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What all do I need to get the brakes working on an 8.8 in my '99 XJ?

ZachMan

ZachMan

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Memorial Lifetime Member
Location
Birmingham, AL
Well as with alot of people I have to make a decision and well I was down to selling my 8.8 for $175 and still no offers so I guess I am keeping it and using it later. Well I will be regearing in January for 33s or maybe 35s or atleats eventually 35s. Anyways I now may be considering putting the 8.8 in an chunking the 8.25 because I already need a master install kit for it (bad pinion bearings) and 4.56s, plus I hate to spend $$ on a rear detriot, but if I am not locked whats the point of 33s or 35s?

So I can get the axle brakets I need and the adapter for the driveshaft. My main worry is about how to get the discs working and what master cylinder to use and how to do it all? I *think* some have used a van MC or a Grand Cherokee MC, but not sure. Also what about brake lines/ hard lines etc?

I may just get everything set up to be bolted in and then pay my local offoroad shop to do the actually install and hooking up of the brakes, I'd still be way better off than dumping $300-$1000 in my 8.25...I think.
 
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Just bolt it up. All your current brake stuff, including the master cylinder, will be fine.
Just find a place on the axle to mount the XJ rear brake line "T" and run hard lines to the rubber caliper lines.
It's that easy.
The only thing that takes a little work is the e-brake lines. I have an auto and live without it.
Also, you can't use your ABS with an 8.8.
 
kid4lyf said:
Just bolt it up. All your current brake stuff, including the master cylinder, will be fine.
Just find a place on the axle to mount the XJ rear brake line "T" and run hard lines to the rubber caliper lines.
It's that easy.
The only thing that takes a little work is the e-brake lines. I have an auto and live without it.
Also, you can't use your ABS with an 8.8.
Click to expand...

You run this setup? Just wondering its the very firstime I've heard you can just bolt it up. So the stock XJ MC does work fine wit h4 wheel discs?

I have a '99 with an 8.25 so no ABS.
 
The brakes are easy, a couple of hard lines to a T and soft line (existing) to the frame lines. Basic stuff. Your master will run it (my '99 runs Explorer discs with ease).

Ebrakes are like plumbing a bicycle with cables, simple stuff. Took me all of half an hour to plumb in total and an additional half hour to modify the adjuster. Lokar makes a universal kit and there is a good write up on Naxja here:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14359&page=2&pp=15&highlight=explorer
 
ZachMan said:
You run this setup? Just wondering its the very firstime I've heard you can just bolt it up. So the stock XJ MC does work fine wit h4 wheel discs?

I have a '99 with an 8.25 so no ABS.
Click to expand...
Yup, on my '99.
Rear Explorer calipers have very small pistons so you don't need to push additional fluid to them.
Ditto, on gcurtis' comments. The e-brake isn't a problem, just takes a little thought and common sense to make it work. I just never used mine before, figured I wouldn't need it now so didn't bother.
 
kid4lyf said:
Yup, on my '99.
Rear Explorer calipers have very small pistons so you don't need to push additional fluid to them.
Ditto, on gcurtis' comments. The e-brake isn't a problem, just takes a little thought and common sense to make it work. I just never used mine before, figured I wouldn't need it now so didn't bother.
Click to expand...

The '99 will also run bigger calipers. There are plenty on here running the WJ conversion using that master AND rear discs. I'll be one of them in about three days. Go for it and split the perceived saving between kid4lyf and I. ;)

Pulling ABS is easy on the later models. All it takes is 1... 2... 3 Done. Really, that simple. Open the hood, pull a sensor and close the hood. Open the door and access the fuse box, pull a fuse and done. No more ABS and no more light and brakes work normally. Search is your friend.
 
LOL, thanks guys I've just decided to go for it.

So...the only thing I ma unclear on is what do I need, I know you guys mention hard lines and all, will I need new ones?

