SM465? bolt on

I have aquired a possible SM465 that will need some TLC. I have the auto setup now, but would like to use the granny box. How hard is it to bolt the tranny to the motor? It also is out of a 2wd truck, so the output would have to be changed to handle a drivers side drop D300 out of a CJ. How much trouble is this? :repair:

here is a some stuff to get your feet wet:
ttp://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sm465.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/465_to_amc.htm

also, there is no such thing as a drivers side drop D300, unless it has been modified. some have modified it themselves for $20, and DOE offers a kit to do it for something like $800.

IMO this is going to be a major project. Lets see If i can list the things you need of the top of my head.

1- You need Engine/Tranny Adapter, SM465 is a GM tranny it will NOT bolt up to a 4.0L bolt pattern. Advance adapters sells adapters for you application get ready to fork out some $$$ i think they run around $500

2- You need to modify your crossmember, this is starting to get into custom work. so cant quote you on this, (but bet its going to be a PITA)

3- You need an adapter to run SM465/D300 cuz they will not bolt up, Keep that wallet open they run ~350.

4- you need to either flip kit to run Driver side drop for the D300 (I got mine for about 560 shipped) Either get the kit or run standard pass drop, but you have to hack into the floor board, and get a front axle that is Pass drop. then you get into exahust routing /driveshaft issues.

IMHO I really dont think its worth it.

BTW: I will be running a flipped/ Clocked 300 in my XJ I opted to invest in the 600 kit then pay 300 for a SYE for an NP231.

The motor is already out. I blew it up. I have an other motor that is getting stroked and the pistons have to be custom made for around 8.3-8.5 CR, and Aries has quoted me $145 per slug. I have spent almost $3k on motor, including a T04B turbo. When the motor blew up, it cracked the collector of the stock headers. The cat and muffler had holes, so there is no exhaust in the truck now. I plan to build my own LA kit front and rear, and fabing up my own cross member. I have located a D60 and a Corp. 10 bolt from a '87 burban. 64" rear and 65.5" front. I still need to fab up my own front and rear bumpers, do a roll cage, and exo-skeliton. On board air using stock a/c compressor and a tank, and an on board welder.

The 10 bolt corp is a pass side drop axle.

In that case, go for it, I didnt know that you had your rig in peices.


BTW: If I where you I would scrap the 10 bolt and go with a HP44/ best balance of strengh/weight/clearance

the D60 is a nice setup for the rear

Well the person selling the D60 knows what it is and told me it has the stock locker in it. He doesn't know what the front is, just what it came from. He will sell the 60 for $200, @ that price, I can get the matching front for around $100. Can't beat the pair at that price. Before I got the 465, I had planned on putting the new exhaust on drivers side, and putting a pass side drop front drive line. Before the motor blew up, it would run at 210 in town and as soon as I got to the trail, it would hit 260+ in 5 minutes. Spent all kinds on cooling system, and that was as low as I could get it to go. My solution to this was to take off 3" lift and go to 8" LA and FW axles. Putting my exhaust on pass side to eliminate cross over on tranny, and putting an aux tranny cooler on hood and having vents pressed in. No more tranny fluid in radiator, to hell keep it cooler. Since Im stroking it, it will run hotter. But now I got a turbo and the 465. Turbo will go were stock air box was. Wifes jeep has no ABS (95) and mine does (93). I have a D35 with stock LSD and wife has 8.25 open. With the ABS on mine, it has the 297x axles in front. So swaping in my axles, and putting my ABS on her truck. Gives me the '95 brake upgrade with the new axles, her a lsd locker in rear, and I can move my ECU to where the ABS stuff was, so that I don't melt it with the Turbo. And a 68 mm TB to feed it. F&B
arty:

You'll be much happier keeping the auto, or using a modern OD 5 speed. I have an old 4 speed in my buggy (SM465) and if you want to take advantage of the turbo and the stroker with quick shifts, this is NOT the tranny for you.

