Moving Front Axle Forward

[98XJSport]

I have a 98 XJ on about 4.5" of lift. Im getting ready to trim for 33s, and want to move my axle forward so I won't have to trim the back of the fender as much. I know I need longer control arms to do this, my question is do I need both longer uppers and lowers, or just one or the other?

Thanks
Ryan

[mack]

yes, both.

[98XJSport]

Ok, thats what I thought but had to be sure before I rip into it. Thanks

[lia]

which one of the many ajustable upper & lower control arms are the best

[xjaddiction]

RE, JKS CA's.

[lia]

do you have website info

[jrsxj98]

http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV3/replacementarms.asp

[bj-666]

incase you didnt' know...

i assume you are using stock control arms which when a lift is installed move the axle backward in the normal arc of the control arms. If you plan to use a longer arm in the stock location as your suspension compresses it will move the axle forward and may cause your tires to rub on the front trim/fender. you should cycle the suspension and see if you have enough room forward at full compression to move the axle the desired amount fwd.

hope this helps

[98XJSport]

I think I will, I rub in the back with 31s no trimming when flexed just a bit, and not even close in the front. Plus I want to get a bumper that shouldn't interfere with my wheels unlike the stock wrap-around endcaps. And trimming in the front should definately be easier than the rear.

[lia]

johnny joints or rubber
bushings

[GirlScout1]

FYI have you considered long arms? When you price adjustable uppers ($180 ish), lowers($200ish), and drop brackets($350ish) you are around what it would cost for long arms. Even more expensive than some. Also if you paln on going bigger then why not do it now? You can get a long arm set up from $400-$900, just depends on what you like.

You can do just adjustable arms but your ride quality will suck with the geometry wrong. I was sitting at about the same lift with adjustable uppers and lowers and it was still a harsh ride. I would really consider long arms for the moeny and time it takes to do the other version. That's my two pennies.

-b

[T&A-XJ]

johnny joints or rubber
bushings

RE superflex joints, Currie JJs are the norm for adjustable CAs. If you use rubber on both ends they have a tendency to loosen the thread's jam nut and wear on the threads.
JKS uses rubber on both ends for a more dampened ride and a closer tolerance thread to allow articulation and adjustability. A few that are willing to pay the price have been very happy with them, and have lasted several years without threads loosening bushings wearing out ect.

[mg614]

I thought when you bought a 4.5 RE (for example) you received new, longer CA's. Doesn't this compensate for suspension angles? I know that most of the RE lifts turn out to be more than the height expected, but it seems common to have to go long arm or at least buy drop brackets. What's up with that?

[cruizer8525]

Yes JKSMfg.com Great product. Very durable adjustable control arms. JP magazine used them in the rear of their "no lift TJ" to move the rear axle rearward to avoid over triming the front of the rear fender. They only used lower arms however. Good luck.

[JLane99XJ]

on the interweb there is a chart that lists a specific upper and lower control arms length for lifted XJs starting from stock height to 10" of lift..

try a google search: control arm length chart (etc)

[Dirk Pitt]

You know, if you move the axle very far forward you are going to open up a can of worms with the steering linkage, trac bar, sway bar mounts, driveshaft length, etc.

HTH

How far are you talking here?

[boise49ers]

Another question if that is OK.

I'm uninstalling my Trailmaster drop brackets. I'm at 4.75" inches in the front and a little over 4.5" in the rear. The reason I'm taking them off is a bang bad on rocks even after shaving about 75" off the drop. I am putting in terraflex adjustable LCAs in place of my Daystar LCAs in the stock brackets.
My first question is at 4.75" in the front , am I still good to run my Factory UCAs ? I know a few people who run stock at this height. I just never asked how it handles. I have real stiff 4" coils in the front so will this help keep me from wandering after I take off the drops. It is a daily driver, but short trips to the store and 1 mile to work means it doesn't have to have wonderful street manners. I will be driving Hi-ways to trails though
Also after the trailmaster install is there anything I will run into going back to regular brackets that I will have to deal with. I didn't put the lift on so I'm not sure what mods they did for install. RE and Trailmaster Drops are supposed to be the same from what I have heard.

Thanks !

[Dirk Pitt]

Another question if that is OK.

