What size socket?? (Hub Bolt)

[XJ4PINOY]

Hey all! I'm trying for the 2nd time to put in my front locker. I loosened everything up and took off the caliper and rotor and took off the 4 bolts on the back. The shaft wouldn't budge. So i'm gonna try it another way by pulling off the axle/hub bolt and using a big 50 lb gear puller to get it out. Question is, what size socket am I needing to pull the axle/hub bolt off? It's an 88 XJ with a 30 up front.


Thanks!

[Rev Den]

1st..don't use a puller.
2nd.. after loosening the 3 bolts on the back of the hub, tap them lightly with a hammer, yu will find that the hub walks right out. When the hub comes off, the axle will come with it. If you have a disconnect front axle (88, I think you do) don't forget to pull the disconnect motor and shift fork out to gain access the the inner shaft.

[erikrs301]

I believe the big nut is 36mm. You do not have to remove it to pull the hub assembly and shaft though. If you've pulled the three 12pt bolts that hold the hub assembly to the knuckly, the hub assembly will come off with the axle shafts. Mine were all frozen with rust so some PB Blaster and BFH and big cisel work to pry the hub assembly from the knuckle.

...lotsa of anti seize on the re-install too.

[Woody at work]

Ummm, there are FIVE bolts to free up (2-E16 Torx on the caliper and 3-13mm 12 pt on the hub)

I got three longer grade 8 bolts (12mm x 1.75 pitch x 100mm long) thread those into the hub and whack at those.

Pulling on the hub w/o the axle nut on there may damage the bearings or pull it apart... OTOH swapping axle UJs is more fun with the hub off.

FWIW the axle nut is 36mm, and it likes 175 lb-ft of torque IIRC.

[Woody at work]

Not bad response time guys! :D

[XJ4PINOY]

Dang, that was quick thanks guys. I know they say that after the bolts are loose it should just slide right out well it doesn't. I removed all the bolts in the back that hold it and also the caliper and rotor. It won't budge. I even banged the hell out of it. This was on the passenger side. I didn't even try the driver's side. I did everything that was said, minus the longer bolts. Am I missing something?

[erikrs301]

It's probably frozen with rust. I went to Home Depot and got a big-ass chisel. I beat that with a big f'n hammer between the hub assembly and knuckle and it eventually moved. It was a total bitch of a job but it woked. ;)

[Rev Den]

Yes, you are missing something. Do like Woody said, get replacement bolts, thread them in part way, and bang on those, NOT the hub. Use PB blaster on the joint between the hub and knuckle. Personnaly I would pass on the chisel, but thats just me.

Rev

[IntrepidXJ]

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/2001/02_feb/bearing/

[BrokenXJ]

If you have a 5 ton hub puller, use it. The hell with this whacking bolts from the backside. Put hub-puller on it and crank it up. Then whack the knuckle and the hub with hammer to vibrate it. Tighten a little more and whack it again.

Those hubs are pressed together with 100 tons of force, if your 5 ton hub puller separates it, the hub was spent anyway.

[4ward]

Not a bad writeup, but it's not really descriptive either for when things are frozen. The chisel is an excellent way to go. I've also sat there and whacked away at the flange when I had nothing else to use (working on friends junk at his house without my tools). Every method talked about in this thread will work. Just remember that once you've finally gotten it apart to put anti sieze on EVERYTHING before you put it back together. It's definately a 6 pack job with frozen in hubs. The next time you do it, it'll only be a 1 beer job.

Sean

[XJ4PINOY]

Thanks guys. One other question.....
Will I have to reset the back lash??

[4ward]

As long as it isn't a full case locker you won't.

[XJ4PINOY]

Originally posted by OneTonXJ
As long as it isn't a full case locker you won't.

It's a lock-right. Thanks!

[KarmirXJ]

yes, the big nut with a cotter pin is 36mm...