View Full Version : Drive shaft binding...
Jeffro600
January 2nd, 2006, 20:06
Alrighty...im getting some knocking/thumping noises coming from my front axle ONLY when in 4WD. At first, i was pointing fingers at my locker as it sounds vaguely familiar to it ratcheting. Ive pulled it apart half a dozen times and confirmed its working properly...which it is, so that eliminates that possible cause.
The next thing i was thinking, is the front driveshaft. When i did my 4.5 RE lift is when the noises really started...im thinking the pinion angle isnt pointed up enough and is causing some sort of binding somewhere in the front shaft. Is there anyway to adjust it up more despite having fixed length upper and lower control arms(RE Superflex)?? Any other possible ideas what might be causing the noises?
Another question is...since this is a non-disconnecting axle, shouldnt i be hearing these noises when in 2WD too??
Jeffro600
January 3rd, 2006, 07:13
Bueller?? Anyone??
xjbubba
January 3rd, 2006, 07:53
Need to know what front drive shaft you have and exactly when you experience your "knocking" symptoms.
Jeffro600
January 3rd, 2006, 08:12
Need to know what front drive shaft you have and exactly when you experience your "knocking" symptoms.
AX-15 NP231, stock front driveshaft...it seems to be more pronounced upon heavy acceleration as the body rolls more torwards the back.
xjbubba
January 3rd, 2006, 12:55
Since you have the NV231, I assume you have double car- den type front drive shaft (looks like two u-joints back-to-back at the transfer case). I've never experienced binding on my front double car-den drive shaft, and I have a 6" lift, with the diff at 6* caster (basically stock angles). Check for contact between the drive shaft and the exhaust header pipe. I have experienced contact there, but it was due to busted motor mounts, and only occurred when pushing hard up a steep bank.
Cherokee91Red
January 3rd, 2006, 13:06
Have u checked the shaft u-joints? If they're dried out they can seize.
Jeffro600
January 4th, 2006, 08:59
Have u checked the shaft u-joints? If they're dried out they can seize.
Ujoints have all been pulled apart and none look to be excessivly worn and none of them were dry.
So is there no way to adjust pinion without adjustable control arms?
xjbubba
January 4th, 2006, 16:16
Ways to adjust pinion angle are (1) adjustable upper control arms and (2) cut inner "c"s loose from tubes, rotate center section up to desired angle, then re weld inner "c"s. You May be able to rotate the pinion up by removing any LCA shims located inside LCA mounts on frame; however, this will reduce caster angle--not good!
Wezil
January 4th, 2006, 18:00
check the ball/socket in the middle of the double cardon I had the same problem ,sounded like the diff gears were stripped or the tcase chain was jumping and low and behold (after an unnesesary diff service and t-case reseal) the stupid ball/socket in the double cardon was binding.
VegasAnthony
January 4th, 2006, 18:05
your T case chain is stretched out
replace and your noises will be gone
elephantrider1
January 5th, 2006, 14:50
Im going through the same thing. Mine was poping and really did it loud in 4wheel lo.I replaced the ujoints. Still did it. Finally cracked my t-case in the front from binding I guess. Just put the new t-case in same damn noise even in 2 wheel. I take the front drive shaft out and it quits. I have a 3 inch rough country 2 inch spacers,rustys upper and lower control arms,adjustable tracbar. So im driving with no front shaft now till i can check out the prob but im guessing pinion angle has to be almost.
tealcherokee
January 5th, 2006, 15:09
a) cutting the inner c's off and rotating them wont do anything but adjust caster....SPOBI!!!!
b) i doubt theres any shims in there, ive done about 30 alignments on xjs, never seen one w/ shims, never had to put shims in
c) im going to have to agree that its the tcase chain
Wezil
January 5th, 2006, 15:15
Im going through the same thing. Mine was poping and really did it loud in 4wheel lo.I replaced the ujoints. Still did it. Finally cracked my t-case in the front from binding I guess. Just put the new t-case in same damn noise even in 2 wheel. I take the front drive shaft out and it quits. I have a 3 inch rough country 2 inch spacers,rustys upper and lower control arms,adjustable tracbar. So im driving with no front shaft now till i can check out the prob but im guessing pinion angle has to be almost.