I'm uninstalling my Trailmaster drop brackets. I'm at 4.75" inches in the front and a little over 4.5" in the rear. The reason I'm taking them off is a bang bad on rocks even after shaving about 75" off the drop. I am putting in terraflex adjustable LCAs in place of my Daystar LCAs in the stock brackets.
My first question is at 4.75" in the front , am I still good to run my Factory UCAs ? I know a few people who run stock at this height. I just never asked how it handles. I have real stiff 4" coils in the front so will this help keep me from wandering after I take off the drops. It is a daily driver, but short trips to the store and 1 mile to work means it doesn't have to have wonderful street manners. I will be driving Hi-ways to trails though
Also after the trailmaster install is there anything I will run into going back to regular brackets that I will have to deal with. I didn't put the lift on so I'm not sure what mods they did for install. RE and Trailmaster Drops are supposed to be the same from what I have heard.

Thanks !

At that height you will have to lengthen the adj. LCAs to keep the tires off the rear of the fender opening. When you do that however, you are going to point the pinion down if you keep the stock uppers. You "may" either get vibes and/or wear out driveshaft u-joints with the pinion angle out of whack like that.

HTH

[boise49ers]

At that height you will have to lengthen the adj. LCAs to keep the tires off the rear of the fender opening. When you do that however, you are going to point the pinion down if you keep the stock uppers. You "may" either get vibes and/or wear out driveshaft u-joints with the pinion angle out of whack like that.

HTH
Do you know if the ZJ arms or YJ arms are longer ? If not I guess I go adjustables. Thanks

[Zebaru]

Back to the original question... I am running about 2.5" of lift on RE SF fixed lowers and SF adjustable uppers. With 31" All Terrains, I rub the front of the inner fender while flexing, but do not rub anywhere else up front. I get up into the fender enough that the plastic liner is worn through and the metal is shined up a bit. A little extra bumpstop (extended about 1" currently), and that would go away.

http://www.reno4x4.com//gallery/files/2/0/sb22.jpg

Dirk Pitt has a good point about interference - my JKS track bar used to rub the diff cover a good bit during even moderate wheeling. I had to reshape the cover to avoid the interference. A stock bar might not have the problem?

Travis

[cLAYH]

The stock arms are not very strong and while you may be able to "get away with it for awhile" eventually you will bend them as they are now the weak link.

[boise49ers]

Those are actually designed to bend. If they didn't they would snap off the brackets. At least that is what I have been told. That is why he told me to use adjustable so they flex instead of putting all the force on the brackets. He builds Baja Racers in Las Vegas. I have horseshoed some LCA's already rock crawling.

[98XJSport]

I was just looking at picking up some that are sold as being the right length for my amount of lift. I don't want to move it way forward in the wheelwell, I just want to re-center it, or maybe slightly forward then center at worst. Just sick of it hitting the back of the wheelwell at full turn and slight flex. Plus I would rather trim the bumper endcap (its a 98) than way back into the rear of the fender.

[Dirk Pitt]

Those are actually designed to bend. If they didn't they would snap off the brackets. At least that is what I have been told. That is why he told me to use adjustable so they flex instead of putting all the force on the brackets. He builds Baja Racers in Las Vegas. I have horseshoed some LCA's already rock crawling.

The rubber bushings are what is supposed to handle the torsion placed on the arm while flexing, however the stock arm probably does too.

Ideally, you should run a JJ or RE superflex joint or heim at least on one end to account for the "twist" of the arm while flexing to reduce stress on the mounts and rubber bushings.

[98XJSport]

Will non adjustable arms (assuming they are the correct length) give me problems when it comes time to re-align the front?

[boise49ers]

The rubber bushings are what is supposed to handle the torsion placed on the arm while flexing, however the stock arm probably does too.

Ideally, you should run a JJ or RE superflex joint or heim at least on one end to account for the "twist" of the arm while flexing to reduce stress on the mounts and rubber bushings.
I think the ones he is sending me are Teraflex lowers. How much are the JJ uppers ?
RE wants to much for the same product everyone else sells for cheaper.
Cya !
Thanks

[little red cheroke]

FYI have you considered long arms? When you price adjustable uppers ($180 ish), lowers($200ish), and drop brackets($350ish) you are around what it would cost for long arms. Even more expensive than some. Also if you paln on going bigger then why not do it now? You can get a long arm set up from $400-$900, just depends on what you like.

You can do just adjustable arms but your ride quality will suck with the geometry wrong. I was sitting at about the same lift with adjustable uppers and lowers and it was still a harsh ride. I would really consider long arms for the moeny and time it takes to do the other version. That's my two pennies.

-b

where can i get a long arm set up for $400 the cheapest ive seen is the set up from rustys and its like $790 i think

[Dirk Pitt]

where can i get a long arm set up for $400 the cheapest ive seen is the set up from rustys and its like $790 i think

Check the vendor forum for Rock Krawler products.