4.10 or 4.56 gears for 4.0L/5sp with 33s?

[cterlizzi]

I have a 94 5sp with the 4.0L which is about to go under the knife and get ARB lockers, Rubicon 4.5" lift, SYE and 33x12.5x15s. I know that I'll have to change the gearing and I'm debating between 4.10s and 4.56s. (Right now it has the stock 3.07s)

My thought goes like this:

I don't plan on running anything larger than 33s since I drive to off-road events versus trailering... and plenty of times I've gone over 2K miles round trip to go to an event... Therefore I don't think I'll appreciate the ride with 35s...

I've always enjoyed the relative power and acceleration of the XJ when it was stock and therefore I don't want to go to an overly slow and/or sluggish setup.

Therefore I think that I can get away with 4.10s and that would help the budget since I'm planning on swapping the rear Dana 35c for a Ford 8.8 which already comes with (1) 4.10s and (2) disc brakes...

However, there's a little voice inside of me saying that I should pop in the 4.56s just in case I ever decide to go to 35s... but then I go back to thinking of what trip from California to Texas, and back, would feel like running on 35s and I go back to my, "33s is all I'm going to get" mantra...

Thoughts, opinions?

[BAs96XJ]

I have your exact set up with 4.10s. I would rather have 4.56. I find myself in 4th gear if I drop below 60. For me 4.56 is the way to go.

BA

[cterlizzi]

I have that problem right now in 5th gear if I drop below 70... Freeway driving in town is always a choice between lugging in 5th or revving a bit high in 4th...

[ChiXJeff]

I ran 4.10s with 33x12.50 MT/Rs for a few months (including a trip to Moab) then upgraded to 4.56s.

No debate. 4.56.

[Mud on the Tires]

Currently my rig is a 1996 4.0/5spd with 33x12.5 MT, 4.5 Rubicon lift and I have the 4.56 gears and I love them. I think the gearing is perfect on dirt or pavement - plenty of power and torque. Gas mileage isn't bad either I average 13-14 around town and about 18 highway. I agree with the others go with the 4.56.

[xjbubba]

Before you spend the money on re-gearing with 4.56's, think hard about your desire for 35's. In my opinion, 4.56's are too high for 35's--the same difference between running 33's with 4.10's vs 4.56's. My experience with 4.10's and 33's, is that you drop too far down in the 4.0l's torque range on the highway--either lugging in 5th or over revving in 4th. 33's and 4.56's were better, but still not enough poop when loaded with camping stuff and trying to climb a decent grade. I solved the problem by swapping in a 5.7L for the 4.0L. Now the 4.56's and 33's are just right. The main reason I don't go to 35's is that I don't want to spend the money for the lower gears I think are necessary to be happy with the 35's on the highway.

[cterlizzi]

I solved the problem by swapping in a 5.7L for the 4.0L.

Unfortunately I can't really do that, unless I'm willing to also change the transmission, since I have a manual tranny... I've been thinking about a turbo kit if I find that the extra weight of tires, suspension, skids, etc is too much for the existing engine.

[el_roy1985]

I don't know about you guys, but the word "stroker" has had my interest ever since I got my Jeep.

[xjbubba]

Didn't mean to imply all is lost unless you swap out the 4.o for a V8. Just that if you think you'll be going to '35's, you won't be happy with 4.56's, so think ahead. As you know the cost of re-gearing is not trivial. But also think about what else going to 35's may require: bigger front and rear axles, as a starter. By the way, you said lockers were your next step. You didn't say which axles you currently have. I believe 33's and lockers will stress a D30/D35 combo beyond what I would want to live with, even with the 4.0, which has a fair amount of low end torque. Just food for thought.

[sidriptide]

do the 4.56s. if you go to 35s you wont be so unhappy as if you went 4.10s.

[casm]

Thoughts, opinions?

Go here (http://www.izook.com/gearcalc.htm) and do the necessary maths. Not to be a smartarse, but it should help.

