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Tera Steering Issue

Kittrell

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Thornton, CO
The basic rundown is I just installed a Tera High Steer kit, with GoFerit inserts for OTK. I had to severely clearance the TREs, its damn close. The problem is, with my hand I can grab the tie rod and rotate it down so that it contacts the wheels. The TREs are in the knuckles as far as they will go. Which is not much at all, as there isn't even thread showing under the nut. My first though is maybe a smaller TRE, these Tera ones are fairly large. Heims are a last resort. I don't want to remove these inserts. Any ideas?

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Clearance on the upper, no problems here so far. But its tight.

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TRE Nut

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Overall

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I can't see your pics due to internet filters at work, so I'm just guessing here based on your comments.

Are you using the Tera aluminum tie rod and drag link too?
IIRC, the Tera stuff uses 3/4 ton TRE's -- I didn't think Goferit had flip inserts for those large pin TRE's.

Measure the inside diameter of the insert at top and bottom of the tapers and see if it matches the measurement of the TRE pins. If not, get bigger inserts or ream them to fit the TRE taper. I've heard that Nate now makes inserts for those large taper TRE's.
 
Damn DJ, I kinda wondered about those inserts. Seemed kinda small to me at the time - had no idea you were planning on larger TRE's.

I'll second the idea that you need to get a reamer matching the pitch and size of the TRE's. You'll end up reaming out most of the insert though.

Your situation sucks brutha.
 
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TRE Nut

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Not many threads holding that nut on. That cant be right.
 
HilltopXJ said:
TRE Nut

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Not many threads holding that nut on. That cant be right.

yeah that definately means the TRE isn't seating in the insert like it is supposed to... time to ream I say too
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Damn DJ, I kinda wondered about those inserts. Seemed kinda small to me at the time - had no idea you were planning on larger TRE's.

I'll second the idea that you need to get a reamer matching the pitch and size of the TRE's. You'll end up reaming out most of the insert though.

Your situation sucks brutha.

Thats what I was thinking. That there wasn't enough meat to ream the insert. I never realized the Tera kit had larger TREs. Really not sure what to do here. With the Tierod level its driveable. The problem is that a good enough bump pushes it down.
 
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Search in our classifieds for Nate's inserts or PM Cal for Nate's contact info. Cal told me recently that Nate has inserts made up for the big taper TRE's.

If he does, just replace the goferits with Nate's. Steering is important to do right, don't ghetto fab a fix.

An OK fix would be to fab a tie rod and drag link that use small taper TRE's.
 
DJ, a couple of things to consider.....

1) Reaming a bigger opening to accept those huge TRE's means less metal that the knuckle has to hold the TRE in place - basically, as I see your setup, the weak link after reaming larger would be the knuckle arms where the TRE shafts go. If you break one of those on a trail, you're screwed unless you plan on packing an extra Tera knuckle and stock left knuckle. I'm thinking you might be best to down size your TRE's - easier to swap out on the trail and cheaper for buying spares than knuckles.

2) If I recall correctly, didn't you plan on doing the "over axle bracket" to move your track bar up anyway? (Or should I say didn't you plan on ME doing the bracket? :D ) This will free up quite a bit of room on that right side of the axle for the tie rod to be moved around - if you ended up using non-offset TRE's. I'd think that should get the clearance issue solved.

3) What's so bad about heims? I didn't notice much difference at all when I swapped to the Phat Jeeps setup I have as far as road vibes into the steering wheel - if that's what you're concerned about. All you'd have to do is drill out a little of the taper in those inserts, get the proper shoulder'd bolts and you're set. The inserts should actually strengthen the arms as they are now since they're billet steel. Heims would be an easy and solid fix for this in my opinion.
 
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YELLAHEEP said:
DJ, a couple of things to consider.....

1) Reaming a bigger opening to accept those huge TRE's means less metal that the knuckle has to hold the TRE in place - basically, as I see your setup, the weak link after reaming larger would be the knuckle arms where the TRE shafts go. If you break one of those on a trail, you're screwed unless you plan on packing an extra Tera knuckle and stock left knuckle. I'm thinking you might be best to down size your TRE's - easier to swap out on the trail and cheaper for buying spares than knuckles.

2) If I recall correctly, didn't you plan on doing the "over axle bracket" to move your track bar up anyway? (Or should I say didn't you plan on ME doing the bracket? :D ) This will free up quite a bit of room on that right side of the axle for the tie rod to be moved around - if you ended up using non-offset TRE's. I'd think that should get the clearance issue solved.

3) What's so bad about heims? I didn't notice much difference at all when I swapped to the Phat Jeeps setup I have as far as road vibes into the steering wheel - if that's what you're concerned about. All you'd have to do is drill out a little of the taper in those inserts, get the proper shoulder'd bolts and you're set. The inserts should actually strengthen the arms as they are now since they're billet steel. Heims would be an easy and solid fix for this in my opinion.

I do have the OAB, and no, you weren't in line for that..........:D

The clearance issue is also at the driver's side coil bucket mount. As far as Heims are concerned, I just don't want to have to drill out the knuckles for the bolt at this point. If I can get away with a different TRE, then that'll be the easiest thing to get done.
 
Well the Currie TREs didn't do the trick. They have a 7/8ths shank, but I guess the Tera does not. The new TREs thread a little, then won't go in anymore. I am guessing the Tera is a course and the Currie is a fine. They look identical, but the threads don't mesh. Not to mention with the length of the Currie TRE, as is, the TR would be to long. But if I cut back enough threads I'd have almost no enagagement after the Jam Nut.

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