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TJ trac lock

Fudd

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Winchester, VA
Anybody put a trac lock unit from a TJ 44 rear into an XJ rear (D44)? Any major differences between the two? How much trouble is to install a posi unit, will i have to pull out the ring and pinion gear? And yes I know that trac locks suck offroad, my XJ is my daily driver and is only offroad a couple times a year, I just would like a little positive traction when I need it.
 
I consider trac-loks to be disposible diffs. They don't work particularly well, the clutches are typically worn out in less than 40K miles, the case is weak, the spider gears wear out quickly- all the edges get worn off like beach glass. (They are said to be improved now.) New spider gears and clutches will cost within $50 of a new unit (less than $200). It offends me that vehicle manufacturers sell unsuspecting buyers a limited slip diff with such a known short life.

You don't have to mess with the pinion to install one- only the ring gear, but that still involves setup.

On the other hand the Power-lok is arguably the strongest limited slip diff. It has a tough case, four spider gears, and can be set up so tight as to skuff the tires on turns like a spool. The clutches typically last 100K miles, they are worth rebuilding, setup is the same, and they cost only about $300. Toss the trac-lok.
 
The TJ diff depends on the year, the D44 of old that was used in XJ and MJ's is not the D44 of new.
 
Somebody in a local club had one cheap, just got the wheels turning in my head, I'm not set up for gears at my shop so I'm not even going to mess w/ it, more trouble than it'd be worth.
 
It does fit and it does work! I put one in my 89 D44 - DD and Logging roads in Maine. Makes a big improvement over an open unit. Yes there are better - more expensive units - I paid $50 for a take-out from a 2000 (IIRC).
 
Did you have to reset your gears after the install? I know they're not the best unit but I'm just looking for something cheap without a full locking action
 
I changed gears so had to set up the rear - if using the same R&P all you would need to set is the backlash as the pinion shims don't need to be touched.
 
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