[Kejtar]

33's, long trips and a stick..... 4.88's without a doubt. I"m happy with speeds up to 80mph (and going more then that in a lifted XJ is nuts... heck, going 80mph is pushing it!). I'm pretty happy on the trail and when I'm not hauling all my extra tools/parts and other crap I get 17~18mpg.
I drove it out with this setup to the Con once, drove it out to Moab twice and I would not hesitate to do it again same way if I had to build it again. 4.10's are about right for 31's (had that setup for a while). It's an all around great combo: perfect for the highway, pretty decent on the trail (although while in 4L you will be dreaming of a 4:1).
When I moved to the 4.88's I had them on with 31's for one trip to the Con. It was AMAZING! Now while I couldn't top 70mph without shooting the RPM's through the roof, the trail capability was AMAZING. Soon after I got 33's and the highway speeds came back to normal range (I could push it up to 80). Anyways, the response on the trail was great, the capability was really great (although again I dream of a 4:1 too damn often). In any case if you have the choice, upgrade your rear axle to D44 or 8.8 and go 4.56's all the way around and if you're not planning to go above 33's you will not regret it. Your jeep will have the perfect balance of highway/trail capability.

[Kejtar]

Go here (http://www.izook.com/gearcalc.htm) and do the necessary maths. Not to be a smartarse, but it should help.
Calculators be damned. According to it, if I went with straight out calculations when going from 29" tires to 31's from 3.07's I should be happy with 3.28's. Ok so why is it that with 4.10's I felt right at home with great fuel economy and great highway speed? I cringe at the though of having 3.55's (which would have been way better then the suggested 3.28's!). Anyways, IMHO the manual transmission models were undergeared from the factory and they suffered with 235's and stock gears (I know, I had that setup and I couldn't climb out of the LA basin without cussing the stock gearing!!!).
In any case, the calculators do not take into account:
1. increased weight of tires/new rims (latter might not be an issue)
2. increased weight of the vehicle to accomodate more suspension crap and whatever else you bolt on
3. increased air drag due to lifted suspension.

[MrShoeBoy]

I have 4.10s and 33s with a stroker and I think its about right around town as its stupid fast :D But once I get on the highway and am doing 75-80mph I feel like I am really revin the crap out of the beast. Going that fast doesnt feel horrably bad in my XJ, its just the RPM seem a little high at 3k which is when I wish I had 3.73 or 35s with the stroked motor. It didnt feel as bad or seem that high with the 4.0L, 33s, and 4.10s. If you are planning on 35s later and want a very reliable trail rig and DD you should ditch the Dana 30 and swap in a Dana 44 and at that point regear to match the 35s but thats just my opinion.

AARON

[Kejtar]

I have 4.10s and 33s with a stroker and I think its about right around town as its stupid fast :D But once I get on the highway and am doing 75-80mph I feel like I am really revin the crap out of the beast. Going that fast doesnt feel horrably bad in my XJ, its just the RPM seem a little high at 3k which is when I wish I had 3.73 or 35s with the stroked motor. It didnt feel as bad or seem that high with the 4.0L, 33s, and 4.10s. If you are planning on 35s later and want a very reliable trail rig and DD you should ditch the Dana 30 and swap in a Dana 44 and at that point regear to match the 35s but thats just my opinion.

AARON
stroker = oranges
stock 4.0 = apples
get the picture?

[casm]

Calculators be damned.

Fair point, but I never said to put absolute faith in them; at best, the gearing calculators give an ideal number based on limited criteria. If anyone takes them as gospel (rather than as a guideline), that's extremely short-sighted on their behalf.

[ZachMan]

4.56s no doubt. I have 33s and an auto wit h4.56s and I'd love 4.88s. I drive 80 miles a day too.

[JAS]

I am planning 33 and have been working on the same problem. by my calculations


33" tires & 4.56 gears will return my jeep to nearly (within 5%) of the stock 27" tires and 3.55 gears.