Im telling you guys It,s the carden joint check it out I chased my tail forever. Just buy a driveshaft from a junkyard.
Jeffro600
January 5th, 2006, 15:17
Carden joint...t-case chain...
Two more things on my list to check...thanks guys!
Also, how exactly do i tell if the said parts are worn? Is there a specific way to tell if the chain is stretched or if the carden joint is worn? I can understand the cardan joint causing the noise...but how would the t-case chain be causing it when it ONLY does it in 4WD?
elephantrider1
January 5th, 2006, 15:36
I put new ujoints in my cardigon joint and i now have a new t-case so it cant be either of those and a t-case with a busted case cracked in the front about 6 inches all fluid came out but t-case still worked drove it on the trailer
VegasAnthony
January 5th, 2006, 15:47
Carden joint...t-case chain...
Two more things on my list to check...thanks guys!
Also, how exactly do i tell if the said parts are worn? Is there a specific way to tell if the chain is stretched or if the carden joint is worn? I can understand the cardan joint causing the noise...but how would the t-case chain be causing it when it ONLY does it in 2WD?
whoaa there..
first post you said it was in 4 wd only now its 2wd only
replace the front d shaft first see if that works..
only way to tell if the its the tcase chain is to remove it..and compare it to a new one..you should prolly replace it since youi will be in there any way..but if funds are tight you can see the difrence in lenght.. mine was prolly 1/2 longer when I compared them side to side..If its longer then replace it with the new one if it seems to be the same then just return the one you bought.. I IIRC they are about $130 new
or find someone with a spare tcase chain??
Jeffro600
January 5th, 2006, 15:54
whoaa there..
first post you said it was in 4 wd only now its 2wd only
replace the front d shaft first see if that works..
only way to tell if the its the tcase chain is to remove it..and compare it to a new one..you should prolly replace it since youi will be in there any way..but if funds are tight you can see the difrence in lenght.. mine was prolly 1/2 longer when I compared them side to side..If its longer then replace it with the new one if it seems to be the same then just return the one you bought.. I IIRC they are about $130 new
or find someone with a spare tcase chain??
My bad...i ment 4WD ONLY!! :)
tealcherokee
January 5th, 2006, 20:57
yeah, def the chain, either, get a new chain, or depending on miles/condition of the case, get a complete rebuilt or a jy case thats newer (could still need a chain tho, but, my 231 housing was cracked....
elephantrider1
January 7th, 2006, 16:42
k put my driveshaft back in today no way is it the pinion angle so i took it out stated to take the cv joint apart and realized that the ball and centering yoke were very screwed so i guess you guys where correct.It has been bad for so long it screwed my driveshaft completely so now im on the look out for on out of a 4 cyl 5 speed anybody know where i could get one pref used cause cheaper im a poor boy
VegasAnthony
January 7th, 2006, 17:55
www.car-part.com
suthernoutlaw
January 7th, 2006, 22:21
ive been building t-cases for years now, transmission shop, most people dont understand its not the chain that stretches, its the bearings in the case, it puts slack in the chain, chains are rarely bad, u can replace the chain and it will stop fer a while but what u need if its ur t-case i would recommend bearings....
Jeffro600
January 8th, 2006, 14:05
Well i pulled the front shaft out and drove it around in 2 and 4WD...no clunking/binding noises and it was nice and quiet, so i think that eliminates any possibilities that its in the T-case for the most part.
Its got to be binding somewhere on the yolk or a bad u- or cardan joint....visually, i dont see anything wrong, but im going to replace the joints this week and see if that helps.
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