Found some Waggy's with 44's

I’ve got a 89 Cherokee with a non C clip 35. I’ve not been able to find a rear Cherokee 44.
I’ve found some old Waggy’s with 44's front and rear. Before I buy, my questions are.
1. Is the rear Waggy 44 approximately 2 inches narrower than the stock Cherokee 35 axle?
2. Is it acceptable to use wheel adapter’s to go from the 6 lug pattern to the Cherokee 5 lug pattern?
My thought was, it would put the axle width back close to stock.
3. Will the spring perches have to be relocated? I”m pretty sure the shocks will.
4. What year Waggy's are best for a rear Dana 44 to go into my 89 Cherokee?
5. What is a fair price to offer for the rear?
6. What is a fair price to offer for the front?
The front 44 axles are there also, but I believe that’s more work than I want to get in to. As of now I have 31's and don’t think I’ll go beyond 33's. If I get a rear 44. I’ll be putting a Detroit locker in it. Didn’t want to spend that kind of money on a 35.
“Yalls” input is always appreciated..
Thanks guys.
Bruce

2.....why would you go from 6 to 5 lug...I understand you already have the set but 6 lug is stronger.

I believe to put in a waggy 44 you have some work ahead of you especially in the front if you use it, but if not in the rear I think you have to relocate spring pads and shock mounts. Someone who has done should post b.c I am going to make an ass out of myself...LOL

I am interested in what is needed to be done as well, both front and rear.

As for some info, the only thing I know about is pricing.

I found multiple wagoneers at the local Pick N Pull with D44 front and rears. The price is $89 per axle, without the drums, or $109 with. So try and get them for something around that price.

I am also interested in this sap for my cherokee. Especially since I ripped the trac-bar mount off the axle and tore the passengers side bucket off last time I was out.

Things I have found out:
-The waggy axles should be a bit wider then the cherokee axles
-Rear is not hard to install. You need new perches and shock mounts. You also need to know how to weld.
-Front is a bit more tricky. First, it is low pinion so if you want to avoid vibrations at highway speeds in 4x4 you will want to point your axle input at your t-case output by rotating the axle yokes. You can just leave the hubs unlocked if you don't want to rotate the axle yokes though. Then you need to buy or fab a axle bracket kit.

If anyone who has done the swap has any good info or sees something I have said is not correct I would love to hear it to.