I will be going 4.56

[Phillip]

stop asking these damn questions. 4.56s!

[Neil]

I have a buddy that runs 33's, a 5spd and 4:88's and couldn't be happier. Gas mileage may suffer a little on the highway but you may see a small increase in town. I run 4:88' on 35's and wish I could have gone deeper but I'm limited by my D30. If you ever plan on going to a larger tire I would suggest the 4:88's and save yourself a headache later.

Neil

[ChuckD]

I'm Niels's buddy,

This is my opinion and direct experience with AX-15 and an OEM 4.0L.

4.10 and 33's I would say is perfect for street use on the trail I would compare it to having stock gears, which I feel is not low enough for the type of wheeling I do.

I went with 4.88's for the off-road performance, on the street 4.88's and 33's aren't too low, but not as comfortable as the 4.10. Off-road, 4.88 kicks A$$!

I don't have direct experience with 4.56, but with 33's it might be the best of both worlds

[MrShoeBoy]

stroker = oranges
stock 4.0 = apples
get the picture?

Did you read the last part? I did have 33s with 4.10s and the 4.0L and said it wasnt bad. I would go that route again if I where to start over. Also stroker was mentioned in this thread so I posted my thoughts on the matter.

Do you get the picture now?

AARON

[ChuckD]

Did you read the last part? I did have 33s with 4.10s and the 4.0L and said it wasnt bad. I would go that route again if I where to start over. Also stroker was mentioned in this thread so I posted my thoughts on the matter.

Do you get the picture now?

AARON


Maybe if the picture had some bananas I could get it! :D

[Neil]

Maybe if the picture had some bananas I could get it! :D


:roflmao:

[Kejtar]

http://www.5aday.gov/tools/assets/photos/banana.jpg

[MrShoeBoy]

Remember to be safe and wrap it up... :D
http://thumb6.shutterstock.com/photos/thumb_large/1541/1541,1107492914,35.jpg

AARON

[cherowagon]

i am currently running 5.5" of lift, 4.o ltr 5 spd. 33x10.50x15, and 4.10 gears.

i drive a lot. drive more than i wheel. had i known, i would have got 4.56's. get the 4.56's. you will be MUCH HAPPIER!

i am soon going to 4.88's and 35's.

[vegas_baja]

I have 4.10s and 33s with a stroker and I think its about right around town as its stupid fast :D But once I get on the highway and am doing 75-80mph I feel like I am really revin the crap out of the beast. Going that fast doesnt feel horrably bad in my XJ, its just the RPM seem a little high at 3k which is when I wish I had 3.73 or 35s with the stroked motor. It didnt feel as bad or seem that high with the 4.0L, 33s, and 4.10s. If you are planning on 35s later and want a very reliable trail rig and DD you should ditch the Dana 30 and swap in a Dana 44 and at that point regear to match the 35s but thats just my opinion.

AARON



What tranny are you running to have that high of rpm's with only 4.10s and 33's?

[NotMatt]

You didn't include it in the poll, but I vote for 4.88's if you even have a slight THOUGHT in your mind that you might go to 35's.

IMO, the lower the better (within reason) when you're pushing lots of tire weight and diameter with a 5-speed stock 4.0L. I'm running 5.13's in my D44's with 36's and I'm pleased with the highway performance.

[MrShoeBoy]

What tranny are you running to have that high of rpm's with only 4.10s and 33's?

I have an AX-15. On the interstate I cruise at or around 80mph so 2900 or 3000rpm feels like a lot. Its mostly the noise that throws me off as I have a loud exhaust, not a lot of sound deadening, and carpet removed. I replaced the speedo gear once but I dont remember if I had it calibrated for the 32s or the 33s so I could be going faster than whats registering on the dash.

AARON

[cterlizzi]

You didn't say which axles you currently have. I believe 33's and lockers will stress a D30/D35 combo beyond what I would want to live with, even with the 4.0, which has a fair amount of low end torque. Just food for thought.

