going from 4.5 to 6" need some info??

get ready for dw, and lots of vibes.
You really need adjustable uppers and a little longer lowers.

im doing the same, same situation too lowers and stock uppers. although i am ready for the death wobble that you will most likely experience at that level because i have driven for a while without the front sway bar...
the shims are what im posting about, as many people will tell you on here, its really a matter of YOUR xj they are all different (thats why there the best lol) but seriously, you have to actually measure the angle that your driveshaft is with respect to your pinion.
ive read that 15* is the maximum in either direction that you would want to have your driveshaft (even though you would not WANT to have it there) that measurement shoule be as close to zero as possible. the shackles should help out some with the pinion angle and shims will correct this even furhter, tho i doubt you will get to zero.

id say get the 4* its better to overcompensate than to undercompensate.

I paln on doing the same, going from 4.5 to 6 inch soon, but what I would do is install a 3/4 lift shackle with a 1.5 block, I know that is a little over 6 inchs but it is good to keep the rear a little higher then the front.

full length shackles would be a better choice, not only do they work better to set pinion angle, AND work better with shims, they reduce the effects of axle wrap and spring wrap. they will keep your springs steadier where as blocks tend to warp the springs and cause sag, especially if you have the add a leave lift.

plus, if you remove the isolator you should sit at around even height which is fine still

furthermore, imho buying shackles only would cost less.
AND i wouldnt trust blocks over shackles..
just my .02

rocklandxjer said:

im doing the same, same situation too lowers and stock uppers. although i am ready for the death wobble that you will most likely experience at that level because i have driven for a while without the front sway bar...
the shims are what im posting about, as many people will tell you on here, its really a matter of YOUR xj they are all different (thats why there the best lol) but seriously, you have to actually measure the angle that your driveshaft is with respect to your pinion.
ive read that 15* is the maximum in either direction that you would want to have your driveshaft (even though you would not WANT to have it there) that measurement shoule be as close to zero as possible. the shackles should help out some with the pinion angle and shims will correct this even furhter, tho i doubt you will get to zero.

id say get the 4* its better to overcompensate than to undercompensate.

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death wobble really has nothing to do with your sway bars being connected or disconnected. i get dethwobble everyday multiple times and its wierd if i dont get it. it really sucks! having no steering stabalizer, a horrible drag link angle, and track bar mounted underneath my axle doesnt help at all.
i have a 4.5" rough country and teraflex spacers and shackles so that should be about 6" but it isnt because my rear is wrapped really bad and sags like no other.

no no no, please post up when you drive into VA, anybody running 6.5" of lift on stock arms. i wanna make sure i stay off the road.

I went from 4.5" to 6" a little while ago. I put in coil spacers and shackles. But I had control arms for 4.5"s of lift. Still had deathwobble. I bought a set of used drop brackets and it fixed everything. My front end is a little farther forward. So my controls arms are a little long, but they work well. I don't know If I would run 6" with stock arms and drop brackets, I don't think that would be enough. Also another thing to think about is you'll get a horrible ride with steep control arm angles. They transfer every bump right into the frame.

Thanks for all the info guys, Like I said I have the LCAs for a 4.5"s lift and stock uppers. I will change them in the future, what is this drop bracket you are refering to?? how does it mount? thanks again.

rocklandxjer said:

id say get the 4* its better to overcompensate than to undercompensate.

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this is not necessarily true, with a sye and dc driveshaft you want your pinion angle to be 2* less than tc output to allow for the pinion to rotate up when torque is applied. if your angles are off in EITHER direction you will get vibes. Just my input, you should really measure it yourself once it is put it together and adjust accordingly.

here is a pic of the RE drop brackets, nice stuff but a PITA to install, much like anything else worthwhile.

inside shot


outside shot

this is not necessarily true, with a sye and dc driveshaft you want your pinion angle to be 2* less than tc output to allow for the pinion to rotate up when torque is applied. if your angles are off in EITHER direction you will get vibes. Just my input, you should really measure it yourself once it is put it together and adjust accordingly.

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true but he doesnt HAVE a sye yet thats y he wanted the shims. also when i said 15* i meant the actual measurement between the pinion and the shaft.

rocklandxjer said:

true but he doesnt HAVE a sye yet thats y he wanted the shims. also when i said 15* i meant the actual measurement between the pinion and the shaft.

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are you saying you don't need to shim with a sye/dc driveshaft? with out sye you want the tc output shaft and pinion to be parallel etc.

Skullvarian said:

are you saying you don't need to shim with a sye/dc driveshaft? with out sye you want the tc output shaft and pinion to be parallel etc.

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Your second sentence is correct. If you have u-joints at both ends of your driveshaft, the angles of each should be as close to the same as possible, and hopefully much less than 15 degrees. This is so the less than circular motion of each u-joint effectively cancels eath other out and you minimize vibrations.

When you install a SYE, or tail shaft conversion, you need to get a driveshaft that has the "slip" in the driveshaft instead of at the transfer case yoke. Usually this is where you get a CV, or double-cardon, drive shaft. The double-cardon joint is effectively two u-joints that are balanced to minimize vibration. So this gives you a self balaced angle. Now because the CV driveshaft still uses a u-joint to connect up to the diff, you need to make that angle (between driveshaft and pinion) as close to 0 degrees as possible since there is no opposing u-joint to balance it's vibrations.

My Rusty's 4.5" lift ended up being 6", so I immediate found myself with bad driveline vibration problems. Which is left unchecked causes alot of wear and tear on things like the bearings in the transfer case. So while it wasn't planned for, I ordered the SYE and CV driveshaft and now I have an 6" lifted XJ that rides like stock on the highway. Smooth as glass, as long as I haven't knocked any wheel weights off on the trail.

Good luck.

i said 15* was the MAXIMUM i would never advise someone to have that at that degree, just saying that ive heard that 15* is the max befor there are serious binding and grabbing problems at the joints.

and no i know you need to shim, i just said you could overcompensate if you DONT have the SYE because the effectsm would be less worse than undercompensating
ex: if 4* puts him at say 3*or 2* under, it would be much better than buying them installing them and getting it to 5* and still having vibes, you know.

I am not arguing about the 15*, I have never needed to know that, anyways, I am just suggesting that he measure it BEFORE he tries to get shims, if you are going to do it, why not do it right, at least to some degree, no pun intended. Actually I am not arguing about anything so, let us know how it turns out.

o believe me i try not to argue with anyone hear, God forbid i need help and that person is the only person who knows the answer.

yea, id say measure first too, the only thing is, without the lift actually on, its hard to determine how much more the angle will be.

just order 4* lol thats my .02 after this whole thing

Just installed my 6" coils and 2" shackles. NO SHIMS NO SYE STOCK UCAS AND RE NONADJUSTABLE LCAS.
Guess what?
NO VIBES NO BINDING. MY SHAFT IS NOT OVERWHELMINGLY ANGLED AND THE RIDE DID NOT CHANGE FROM 4.5"S TO 6"S.
but yes I will still be putting a sye on after I long arm it. Im going to wheel her this weekend Ill let everyone know how she holds up.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.

awesome man! im guessin your jeep is early 90s then. id still shim unless you plan on going sye in the very near future

good luck

yeah it came out pretty good. You are correct I have a 95 sport.. So you recommed the 4' ? Are they pretty simple to put in? any tips?