one piece OEM master/slave unit

I've been searching for quite some time and havn't been able to find much information.

is this unit bleedable?

how do you do it?

I dont see a bleeder nipple on the slave.

Thanks

Nope, we just did our YJ last last month, one piece, already full and sealed from the factory. You just bolt it in, 20 min job...

Thanks,

I already have one to install...actually i think it came from a YJ because my BH is from a YJ.

Just finished the Peugeot AX-15 swap and used the one piece unit. The pedal seems to not disengage the clutch fully. No fluid is leaking out. It was shipped a long way and has been tossed about a bit. Could this have gotten air in the system from what was in the res?

My other thoughts are that the resurfaced flywheel is causing the fork to not reach far enough to disengage the clutch. one piece of evidence that negates this may be that the petal feels just fine..maybe alittle mushy...but it has resistance the entire throw to the floor.

Any thoughts? I just might have to pull the tranny out again and try a new flywheel.

THanks

How much was cut from the flywheel? The hydralic clutch set-up is designed to travel a very set amount, and cutting the flywheel WILL throw the release off. Most of the good parts houses sell shims to correct the misalignment/travel issues. That is why I asked you how much was cut, so that you can get the correct thickness shim.

hmmmmm, i have no idea...this was done at some point during about three clutches and 6 slave cylinder repairs on the peugeot. It's possible it was done more than once. I made sure my custom pedal arm was completely compressing the master and it is. Could i just modify the length of the rod that inserts in the end of the slave cylinder to make up the difference? I figure that 0.01" of reduction on the flywheel should equate to twice that at the slave....not what i consider a major change...but i guess that i could just add that much on the rod and not have to take the tranny out again... agreed? am i smoking crack?

anyone? I'm going to try to modify the rod and see what happens... take some measurements first... and see what happens. I need to get this done today.

I went and looked the M/C likeyours that I have in the shop, and I see no reason why a longer rod won't work. The hard part is going to be getting the length correct, I believe. You might try to slip a piece of rod into the bellhousing, making sure that it seats against the clutch fork, then hold the slave cyl. up to the mounting pad, and try to "eyeball" the length of rod. Make sure sure to measure the new rod against the old, short one to make sure that the new one is not too short when you cut it.

so i removed the slave and noticed some interesting things (my brother installed it). when you install it...the rod is pushed out all the way by a spring in the master(i assume)...so when you bolt it up...you have to compress the rod back into the slave as you push the unit into place. so i figure that this compression length is the maximum distance the slave can compress the fork. I noticed that there is a little plastic spacer about 1/8" thick between the slave and BH, i assume for insulation purposes. Well, by removing this spacer, you're basically doing the same as lengthening the rod, so i just removed the spacer to try it. this makes you have to compress the rod another 1/8" while installing the unit and should give it another 1/8" of push on the fork. THis did not seem to change anything about how the clutch is disengaging.

I still think there's a problem because as i pull the shifter into gear, it feels as if they're already spinning(when going into 1st or reverse when not moving) and they have to "catch" and then it goes into gear.....kinda like when my old peugeot was having release issues.

By this, i now assume that the slave is properly positioned relative to the fork and clutch... just that it isn't pushing the rod out as far as it could... I'm still leaning towards air in the non-bleedable master/slave as the culprit.

what happens if you try to bleed from that little screw on the slave?

THanks

I belive you can put a nipple in that hole.
Somebody on the camanche board did a trans sawp to an external slave. I know he used a compression fitting to mate his od clutch line to the JY slave cylinder. I believe he said he removed a screw and put in a bleeder nipple.
Don't take my word as gospel though, but I know he bled it somehow

interesting, now we're getting somewhere. Thanks

I am going to try this today.

Anyone else?

OK, so i just bled the one-piece unit. No problem...cracked the little sunken head cap screw on the slave and the little hole on the side of the unit began to drip fluid. I did this with the cap off the master and basically let it gravity bleed...went through a little over 1/2 quart of fluid and saw a bunch of air come out. This was so easy...could do it by myself. the clutch feels like night and day now. nice stiff resistance and is now fully releasing. Just thought i'd report in case anyone else cares.

sweet. how the hell did you go thru 3 clutches and 6 slaves

it seemed like every year or so

several were units that leaked a month or so after they were installed...not sure what brand, but installed at a GM goodwrench before i knew better than to pay for the install. THen MR clutch in AZ went through two in about 6 months...while i was at college and didn't have the time to fuss with it. BOY i am glad that peugeot is gone!!! ....i think i will melt it down or something...it was very bad to me and my wallet.