it would not be possible, showed them. But wait for the HO

Save your coin and get into a 92-95.....92 started HO 4.0 , no renix, no disco axle, 23 rather than 21 spline TC/tranny.... you can cycle the key 3x and pull codes...... oh ya open cooling system.... the lil extra youll spend will easily be worth it because you wont have to deal w/ all the above mentioned.

Regards
Chewy

Go for something in the '91-'95 years. The HO came out in '91 and in '96 and up, you need to spend a little extra cash to get the drive line vibes out above 3" of lift. If you get one with a D44, it is next to finding gold. If it has a D35 most likley a "C" clip, there is a strong chance it has a LSD (limited slip diff) almost a locker. In this year range, you find one with a Chrysler 8.25 it will be weaker axle shaft than the '97 to present 8.25. The newer 8.25 is compairable to the D44 (danna #'s show there limit i.e a D44 can handle 4400 lbs) But IMHO they are still crap. The diff is longer as for as the pinion gear side. But it also has this really nasty flat spot on the bottom that is about 5" wide asking to catch a rock and stay there.

If the 4wd shifter shows 4wd part time and 4wd full time, I think it is a 242. Otherwize it will be a 231.
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/facts/axles/axlefacts.htm
http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm

scroll down
http://www.newventuregear.com/tcases.html

thanks for all of the great info guys. it's been a real help. now i'll just take my time finding something. that's one thing i was blessed with -- patience. once i do find something, i'll become a full payin' member and post some pics along with plans / progress pics. thanks again for all of the help.

Mlake is right, HO's came out in 91 and the open coooling system came along with it. Things you want to look for - oil dripping off the rear of the oil pan/bellhousing area- that means you need a rear seal. That is something you will want to do right a way anyway if it's got anywhere near 100k (some less some more) While you're under there see if the floor is rotted above the muffler/cat. While you drive it see if you feel vibrations/noises in the front end. The front ends are a bit fussy and require some careful maintenance.
If you take the VIN to the service department when they aren't too busy they will print you the build sheet which lists every option on the vehilce. Very helpful, Just don't do it more than once or they will get suspicious
Welcomed a-board. Keep us posted.
ASAT