Currently have D30/D35 (i.e. stock)... moving to a Ford 8.8 in the rear and upgrading the D30 in the front... If I went to 35s, I would consider putting something beefier in the front, but the Ford 8.8 should be fine in the rear even with 35s.

[cterlizzi]

Go here (http://www.izook.com/gearcalc.htm) and do the necessary maths. Not to be a smartarse, but it should help.

Not at all... I've been looking for a link like that... besides, it's better to be a smartarse than a dumbarse, eh? ;-)

[Jeepdogrob]

I have a 96 5 speed 4:56's and 33's. I wouldnt want to go any lower (numerically). If anything I would change to 4:88's. I think you would regret the 4:10's.

[carnuck]

I'm running 3.73 with 33" tires. My power dropped severely with 4.10s and the same tires! (I lost all highway speed and fuel economy too!) It seems to be this way more on Renix than HO ones so YMMV. A 4:1 NV241 OR (from a Rubicon) tcase will keep me rolling over whatever is in my way and the new NP231 tcase doubler coming out will be nice too!

[Kejtar]

I'm running 3.73 with 33" tires. My power dropped severely with 4.10s and the same tires! (I lost all highway speed and fuel economy too!)
Hmm what you said doesn't really make sense.

[carnuck]

Didn't make sense to me either until I realized the AMC 6 makes bottom end power. (at least the Renix ones do) My RPM was past the power curve by the point I used to upshift. I couldn't do 70 mph anymore. My fuel economy dropped to 10 mpg (from 15-17 avg) Only improvement was power on takeoff, but I had to upshift so fast that I would lose any gains. I was moving at the time and I couldn't even haul as much stuff in one load.
Mine was originally 3.08 gears and with the 3.73 and 33" tires, it almost matches stock tires and 3.08. That's all I know! (have a stroker coming soon but I need a shop built at my new place so I can work on it!)

[Neil]

Didn't make sense to me either until I realized the AMC 6 makes bottom end power. (at least the Renix ones do) My RPM was past the power curve by the point I used to upshift. I couldn't do 70 mph anymore. My fuel economy dropped to 10 mpg (from 15-17 avg) Only improvement was power on takeoff, but I had to upshift so fast that I would lose any gains. I was moving at the time and I couldn't even haul as much stuff in one load.
Mine was originally 3.08 gears and with the 3.73 and 33" tires, it almost matches stock tires and 3.08. That's all I know! (have a stroker coming soon but I need a shop built at my new place so I can work on it!)


That still doesn't make any sense. I have the Renix system and was running 35's with 3:73's. I had no power at all. No fuel economy and no 4th gear on the freeway. I went to 4:88's and got all of my power back and some of my fuel economy. I am up to 13-18 mpg (from 8-10) depending how I drive and where I drive. You also have to take into account speedometer error after a gear change when calculating millage. As far as being able to haul stuff, when I was moving (up into the mountains) My buddy borrowed his dad's F250 Power Stroke and was following me. I had a full load in the Jeep and was pulling a 16' flat bed trailer that was fully loaded. My buddy said that I was actually pulling away from the F250 on the grades. As in he couldn't keep up. I would also like to mention that the F250 had a much lighter load and was not pulling a trailer. Now I know that the F250 was not made for speed and that if it was pulling all of my load plus the load that it had it would still be able to pull the grades at the same speed. But as far as qualifying my Jeep (and it's set up) as being able to haul a load, I think that any time you can pass an empty Power Stroke with a fully loaded XJ you have set chosen a good gear combo for your tire size. I know that it is a little different with a manual tranny. ChuckD has 33's with 4:88's and I think his mileage is close to mine.

