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tierod - steering link question(s)

RWKHausSupply

RWKHausSupply

NAXJA Forum User
Location
yorba linda, Cali
Well are issues doing a tierod like below with 3/8" tabs on a 1-1/2" x .25 wall DOM link with the Currie HD ends (or who can tell me what else to use thats cheaper adn avail at autozone in the 7/8"x18 thread) and then doing a hiem at the tabs up to a HD TRE at the piman.

I would also be inclined to box the tabs in slightly though to get even more strength from the Tierod mount.

I have also seen the PSC weldon block but that seems to be weaker with less weldable fac, and a single sheer?

Thanks
tierod.jpg
 
please move this to the Modified section. I was hoping for some input and there seems to be alot moore traffic over there?
 
Dude, relax.
At 8:00 PM a lot of us are involved with real life.
 
Captain Ron said:
Speaking for yourself, of course. :D

--ron
Click to expand...
What was I thinking?
naxja IS life. :D
 
Forum Moderator... said:

Advanced Fabrication and Engineering
If you are worried about your project still being called an XJ or MJ, this is the place for you. If you haven't ever had a slag burn or know the smell of burning flesh, tread lightly.
Click to expand...

So maybe I have this misinterperted, and feel free to correct me.

Dear god, why bother?

CAD. Instant design validation for the cluless masses.

Did you even make a clueless guess at your draglink/tierod geometry?

Single sheer. Ok, ummm, uhhh, you got me. :D


--ron


PS: I got one for you. Since you brought it up, show me your curve for that bracket at 1.25" @ 12 degrees on an 1.5" O.D. tube.

I'll tell you what, your on crack, that or you are a PHD in engineering. :D

PSS: 7/8-18? at Autozone? Really. This is certainly Mod Tech.
 
Ron, are you drunk-posting again? :cheers:
 
Captain Ron said:
So maybe I have this misinterperted, and feel free to correct me.

Dear god, why bother?

CAD. Instant design validation for the cluless masses.

Did you even make a clueless guess at your draglink/tierod geometry?

Single sheer. Ok, ummm, uhhh, you got me. :D


--ron


PS: I got one for you. Since you brought it up, show me your curve for that bracket at 1.25" @ 12 degrees on an 1.5" O.D. tube.

I'll tell you what, your on crack, that or you are a PHD in engineering. :D

PSS: 7/8-18? at Autozone? Really. This is certainly Mod Tech.
Click to expand...

You lost me in sooo many places there...

well that drawing was only for the crossover tierod. then the draglink would attach to it with a heim between the two tabs, hence double sheer.

As for geometry. Yes I did and with a stock pitman and a drop bracket at 6.5" lift it looks like it would be randomly close with only maybe trackbar bracket at axle work needed.

Curve? what stinking Curve? the tube may need a slight bend to clear stock axle bracketry but that would align the hiem mounting even better to the piman end.

PHD yeah I hate my head engineer here. I am a mechanical cad designer but with the mech know how I guess.

Isnt the stock 1ton TRE's 7/8 x 18thread? if so then why cant I get a number for a autozone replacement?
 
Captain Ron said:
Dear god, why bother?

.
Click to expand...

Forgot to answer this one..

Cause I can? Cause TRE's are under 40ea for 1tons that I found at autozone (dont know which to use though) and total cost would be about 175-200$ for a design similer to others that are 100-400$ more, but have the larger ends.

To me thats enough reasons..

PS yeah too many weld burns to list and holes that have never fully closed that I swear are still occupied by slag......
 
ROBERTK said:
Forgot to answer this one..

Cause I can? Cause TRE's are under 40ea for 1tons that I found at autozone (dont know which to use though) and total cost would be about 175-200$ for a design similer to others that are 100-400$ more, but have the larger ends.

To me thats enough reasons..

PS yeah too many weld burns to list and holes that have never fully closed that I swear are still occupied by slag......
Click to expand...

Robert, understand, nothing personal.

But it does fall into the category of approaching an inspector with a part, and not having any idea if it is in spec or not.

You should know before hand if your close, if your way off, if your just doing a crappy job and want someone to validate, or give you direction.

Your ends are not the problem from where my very uneducated butt sits. It is your steering geometry. Work it out on your own and come back with anything other than a mirrored bracket on 1.5" tube perpendicular to the Cl axis... using a 1 ton TRE joint!

This is your steering, dear God!

You have CAD at your disposal, make it work for you.

