Admitting you're behind the curve is a very good first step! Since you know you don't know much about working on your rig, you've got the opportunity to actually not learn very many bad habits...
If you search around here, you'll find plenty of good information. For the more condensed version (sort of a "quick reference") there are quite a few enthusiast sites out there - starting with the "Tech Side" of Works in Progress (my site.) If you do a search for old_man here, he's got a good Axle ID guide and some tech. Opie Bennett (XJ_Ranger) also has some good stuff, but he's revamping his site right now, and it's probably going to be silly for a few more days.
Since this vehicle (the XJ) was in production and virtually unchanged 1984-2001, there's quite a bit that's essentially the same from one year to the next. Do bear in mind, tho - you're OBD-II, and to get DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) you're going to need an OBD-II code scanner - expect to pay somewhere around $200 for one geared toward the hobbyist. It's worthwhile to have, tho, and can be a valuable troubleshooting tool.
You'll need basic hand tools (ratchets - 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive!) sockets, wrenches (both of the last in inch AND metric!) and some screwdrivers and such - checking out most of the "Mechanic's" toolkits at Sears will be a good start.
While you're there, take a look at their selection of multimeters - and pick one. You can get a decent one there for $100 or less, and it's also worth having! Even without the code reader, someone who soaks up basic troubleshooting know-how can isolate problems with a decent DMM, and relating your symptoms here can tell us what's wrong, and we can then tell you what to check and how.
If you do much more than tune-ups, you'll want a decent torque wrench (Sears again...) and try not to skimp on this one. It approaches being CRITICAL when doing in-depth suspension work or internal engine work - so it can usually wait a little while.
I'd also advise keeping a small selection of tools in your XJ proper - I usually have a 10m/m nutdriver (for rear lamp bulbs,) a #2 Philips screwdriver (for front bulbs,) a pair of pliers (for "quick and dirty" field repair,) and a few other things handy as well - right next to the box of spare bulbs, fuzes, and relays (I take no chances.)
Upgrades? Start small - I find there is a lot of benefit to lighting upgrades (especially if you drive at night a lot - like I do.) Check out Susquehanna Motorsports (
www.rallylights.com) for the Hella Vision Plus and Hella E-Code replacement units. If you are going to go up past stock wattage on the bulbs, you'll also want to plan on a headlamp harness. There are a few out there, and I'll be doing my prototype next week to throw my hat in the ring.
Battery cables are usually fairly skimpy from the factory, and if your potential plans include some serious electrical upgrades, that's the first place you should start. Doing so will allow you to also upgrade your alternator - and get the most out of it! (see my website for information on the shop that redoes all of mine - he does mail-order now) and will take you about an hour to finish.
Apart from that, you really should have a plan before you set out on an upgrade path - so think about what you'd like to do with your rig, where you plan to find yourself, and then let us know you're ready for more suggestions. Take your time on this - we're in no hurry...
Welcome to the World of XJ!
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Oh - do check out old_man's axle ID guide (I haven't built mine yet...) and find out what you're working with. You'll find it helps to let us know what you're working with beyond "2001 XJ" - here's a sample line you can use, just fill in what you have...
1988XJ/4.0/BA-10/NP231/D30/D35 (3.07) 0"/30"
Read that as:
1988 Cherokee w/4.0L inline six engine, Peugeot BA-10/5 five-speed transmission, New Process 231 transfer case, Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear (both geared 3.07:1) with no lift and 30" tyres. That one little line can say so much - and saves us asking what your basic vehicle type is if you have a tech question.
You'd start with:
2001XJ/engine/transmission/transfer case/D30/rear axle (gearing, if known) lift/tyres.
The four-cylinder engine is the AMC 2.46L, while the six is the AMC 4.0L. Transmission choices - if you have the 4.0LI6, the automatic is the AW4 four-speed slushbox, and the stick will be the AX15 five-speed. The transfer case is easy to discern - if you have a 4FT option on your shift bezel, it's an NP242 - otherwise, it's an NP231. The front axle is a Dana 30, the rear can be a Dana 35 (ABS, usually for that year) or the Chrysler 8.25 (no ABS.) Gearing will usually depend upon the transmission - check the cover bolts for a metal tag, which will usually have the ratio printed on it.
If you find another tag on the rear axle that says something to the effect of "Use Limited Slip Lube Only" on it - don't forget to buy the Friction Modifier when you get gear oil. You can add it everywhere - but you MUST add it to the LSD axle. If you're not sure, you can go ahead and add it to your gear oil - it won't harm anything.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!
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