Sounds like you've got the cash, so why not just buy an NV4500 and an Atlas? Fawking around with old shit is not fun, especially if you have more money than time.

BTW, 10 bolts are a waste of money. the 28 spline axles are basically the same strength as a 30. The only thing you get is the ability to run high steer.

CRASH

Cash is a limiting factor. In a year, i have been able to afford the motor piece by piece. I'm not building a racer, or have a need for quick shifts. I can't afford the 4500 or the atlas. I have purchased a Haynse manual for welding, and have some people that can work with me in some training. A class or two wont hurt. I do electrical work and know how to bend pipe. With use of some other peoples tools and buy a decent welder. My bigest prob is the $800 for the custom pistons. This is a big PIA, but since it is down, why take it apart 6-7 times to change things?
Was hoping to be done by end of this year, but I will be lucky if it is done by the end of next.

M. Lake said:

" Turbo will go were stock air box was. "
"I'm not building a racer, "

Click to expand...

:greensmok


BTW: You have to redo the tranny tunnel to run pass side drop xcase.

I am willing to do all work necessary to do the lift and motor/tranny to work, but I am not doing body work.


Figuring in the cost of the adaptors to put a GM (granny) tranny in with a D300 cost, along with the $300 for a matching set of axles, will change dramatically because the 10 bolt is a POS. Strong as a D30, but with longer axle shafts it wont work with 33"-35" 12" wide tires, or the increased HP. To avoid cutting the body, I need to find a HPRCD44 @ 65.5" wide. With the nearly non-existence of them, what would that compare to in cost, over body work? Limited cash flow.

Going low geared in the diff's, low geared and a lot of TQ. WT-HP ratio will be higher with all the add ons. Custom made bumpers, that act as skids, custom belly skids, inside and outside cage. (long time family friend was killed latly and had no cage, in tough truck comp.) On board air and welder. Front winch, and a mobile on 2" reciever, that can be used on rear, or on rocker panel skides. Spare parts. Tools. Two spare tires. Blah, blah, blah.

Are you dead set on a standard, or just looking for a tranny that will take it. The AMC V8's have the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 4.0. You could get an AMC turbo 400 that would bolt up, or any tranny run behind AMC. Don't get me wrong just because it bolts up doesn't mean you won't have other issues. CPS would be the biggest one then theres shifting cable and or clutch linkage, TPS I dont think would be an issue.
Good luck, and let us know what you do and what happens.
Chadc

M. Lake, sorry for the thread hijack but....... When you pulled your tranny lines off the radiator and went to just an aux. which one did you use and did you have a temp gauge in there? I'd appreciate an answer on the thread I started and I'll delete this one. Just thought I'd get your attention.

Sean

I have an ax-15 if your interested.

Havent done aux cooler yet. It was the origanal plan of atack for when I put the motor back together. And the plan was to not use the radiator at all. Didn't want any extra heat from anywhere. Which ment keeping the hot tranny fluid away from the cooling system. Which was also the point of keeping the exhaust to one side, to keep temp down on tranny, so that I can run the aux stand alone. I was also going to bolt it to the hood and have the vents pressed out towards the front and have a fan or two hooked up to temp sensor of some kind.

The point to the tranny swap is the extra umph the motor will put out. With the aw-4 rated at 320 FT/TQ, extra low gears, and big tires, it only takes onece of getting in a jam before peices of the tranny are all over the ground. I will have a good amount of power when the motor is done, and I want a driveline set up that can pull an 18 wheeler (well). An ounce of prevention saves a long walk home. With lift, and light trany and case, compaired to heavy, will chang my COG, hoping to make it less top heavy. Among other reasons. I have the trany, it is next to my Jeep.

sounds like a lot of work. Have you actually driven something with the granny box? Not trying to bash on your plans, it just isn't my idea of a nice shifting tranny. Just trying to make sure you know what those things are like.


