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Build 231, D300 or buy Atlas

XJoachim

XJoachim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Germany
We're having a discussion over at the german Jeep Forum whether it is better to build a 231 with TeraLow and SYE or build a D300 with a flip kit and 4 Low or go and buy a Atlas.

What do you think is the best way?

Ultra Low axle gearing is not possible because this is a daily driver too which sees a lot of highway miles. On the other side it goes in a 2.5 Diesel XJ which is not the strongest so it should have a reasonable low gearing.

Give me your comments. :D
 
If you have the money--------atlas without a doubt. You will spend just as much fixing up the other t-cases to be like the atlas!---Kyle
 
A tera low kit plus SYE is $1,300 in parts alone. Add some labor and you are at the cost of a 3.8:1 Atlas II. If the Atlas is a bit much coin, you need to look at the case from the Rubicon, which I thing is a 241RE? It has larger gears, a factory fixed yoke (no need for SYE) and 4:1 low range. I would never, ever, build a 231 before buying a brand new Rubi case and selling your 231. They are running about $1,400 brand new. Maybe somebody can pitch in and tell you who is selling them...if memory servers it is Advanced Adapters. They do use an electronic speedo, though, so that might require some conversion.

Still, if you don't have any money in your 231, modifying it is the last thing I'd do. Atlas is the best choice, Rubi case is next, then modding the 231.

Nay
 
The answer would depend a lot on the use of the rig, the availability of parts, and the mechanical skills and tools (if any) of the truck owner.

Assuming this truck is overseas and assuming they can get all the parts for the same price as north america.

If it's going to be running tires under 35" than the 231 with a SYE should be just fine.

If he's running larger tires then it gets a little more complicated. If he has fab skills the Dana 300 with a flip kit would probably be next cheapest followed by the ATLAS II.

It all depends on what he want's to use it for, if he can do the work himself, whether he WANTS to if he can etc...
 
OK, i should have mentioned that this guy is not a mechanic and doesn't want to go through the process of finding or locating parts to adapt a t-case to his AX-15. All the work will be done by a professional so labour work has to be calculated and install should be bolt-in.
 
Atlas. Strong, can be ordered to fit any trans, minimal fuss install, low gears, front wheel low option.

CRASH
 
Atlas is the only way to go if you got money and no time or desire to fabricate. And, they make an Atlas 5:1 now!

Personally, I would flip a D300 myself, there is a guy on PBB that did it for $20 worth of steel, then make or buy a clocking ring. The D300 4:1 gears are cheaper than 231 gears also. If you were willing to tear apart the D300 and fab a flip kit, you could have a 4:1 D300 for well under a grand.
 
Atlas = no chain = plush ride. This is usually overlooked, but the difference beteween a gear driven Tcase & chain driven Tcase is night & day. With a manual tranny & a 231 W/4to1 you'll get a lot of surging, lunging, whatever you want to call it, with an Atlas you'll enjoy a very solid ride up & down rocks, ledges etc... This may not be a factor with an auto tranny.
Paul
 
XJoachim said:
install should be bolt-in.
Click to expand...

That rules out the Atlas and the D300.
If you want "bolt in" you can't beat a NV241OR(or whatever it's called).
That being said, installing an Atlas in an XJ behind a AX15 is not really a big deal and only requires a little cutting and grinding.

Jes
 
Bolt-in refers to the tranny, he knows that there will be some cutting in the floor to fit the two sticks. Interesting that nearly all of you guys say the same that i did, go Atlas. :D :cool:
 
BTT, any more comments?
 
Have you thought about an underdrive box like a Klune? Or take a 231 or 241 and trim down the case to just the low gearset? This would bolt inbetween the transmission and t-case. This way you get either 3 or 4 choices for low gear, rather than just one. SO if you find a situation where 4:1 is too low, you can choose 2.7:1 stock 231 low range instead. With Klune and 231 you get 1:1, 2.7:1, 4:1, and 10.8:1. With a dual 231 setup you get 1:1, 2.7:1, and 5.4:1.

I think a guy over at BC4X4.com a guy hacked up a 241 into an underdrive box.
 
Thanks to you guys, i know there are a lot of options out there but they all have to do with intense mods and a lot of fabrication. A Klune-V is something to think about but is the stock t-case strong enough to handle it?

I doubt that a 231 even with a short shaft kit would be strong enough to handle the additional torque a Klune-V produces.

Thanks for your comments and opinions.
 
if you did the 2.7 Klune and put the beefed up chain and output shaft in your 231 you would probably be fine, but then you're talking about Atlas cost anyway...

If you were willing to do a little fabrication I think the ultimate would be a Klune 4:1 in front of a D300 with 2.62. Lots of options, plenty of gear, and strong.
 
JnJ said:
Based on the info you presented, I can't see what there is to debate.
ATLAS :)
Click to expand...
I do Agree,













But then again.

I will happily put MY D300 against an Atlas. (kinds sounds crazy don it;) )

D300/welded beef LOMAX 4:1 flipped clocked HD output.

COST:
D300~ 150
LOMAX 700
RING ~ 170
FLIP KIT 560
HD output ~ 380
TOTAL $1960

PLUS I get 4 inch longer drive shaft (ATlas is longe than 300)
And I get a steel case. and shit load of spares at the boneyard:D, something all the posers out there with an atlas dont have;) Remember if your Atlas brakes/malfunctions you gotta call AA so you can get boned the the second time around :laugh: come to think of it, If I start breaking this constantly then I guess I gotta step up to a 205, (205 starts where the D300/Atlas ends :D)


YA KNOW, AN ATLAS IS NOT THAT BULLET PROOF, THERE ARE PEOPLE THAT HAVE BROKEN IT, ;)
 
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