Neil

[carnuck]

35" tires with 4.88 gears is the equivalent of running stock tires with 3.78 gears. Don't believe me? Check out http://4lo.com/calc/geartire.htm and input your tire size (35 in new and 27.1 oem) and 4.88 axle ratio. 2 inches makes quite a difference and I would probably do well with slightly lower gears (3.87 or 3.94 is tougher to come by except in IH Scouts)
I am building a house on the foothills of Mt Index (so I can be only 12 miles from Reiter trails) and my MJ is hauling in everything except the concrete (took 6500lbs in my '73 J4000 last trip)

[mr4x4]

I put 4.56 gears in mine with 33's and it reved a little high at 75 but I do like the offroad performance though
I only went with 4.56 cause I new I was going to put 35's on it

keep in mind I have a 89 4.0 and started with 3.07s before the gear change

[cterlizzi]

35" tires with 4.88 gears is the equivalent of running stock tires with 3.78 gears. Don't believe me? Check out http://4lo.com/calc/geartire.htm and input your tire size (35 in new and 27.1 oem) and 4.88 axle ratio. 2 inches makes quite a difference and I would probably do well with slightly lower gears (3.87 or 3.94 is tougher to come by except in IH Scouts)
I am building a house on the foothills of Mt Index (so I can be only 12 miles from Reiter trails) and my MJ is hauling in everything except the concrete (took 6500lbs in my '73 J4000 last trip)

I just did that and with my stock tires being 28.9x9.13x15 (235/75/15 calculated here http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/tire_calc.php) with 3.07 gears, it says that going to 33s it would take 3.51s (i.e. 3.55s) to keep the stock ratio and 3.82s (i.e. 4.10s) for more low end power...

This kinda goes against a poll that's showing 10-1 for going to 4.55s (and even quite a bit calling for 4.88s)...

[Neil]

35" tires with 4.88 gears is the equivalent of running stock tires with 3.78 gears. Don't believe me? Check out http://4lo.com/calc/geartire.htm and input your tire size (35 in new and 27.1 oem) and 4.88 axle ratio. 2 inches makes quite a difference and I would probably do well with slightly lower gears (3.87 or 3.94 is tougher to come by except in IH Scouts)
I am building a house on the foothills of Mt Index (so I can be only 12 miles from Reiter trails) and my MJ is hauling in everything except the concrete (took 6500lbs in my '73 J4000 last trip)


Calculators are great but they are not always as accurate as they would lead you to believe. I have the gears and the tires so I did the math. I am 8% lower than stock. I know that that is close enough, the Highway Patrol doesn't think so, I still haven't corrected the speedometer. 4:88's are great though very close to stock. I wish that I could have gone to 5:38's. However, I was limited by the D30, it only goes down to 4:88. If I could have gone to 5:38's there would be no need for a Terra low kit. I don't really need to go that fast on the highway. I never take it on the freeway or on long trips.

As far as your thinking of lower gears. You are going the wrong way, 3:87 and 3:94 are higher. I also have not seen them available in aftermarket form. Any combination of axles involving a D30 reverse cut gear only goes as low as 4:88.

Neil

[carnuck]

Calculators are great but they are not always as accurate as they would lead you to believe. I have the gears and the tires so I did the math. I am 8% lower than stock. I know that that is close enough, the Highway Patrol doesn't think so, I still haven't corrected the speedometer. 4:88's are great though very close to stock. I wish that I could have gone to 5:38's. However, I was limited by the D30, it only goes down to 4:88. If I could have gone to 5:38's there would be no need for a Terra low kit. I don't really need to go that fast on the highway. I never take it on the freeway or on long trips.

As far as your thinking of lower gears. You are going the wrong way, 3:87 and 3:94 are higher. I also have not seen them available in aftermarket form. Any combination of axles involving a D30 reverse cut gear only goes as low as 4:88.

Neil


3.87 and 3.94 are lower than 3.73 (my current ratio) Stock tire is 205/75/15 which is 27.1" tall. I don't need Terra low as a NV241 OR with factory 4:1 low range will bolt right into my rig!

[mr4x4]

now I started out with 3.07's and and altho I was happy with the offroad performance dirving to town on the highway at 75 I was reving to a little high. I found myself driving 65 just to keep the rpm down
the drive to town is 70 miles
but around town and here its fine.