The list:

- 1998 Exploder 8.8 pretty bad rusty
- Master install kit
- new discs, new calipers and pads and new studs
- 4.56s
- detroit
- spring perches and shock mounts
- flange adapter for driveshaft
- wheel spacers
- wire brush to scrap all the rust off
- paint

So what all do I have to add? is there anything else on the actual axle I may need to look at since its rusty or will a master install kit cover it? Also the brake shields are bent all up, do I need them? The axle still has hard lines on it also.
 
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Also, there is this chunk of metal between the side of the pumkin and axle tube, it has some sort of roller on it. Can I cut all this off the axle?
 
Ditto what these guys are saying. I'm using the stock master cylinder in my 98 with the 8.8. I love the braking power!
 
ZachMan said:
LOL, thanks guys I've just decided to go for it.

So...the only thing I ma unclear on is what do I need, I know you guys mention hard lines and all, will I need new ones?

Also the brake shields are bent all up, do I need them?
Click to expand...

Hard lines - do yourself a favor and spend the $2 on the hard lines. Reuse the existing T. I think you need a 30" and 18" to make it work with bends, but take a measurement and go to the local auto parts store. Get the ones that are preflared with nuts and 3/16" IIRC, you'll be happier in the long run. I had a friend who skipped this step and we ended up repairing his lines in the middle of the desert in the middle of the night about 60 miles from anywhere. Sucked arse and ruined a trip because he was too cheap to spend $2 and do it right.

You don't "need" brake sheilds and I'm not running them on the front. The do serve a purpose, however, which is keeping crap out of your calipers in the rotation of the wheel. Your call.
 
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gcurtis said:
Pulling ABS is easy on the later models. All it takes is 1... 2... 3 Done. Really, that simple. Open the hood, pull a sensor and close the hood. Open the door and access the fuse box, pull a fuse and done. No more ABS and no more light and brakes work normally. Search is your friend.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how insurance works for you guys, but up here if we remove the fuse from the ABS, and you get into an accident, and the insurance company notices no ABS fuse...you get screwed. I'd recommend putting a blown fuse in where the ABS fuse is, then you can claim you didn't know the fuse was blown. HTH
 
jeo said:
I'm not sure how insurance works for you guys, but up here if we remove the fuse from the ABS, and you get into an accident, and the insurance company notices no ABS fuse...you get screwed. I'd recommend putting a blown fuse in where the ABS fuse is, then you can claim you didn't know the fuse was blown. HTH
Click to expand...

Yeha, but 80% of all 97+ XJ have 8.25s = no ABS from the factory so it won't mean a thing to me.
 
ZachMan said:
Yeha, but 80% of all 97+ XJ have 8.25s = no ABS from the factory so it won't mean a thing to me.
Click to expand...
It was meant as more of a heads up to everyone who was reading a previous post from gcurtis, which I quoted, which mentioned the removal of the ABS fuse.
 
jeo said:
It was meant as more of a heads up to everyone who was reading a previous post from gcurtis, which I quoted, which mentioned the removal of the ABS fuse.
Click to expand...

Down here I've never had an estimator check an ABS fuse, a dome light fuse, a stereo fuse, or any other fuse for that matter (I haven't even mentioned tone rings or ABS wiring on a different axle). Most accidents are a pretty clear case of right and wrong, not ABS or not, and estimators check body, frame or other damage and try to crank the body shops down in price.

Must be a Nocal/Socal thing. ;)
 
sorry for the thread hi-jack.

I have the same axle for my 90 xj and I thought I would need a newer master cylinder and brake booster, or would mine work fine for the rear disks?
 
gcurtis said:
Down here I've never had an estimator check an ABS fuse, a dome light fuse, a stereo fuse, or any other fuse for that matter (I haven't even mentioned tone rings or ABS wiring on a different axle). Most accidents are a pretty clear case of right and wrong, not ABS or not, and estimators check body, frame or other damage and try to crank the body shops down in price.

Must be a Nocal/Socal thing. ;)
Click to expand...
Up here ABS plays a huge factor. Canada has snow and ice, which causes traction difficulties (in case you didn't know, being from Nocal/Socal) and the ABS system is checked in case of accident.
Must be a Canadian thing. ;)
 
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