good luck with your project,

JJ

I bougght on old '70s chebby truck, short bed with a 4 bolt main 350 bored .060 over, eddle brock high performance 4 barrle intake with a carter comp 650 4 barrle on board. Came with a SM465, and a 12 bolt rear. Since my friend blew the R&P out in the 12 bolt, I had to replace them, 8 months later, he blew it up again. I have drove this truck all over town and have drove it out of town. He has blown the clutch on it 3 time. I replaced it once. When shifting with out the clutch, it changes gears like a dream. For $200, I can do a complete rebuild on it with gaskets.

The motor went into my dads truck early '80s long bed cheyan. The motor out of his truck, I sold for $200. Bought truck for $400, and went halves with my dad. So the tranny was free. Once the rest of the little things are striped, the body with a bad case of cancer, will go to the scrap metal yard. Money back.

As for the 12 bolt, one of the carrier bolts fell out the first time and was shot out the back of the case. As a result, it groved through the Iron, and it went clean through. That was filled with JB weld. All the teeth became projectials, and put several hols in the cover. (again fixed with BFH & JB weld) I have yet to take off the cover and see what it looks like now. (not worth a rebuild I'm sure)

I may be risking ejection from for sayin this. But, WHY are you using an XJ for all this?

These gazillions of modifications (stroker, turbo, trans, t-case, axles, suspension, ...) just don't seem to make a whole lot of sense to me for an XJ.

Don't get me wrong, 1 ton running gear and howling big blocks give me goosebumps too. But, why not start out with something with an engine that bolts up to your SM465 and has a traditional ladder-type frame. Framerails are MUCH easier to modify to accomodate custom crossmembers for LA suspensions and the like. Throw on some valve spring body mounts and forget about structural metal fatigue forever. XJ unibodies are light and strong, but tend to start cracking after years of hard off-road flexing and jarring. Just grab a run-of-the-mill S-10 with the 4.3L and go from there. The tranny "project" basically becomes a bolt on. Then the sky is the limit for suspension setups. Coil overs with long arms, or just 4 leaf springs are both pretty easy to set up with a straight frame.

If you are determined to have the baddest XJ ever, I say "To Each His Own". But I'll bet that even after you spend countless hours and dollars on this rig, it won't really be appreciably better off or especially on the road than rig with an off-the-shelf LA lift kit and some gears and lockers.

Just fix the XJ and sell the thing. Minimize your losses and start fresh.

In december it will be paid for. I cant afford a new project, and blow off the funds pumped into this project. So far, I can just put a motor in my jeep and drive it. Plus shocks. And exhaust (complete) But then all the effort is shot. I have drove this thing with a 3" lift for 2 years, hard, and it does not go in some places I would like to go. My 30 and 35C will only hold up to so much, with the parts already collect to do an 8" lift and 35" tires. It is a 2 door and am ready to hack my fenders, flares are gone. To turn back now is like buying a Bently, and never picking it up.

DeadEyeJ said:

Just fix the XJ and sell the thing. Minimize your losses and start fresh.

Click to expand...

He is kinda right , Its not really worth putting all this into a Unibody rig, If you want to build a core rig, Bulid something that has a ladder frame. You can sell you XJ and buy a S-10 for cheap, you wont loose that much of money,

All im saying is after al said and done, after everything is finished, you could of put the same amount of work (or even less with a ladder frame) and came out with potentially better rig. doing any heavy drivetrain mods other than axle swaps are a waiste of time in my book, but whatever floats your boat,



PS. Look at my sig below Im building a rig for the heavy trails (rig will be based on 37s running RC44/60 d300 caged/reinforced). But im determined to have the Baddest XJ in town, just to be different. everybody around here has their poser TJs on longarms, im building a grocery getter that can outperform so im set on the XJ platform

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_300.htm
The Jeep 300 is a pass side drop case!