I was planning to put 35's on her anyways so I should be closer to stock
although if I started out running 1.55's or 3.73 then I could see 4.56 with 33's

[cterlizzi]

now I started out with 3.07's and and altho I was happy with the offroad performance dirving to town on the highway at 75 I was reving to a little high. I found myself driving 65 just to keep the rpm down
the drive to town is 70 miles
but around town and here its fine.

I was planning to put 35's on her anyways so I should be closer to stock
although if I started out running 1.55's or 3.73 then I could see 4.56 with 33's

And you're hitting on a point of mine... I'm going to be driving on the highway a lot (like 2000 miles from TX to CA and back) so I do want to be able to drive 75-85 without revving too high... Right now I'm running 235s (28.9s) with 3.07s and it's fine on the highway (actually quite peppy)... That's why I'm debating so much between the 4.10s and 4.56s...

[Neil]

Look... You have two choices... If you want to be at or near "stock" gear ratios, and you want to get good gas mileage... Sell your Jeep!!!! And buy a Geo Metro. If you want to own a Jeep and have a little fun... Stop worrying about mileage and staying "stock" and modify it as much as you can afford. Then drive it like you rented it!!! If you are looking at lifting or putting larger tires on your Jeep, then stock or near stock gears will not work!!! Let us not forget the aerodynamics of a Cherokee. It's a rolling brick people!!! The higher you lift that brick in the air and the more rolling resistance you put on by adding larger tires the worse this problem becomes. You either need more horsepower or lower gears to combat this. Also, as much as Jeep and the government (EPA) would like you to think that your Jeep needs to run at 1500 or 2000 rpm's on the freeway, it's not true. Your engine is still comfortable at 2500 and 3000 rpm's on the freeway. I have over 260,000 mi. on my original engine, have 4:88 gears, 35" tires and 50 miles one way to work. I drive at about 80 - 85 mph (on the flats). That puts me at about 2800 rpm (for those of you with the gear ratio calculators lastara )

Most of the people that have modified rigs and post on this board know what it means to "afford" to modify your Jeep. If you modify your Jeep and then piss and moan about the crappy mileage and poor streetability, then you obviously can't afford to modify your junk!!! You don't have to go straight to a 6" lift and 35" tires. There are many capable rigs out there on 31" tires and 2" of lift. These rigs maintain some of their fuel mileage and streetability while still being able to play weekend warrior. I and several people that have gone into the higher lifts and larger tires have decided that instead of pissing and moaning about the shortcomings of our modified rigs, we would purchase another car and use that as our daily driver, and save our junk for the trail. Still others use theirs as daily drivers. It's a choice, If you can't afford it don't do it!!! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Neil

[vegas_baja]

Speak it brother !!!

[cterlizzi]

Look... You have two choices... If you want to be at or near "stock" gear ratios, and you want to get good gas mileage... Sell your Jeep!!!! And buy a Geo Metro. If you want to own a Jeep and have a little fun... Stop worrying about mileage and staying "stock" and modify it as much as you can afford. Then drive it like you rented it!!! If you are looking at lifting or putting larger tires on your Jeep, then stock or near stock gears will not work!!! Let us not forget the aerodynamics of a Cherokee. It's a rolling brick people!!! The higher you lift that brick in the air and the more rolling resistance you put on by adding larger tires the worse this problem becomes. You either need more horsepower or lower gears to combat this. Also, as much as Jeep and the government (EPA) would like you to think that your Jeep needs to run at 1500 or 2000 rpm's on the freeway, it's not true. Your engine is still comfortable at 2500 and 3000 rpm's on the freeway. I have over 260,000 mi. on my original engine, have 4:88 gears, 35" tires and 50 miles one way to work. I drive at about 80 - 85 mph (on the flats). That puts me at about 2800 rpm (for those of you with the gear ratio calculators lastara )

