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slip yoke eliminator kits

M

mr4x4

NAXJA Forum User
Location
nevada
I'm looking at puting a sye into my mj short bed
so far im thinking of tom woods with drive shaft but i also need a new front shaft $800 for the sye and front and rear drive shafts from tomwoods.

But then rubicon express has one thats $80 to 90 part# re1807.
I know its not the hd but has any one ran this
or should I just spring for the hd

(by the way its going on a 89 mj with 8'' rk. lift 456 gears dana44 rear 30 front spool out back and 35's)
 
Get 2 stock front (dual-cardan) shafts from the junkyard, rebuild both of em with Spicer u-joints, have 1 lengthened for the rear by your local machine shop. I paid $50 for one from the salvage yard, then paid $130 for the shop to lengthen/rebuild it. No probs! and waaay cheaper than TW!
 
Wow, that was kinda a lame sugestion. the Cheap Bastard way isn't even that cheap.

your into a used driveshaft for $180 with used joints. then pay to have them rebuild the double cardan and put new joints into it and your over the cost of a brand new shaft built to spec. plus if you use the RE hack-n-tap that junkyard front shaft is useless because the RE H&T uses a flange which requires a flange type double cardan instead of a yoke type double cardan.

in my book there is only one viable option for the NP 231 and thats the advanced adapters HD tailshaft conversion with a new driveshaft.
 
wel the sye from tom woods is advance adapters and tom woods costom drive shafts not a bad price but still alot af green
 
got my SYE from e-bay for 215 + shipping. Using a front driveshaft, changed it out last week, easy job, fair price, and damn that shaft is BEEFY.

I think that cheap RE kit is a Hack and tap and a lot of people run those without problems, but after seeing the difference in the output shafts you won't catch me running a H&T with big tires and a lift.

just my .02
 
the 1807 is for 96 and newer xjs that have the external slip yoke. You'll need the other kit if your MJ has an internal slip yoke. Be sure to order the right one.
 
reddragon72 said:
the 1807 is for 96 and newer xjs that have the external slip yoke. You'll need the other kit if your MJ has an internal slip yoke. Be sure to order the right one.
Click to expand...

ill order the right one I just did a quick look in the catalog and found that part #

I cant use my front drive shaft cause I threw it away.

the cv joint broke and when it did I put a hole in my tranny and riped the return fuel line completly out pulled all the metal brake lines off the frame rail and smashed them along with broke the 4x4 linkage into many peices
I just thought sense ill have the tranny out I might as well do the sye kit
 
By the time you buy a used front shaft, replace the u-joints and pay to have it lengthen/shortened and balanced, for a few more bucks you could have gotten a MUCH better shaft from Tom Woods that will have a brand new CV joint.

I got my SYE and HD shaft from him and am 100% happy with it...super beefy and works fantastic.If you can find a front shaft that doesnt need to be modified and is low mileage, it would make for a good, cheap fix....but if youve got to change the length, youd be better off just getting a whole new shaft thats got a brand new CV joint and new u-joints.
 
Man, you're calling me lame? Can you read? The part where it says "rebuild with Spicer u-joints"? Hellooooo? Cheap Bastard way, huh? Well, I'm not trying to see just how much $$$ I can tie up in my XJ with top-of-the-line parts that I cannot/will not tell a difference in performance. Yeah, a Tom Woods shaft IS beefier, but so what? If I ran a stroker or V8 or was just stupid with the skinny pedal, I could see spending the extra cash for a definitely stronger driveshaft, but mine, with a new (read : rebuilt) CV joint, new u-joints, and new tube from yoke to yoke(total cost:$180), works just fine. I would call that a new shaft "built to spec", so I (and I know I am not alone) will take the $100 I saved and spend it elsewhere on my Jeep. Have a nice day. L
 
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I have at least 20k street miles and a couple hundred offroad miles with about 8 inches of lift on a shortbed MJ and no SYE. because of the longer driveshaft the angles are far better. just be sure you get the angles right, new u-joints, and you may need to get the stock shaft lengthened about an inch.
 
nice mj
I have a short bed and although I know I could put a longer slip yoke and be fine I just figured while I have the tranny out to replace I would up grade

but I thought of going a little cheap and put the cheapo from RE saves
100 to 200

I did think of rebuilding a used front drive shaft but it cost me 150 to just retube the one in the ford that I bent on some rocks.