--ron
 
Captain Ron said:
Robert, understand, nothing personal.

But it does fall into the category of approaching an inspector with a part, and not having any idea if it is in spec or not.

You should know before hand if your close, if your way off, if your just doing a crappy job and want someone to validate, or give you direction.

Your ends are not the problem from where my very uneducated butt sits. It is your steering geometry. Work it out on your own and come back with anything other than a mirrored bracket on 1.5" tube perpendicular to the Cl axis... using a 1 ton TRE joint!

This is your steering, dear God!

You have CAD at your disposal, make it work for you.

--ron
Click to expand...


No sweat.. i am thick skinned and dont take much personal...

My main concern was the use of 1/4" tabs on a 1/4" tube and if anyone has done this in the steering system.

I am inclined to think that the rear lowers are under significantly more forces then the steering and the lower mounts are type 3/16 - 1/4" tabs and sometimes even not in pure direct loading in some triag. setups. So if I do this in a tierod system I just wanted to verify my thoughts/guesses (if you will).

the angles of the TB and DL are the least of my worries and thats easy to fix after a affordable high strength steering system is done.
 
I should probabily start a new thread to get all the readers inputs but...


anyone use the 1ton stuff like below on stock XJ (reamed) knuckles and run a straight tie rod? If so does it clear the axle bracketry and the diff cover when turning lock to lock? Or do I have to put a slight bend in the tie rod to clear it all?
Also how bad is the actual twisting or rolling of the TR when turning side to side?

TRE_kit.jpg
 
ROBERTK said:
anyone use the 1ton stuff like below on stock XJ (reamed) knuckles and run a straight tie rod? If so does it clear the axle bracketry and the diff cover when turning lock to lock? Or do I have to put a slight bend in the tie rod to clear it all?
Also how bad is the actual twisting or rolling of the TR when turning side to side?

TRE_kit.jpg
Click to expand...


I assume you mean over the knuckle with an inverted T steering setup? The tie rod will certainly not clear the anti-roll bar brackets and will likely hit the coil buckets and/or coils.
I would not run an inverted T with low steer, you will get quite a bit of rolling and the on center feel will be poor.
 
sorry should have clarified under the knuckle. It looks like others have used those under and with a 1.125x.188 4130 Tie rod its been fine? no clearance issues?
 
ROBERTK said:
I should probabily start a new thread to get all the readers inputs but...


anyone use the 1ton stuff like below on stock XJ (reamed) knuckles and run a straight tie rod? If so does it clear the axle bracketry and the diff cover when turning lock to lock? Or do I have to put a slight bend in the tie rod to clear it all?
Also how bad is the actual twisting or rolling of the TR when turning side to side?

TRE_kit.jpg
Click to expand...
That's exactly the setup I've been running. (and am selling, along with all my D30 stuff)
It has it's pluses and minuses. On the plus side, it's a very strong, reasonably cheap way of going to a high steer system on a D30.
The minuses are what Jes said; it does have clearence issues with the sway bar disco mount (it does just clear the TB and coil mounts though) and, like most inverted T setups, you get steering roll.
 
ROBERTK said:
sorry should have clarified under the knuckle. It looks like others have used those under and with a 1.125x.188 4130 Tie rod its been fine? no clearance issues?
Click to expand...
I know of a reasonably cheap way to find out. ;)
 
kid4lyf said:
That's exactly the setup I've been running. (and am selling, along with all my D30 stuff)
It has it's pluses and minuses. On the plus side, it's a very strong, reasonably cheap way of going to a high steer system on a D30.
The minuses are what Jes said; it does have clearence issues with the sway bar disco mount (it does just clear the TB and coil mounts though) and, like most inverted T setups, you get steering roll.
Click to expand...

Well how bad is the roll? Would it be less (I would have to think so) if its on the bottom of the knuckle and the end going to the tr from the pitman is a hiem and its mounted like my first drawing?
 
ROBERTK said:
Well how bad is the roll? Would it be less (I would have to think so) if its on the bottom of the knuckle and the end going to the tr from the pitman is a hiem and its mounted like my first drawing?
Click to expand...
Couldn't tell you if that would be better or not.
The steering roll really isn't that bad but it does exist and you can feel the dead spot when going back and forth.
I can still drive mine 70 mph on the highway with unbalanced 35" Creepy Crawlers, though.
 
what OD and thickness and material of tierod are you running?
 
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