Most of the people that have modified rigs and post on this board know what it means to "afford" to modify your Jeep. If you modify your Jeep and then piss and moan about the crappy mileage and poor streetability, then you obviously can't afford to modify your junk!!! You don't have to go straight to a 6" lift and 35" tires. There are many capable rigs out there on 31" tires and 2" of lift. These rigs maintain some of their fuel mileage and streetability while still being able to play weekend warrior. I and several people that have gone into the higher lifts and larger tires have decided that instead of pissing and moaning about the shortcomings of our modified rigs, we would purchase another car and use that as our daily driver, and save our junk for the trail. Still others use theirs as daily drivers. It's a choice, If you can't afford it don't do it!!! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Neil

I've been modifying cars for years and disagree with your philosophy nearly 100%. Yes, there is no way that a more trail capable Jeep will run as as quietly as "city Jeep", but there is still room to do things the right way and the wrong way... and just because this is not my daily driver it doesn't mean that the modifications cannot be done in an elegant way.

The best modifications are the ones where you have done as much as possible to the vehicle and it still feels, looks, handles, etc, as if it had been done by the factory and/or that's the way the factory should have done it in the first place.

Just my .02

[Neil]

I've been modifying cars for years and disagree with your philosophy nearly 100%. Yes, there is no way that a more trail capable Jeep will run as as quietly as "city Jeep", but there is still room to do things the right way and the wrong way... and just because this is not my daily driver it doesn't mean that the modifications cannot be done in an elegant way.

The best modifications are the ones where you have done as much as possible to the vehicle and it still feels, looks, handles, etc, as if it had been done by the factory and/or that's the way the factory should have done it in the first place.

Just my .02


Ok... I never said to half ass anything. Everything that I do to modify my Jeep is done to the highest standards. Whenever I build something for my junk, I always overbuild it. However, there is no way whatsoever that you or anybody else can say that you can build a Cherokee on 35" tires and 6.5" of lift that will handle exactly like a stock Jeep or have the same fuel economy as a stock vehicle. My junk handles great and drives great. I prefer to drive it over my Lexus. My wife makes me drive the Lexus because it gets twice the gas mileage. I don't think that you have a full understanding of my "philosophy". If you have any specific questions about my "philosophy" feel free to ask...

Neil

[ChuckD]

Ok... I never said to half ass anything.Everything that I do to modify my Jeep is done to the highest standards. Whenever I build something for my junk, I always overbuild it. However, there is no way whatsoever that you or anybody else can say that you can build a Cherokee on 35" tires and 6.5" of lift that will handle exactly like a stock Jeep or have the same fuel economy as a stock vehicle. My junk handles great and drives great. I prefer to drive it over my Lexus. My wife makes me drive the Lexus because it gets twice the gas mileage. I don't think that you have a full understanding of my "philosophy". If you have any specific questions about my "philosophy" feel free to ask...

Neil


:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

Anyway, Neil if you read his first post, you can read into it, that has to do more with money. If he sticks to 33's he'll do just fine.

[Neil]

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

Anyway, Neil if you read his first post, you can read into it, that has to do more with money. If he sticks to 33's he'll do just fine.


Thanks for your support Chuck!!! That's kind of what I was trying to get across, build what you can afford. And that "affording" modifications also means the cost after you do the modifications. You may get a income tax return and be able to afford 4:88's and 35's, and then not be able to afford the gas anymore after the modification. And Chuck, standards are subjective. :laugh3:

Neil

[cterlizzi]

Ok... I never said to half ass anything. Everything that I do to modify my Jeep is done to the highest standards. Whenever I build something for my junk, I always overbuild it. However, there is no way whatsoever that you or anybody else can say that you can build a Cherokee on 35" tires and 6.5" of lift that will handle exactly like a stock Jeep or have the same fuel economy as a stock vehicle. My junk handles great and drives great. I prefer to drive it over my Lexus. My wife makes me drive the Lexus because it gets twice the gas mileage. I don't think that you have a full understanding of my "philosophy". If you have any specific questions about my "philosophy" feel free to ask...