But when I checked the cost of every thing I found the tom woods to be about the same.
Yet you may of had something else in mind.
It will cost me at least $50 at the local bone yard for a used one if not more.
 
hotrod22 said:
Man, you're calling me lame? Can you read? The part where it says "rebuild with Spicer u-joints"? Hellooooo? Cheap Bastard way, huh? Well, I'm not trying to see just how much $$$ I can tie up in my XJ with top-of-the-line parts that I cannot/will not tell a difference in performance. Yeah, a Tom Woods shaft IS beefier, but so what? If I ran a stroker or V8 or was just stupid with the skinny pedal, I could see spending the extra cash for a definitely stronger driveshaft, but mine, with a new (read : rebuilt) CV joint, new u-joints, and new tube from yoke to yoke(total cost:$180), works just fine. I would call that a new shaft "built to spec", so I (and I know I am not alone) will take the $100 I saved and spend it elsewhere on my Jeep. Have a nice day. L
Click to expand...

Dude, chill out and yank the thong out of yer crack!

I didnt bash your shaft or anything else on your rig...i just stated what i thought about doing the front shaft mod. No need to get all defensive!

To COMPLETELY rebuild a front shaft with new parts and have it lengthened/shortened, its going to cost you almost just as much, if not as much and maybe even more if you buy expensive parts, as a TW....i just dont see the theory behind that. :wierd:

If you have a cheap/free shaft, have the means to modify the length and balance it with your own tools and can get inexpensive joints, then by all means, go for it!
 
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Jeffro600 said:
Dude, chill out and yank the thong out of yer crack!

I didnt bash your shaft or anything else on your rig...i just stated what i thought about doing the front shaft mod. No need to get all defensive!

To COMPLETELY rebuild a front shaft with new parts and have it lengthened/shortened, its going to cost you almost just as much, if not as much and maybe even more if you buy expensive parts, as a TW....i just dont see the theory behind that. :wierd:

If you have a cheap/free shaft, have the means to modify the length and balance it with your own tools and can get inexpensive joints, then by all means, go for it!
Click to expand...

Sorry Jeffro600, This was directed to Rawbrown with his "Cheap Bastard" comment and you and him for the "over the cost of a brand new shaft built to spec" comment. Maybe I wasn't clear about my shaft, I took a stock $50 front shaft to my driveline/machine shop, they measured my Jeep, they replaced the entire length of tube, installed 3 new Spicer u-joints, rebuilt the dual-cardan part, balanced and painted for $130. Not trying to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I have stated "rebuilt with Spicer u-joints", no they aren't Tom Woods brand u-joints that are $60 each, but I always thought Spicer was a quality u-joint, so I don't understand the "Cheap Bastard" and "inexpensive parts", maybe you could explain?
 
granted i dont wheel real hard, but i have over 100,000 miles on a hack and tap with no problems what so ever.
 
well instead of crying could someone educate me on a TC brake for a 231, I was gonna go with an output flange instead of a yoke and use a 4wheeler disc brake and some kinda caliper that was cable operated.

any write ups that you know of or can think up?
 
Sorry, Cheap bastard is a term I picked up from a group xj'r east of the mississippi. it refers to the tendancy to buy parts from ecology and do things as cheaply as possible.
you got a good deal on your rebuilt shaft. i talked to a couple of driveshaft shops and i get about the same thing, to retube it, balance and rebuild it will cost you about $170 with parts. do the math... and factor in the cost of going down to the wrecking yard and finding the shaft.
hotrod22 said:
Sorry Jeffro600, This was directed to Rawbrown with his "Cheap Bastard" comment and you and him for the "over the cost of a brand new shaft built to spec" comment. Maybe I wasn't clear about my shaft, I took a stock $50 front shaft to my driveline/machine shop, they measured my Jeep, they replaced the entire length of tube, installed 3 new Spicer u-joints, rebuilt the dual-cardan part, balanced and painted for $130. Not trying to be a dick, but this is the 3rd time I have stated "rebuilt with Spicer u-joints", no they aren't Tom Woods brand u-joints that are $60 each, but I always thought Spicer was a quality u-joint, so I don't understand the "Cheap Bastard" and "inexpensive parts", maybe you could explain?
Click to expand...
 
creeperjeep said:
well instead of crying could someone educate me on a TC brake for a 231, I was gonna go with an output flange instead of a yoke and use a 4wheeler disc brake and some kinda caliper that was cable operated.

any write ups that you know of or can think up?
Click to expand...

High angle driveline sells a t-case mounted parking brake kit if that's what you're refering to.

Also, in the last JP magazine they have a photo of a new Tom Woods HD case using a flange output allowing the use of a t-case brake.

HTH
 
Hack and tap with high angle driveline driveshaft (dpg offroad only) and plenty of heavy throttle assaults and plenty of miles no problem. Call Dirk up and he will tell you the same =-=====Kyle
 
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