Neil

Then I apologize, because that's how it came across, as "half-assing" it and, like you, I want to do things to the highest standards.

I'm actually not worried about gas mileage at all, I don't drive a Jeep for mileage. Maybe somewhere down the road the original reason for the question got lost through the threads... I plan to drive this vehicle (as I always have) to off-road events throughout the country and therefore it's about what is the best trade-off setup between highway comfort (i.e. NVH) and off-road capability.

If I planned on towing the Jeep thousands of miles versus driving it, then I would just stick 38s and a 8" lift on it and be done with it... If all I really wanted was a highway vehicle with some "looks" to it, I would probably stick 31s and a 3" old man emu lift on it and be done with it.

I'm stuck between chosing 33s and 35s as the middle of the road between those two extremes. The gear ratio has more to do with the tire size than anything else... After reading everyone's replies, I'll probably end up going with 33s and 4.56s just in case I change my mind down the road and put in 35s

[cterlizzi]

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

Anyway, Neil if you read his first post, you can read into it, that has to do more with money. If he sticks to 33's he'll do just fine.

Ah, maybe that's what's confusing some people... Where I said, "it would help the budget"... no, it's not that I can't afford it, it's just that I hate to waste money and I'm always looking for the best bang for the buck whether it's a $100 or $10,000 part... And I start every project with a budget in my mind and try to stick to it... It's sort of a challenge to do the best you can with the least amount of money... although I've been known to blow through the budget the minute I see something that I really, really gotta have (sort of a left brain, right brain thing)

Heck, my wife would dearly wish that I stuck to my original budgets... Unfortunately I probably just spent more on Dinan headers and exhaust for my M5 then I'm about to spend for the entire XJ conversion... and don't get me started on the newly released SC kit for the M5, that's 25K and it'll probably cause a rift in the household if I even look at it more than once a week on the web... but it sure would be nice to have 600HP... Dang those german cars are expensive to work on...

[HaZakated]

I didn't read the whole thread; however, I am going to 4.56 because I know that eventually my Jeep will be a trail rig only. If I get 4.56 now with my 33"s and a lot of road driving, when I go to 35"+, I can wait a while before I go to 4.88+ gearing, and I will be ok.

[vegas_baja]

I didn't read the whole thread; however, I am going to 4.56 because I know that eventually my Jeep will be a trail rig only. If I get 4.56 now with my 33"s and a lot of road driving, when I go to 35"+, I can wait a while before I go to 4.88+ gearing, and I will be ok.


33" and 4.88 gears are a really good combo. I ran 5.14 with 35" on a dd prerunner for years with no problems. Do yourself a favor and read the whole thread and you'll see others that love 4.88 gears.

[XJ Eric]

I don't know about you guys, but the word "stroker" has had my interest ever since I got my Jeep.


I'm with you. I'm going to start looking for a HO to rebuild after my lift. A stroker would be awesome. A turbo may be an interesting way to go as well. may be a little cheaper to go that way too.

[Neil]

I'm with you. I'm going to start looking for a HO to rebuild after my lift. A stroker would be awesome. A turbo may be an interesting way to go as well. may be a little cheaper to go that way too.


If you plan on off roading it a lot a turbo won't do you any good. Off roading generally requires that you build power in the low RPM range. By the time a turbo spools up it's time to shift or let off the throttle. A turbo would be good to get you to the trail, but that's about it.

Neil

[cterlizzi]

If you plan on off roading it a lot a turbo won't do you any good. Off roading generally requires that you build power in the low RPM range. By the time a turbo spools up it's time to shift or let off the throttle. A turbo would be good to get you to the trail, but that's about it.

Neil

Agree 100%... I was thinking of a turbo myself, but that's for city and highway driving... you also have to be careful about the turbo spooling up on the trail if you get in a bit of jam and, as some often do, use the throttle to try to get you out of the mess... a sudden surge of power on the trail may do you more harm than good...