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Brake problem

S

skiescape2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver
Ok, I have a 90 XJ with the dreaded Bendix ABS. I have searched high and low for a detailed parts list to swap to the 96 non-ABS system, but I cant find one. I have found the write up that Bones did, but it doesnt list each part that I would need to pick up.

I have taken the jeep to the dealer hoping to have it fixed for free by them, but they said that I got moisture underneath my back seat and around the computer and one of the pins was coroded. So they told me that it would cost $1200 just to start, that they did not know what else was wrong beyond that. So I decided to swap out with a newer system.

My first question is do you know where there is a list of the parts that I would need to do this swap?

And my second question is do I need to replace the rear brakes too, or can I just leave the ones that are on there now on?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
skiescape2 said:
Ok, I have a 90 XJ with the dreaded Bendix ABS. I have searched high and low for a detailed parts list to swap to the 96 non-ABS system, but I cant find one. I have found the write up that Bones did, but it doesnt list each part that I would need to pick up.

I have taken the jeep to the dealer hoping to have it fixed for free by them, but they said that I got moisture underneath my back seat and around the computer and one of the pins was coroded. So they told me that it would cost $1200 just to start, that they did not know what else was wrong beyond that. So I decided to swap out with a newer system.

My first question is do you know where there is a list of the parts that I would need to do this swap?

And my second question is do I need to replace the rear brakes too, or can I just leave the ones that are on there now on?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
The swap is pretty straightforward. You need to change out any of the master cylinder related parts from an equivalent vehicle of the same year without ABS.

So.....that means the following:
1. master cylinder
2. power brake booster
3. proportioning valve

Naturally, all of these things need to be connected by the appropriate hard brake lines. Getting these from the dealer is impossible (I don't think they are available any longer), so you have to make them yourself by buying pre-flared sections from the local auto parts store, and cutting, bending, and flaring them to fit the application. You will need to about 5 new lines, IIRC.

If you have never flared brake tubing before, buy/rent a flaring tool, and practice a few times on the lines you cut off for the ABS system before you start on the ones you intend to put in the machine.

It's not hard, just tedious..............
 
AZ Jeff said:
Naturally, all of these things need to be connected by the appropriate hard brake lines. Getting these from the dealer is impossible (I don't think they are available any longer), so you have to make them yourself by buying pre-flared sections from the local auto parts store, and cutting, bending, and flaring them to fit the application. You will need to about 5 new lines, IIRC
Click to expand...

Cant I just get these off of a jeep from the junkyard?
 
skiescape2 said:
Ok, I have a 90 XJ with the dreaded Bendix ABS.I have taken the jeep to the dealer hoping to have it fixed for free by them,/QUOTE]
I want some of what youve been smokin!
Click to expand...
 
check out the write up for the 96 booster swap on madxj.com... With the bendix abs, after removing half of the system.. You will need to cut and flare three lines, but most of the fittings are on the existing plumbing for the brakes... I have done two so far and pretty simple.... OR .... check out the write up that MJR did at 4x4wire.com on cherokee brake upgrades...
 
skiescape2 said:
Cant I just get these off of a jeep from the junkyard?
Click to expand...
In theory,you could. In practice, here is the problem with doing that:

1. The hard lines to the front wheels are different lengths and bends on an ABS equipped vehicle of your year. That means, that, for a "drop in" installation, you would need the hard lines all the way out to the front wheel wells. Those are hard to get out intact.

2. There is a real good chance you will break those lines taking them out. This is especially true on an older XJ, where the years of corrosion have taken their toll on the fittings in the wheel well.

Owing to these two issues, I would recommend just making new lines from stock lengths. If you are not familar with the technique, find a buddy who works on cars and has made brake lines before. Any car will do, as the technique is the same.

It's not hard work, but it does require the right tools and some attention to detail.
 
Ok, thanks for your help with the brake lines. But is there anything that I need to do with the front rotors and calipers, or the rear drums? Or can I just leave them and change the lines, master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve, and the pedal? Bones had said in his write-up that "its important to note that the ABS and standard brake systems use different sized wheel cylinders for the rear brakes." And I just wasnt positive about the front. I just dont want to pull it all apart and then realize that I need more parts. THanks again.
 
Dang, I just posted this over on OEM - we need to make a sticky for this:

On my 91 / ABS I DID need the new pedal - not the whole assembly - just the arm itself (a lot easier to remove just that). Also the rubber pad on the pedal won't interchange (old style is larger).

My donor was a 95 (maybe a late year model?) but it was the same as a 96. If you have no intention of using brake lines from the donor you can just cut them loose, it's fast and you get all the fittings. Master Cylinder / Booster / Portioning valve are all bolted together - get the whole thing, and the spacer behind it.

Also, I don't think the write-ups mention it but, the rear axle of the Dana35 calls for different brake cylinders in ABS and non-ABS systems. Call a decent parts house and you will find 2 different parts numbers. . . the non-ABS is a little larger.

I put in the junkyard parts and put the extra money into a nice brake job with the new cylinders on the rear axle. Oh yeah, the bleeder valve stripped on a front caliper so I did the front too. . .

Different approaches for the brake lines - but (once you get over the fact your life depends on it), it is basic plumbing. . . . Fittings changed between the 2 systems so, they are NOT simply going to bolt right up. I just cut the existing lines, bent to fit, slipped on the 95/96 fittings and reflared. Others either used fittings to adapt, or replaced lines. Some people have had problems the old lines breaking when they try to bend them, my rig is rust free, worked fine for me.

x2 on reflaring the brake lines - a buddy with tools and experience can make it look simple. Front calipers are the same.
 
skiescape2 said:
Ok, thanks for your help with the brake lines. But is there anything that I need to do with the front rotors and calipers, or the rear drums? Or can I just leave them and change the lines, master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve, and the pedal? Bones had said in his write-up that "its important to note that the ABS and standard brake systems use different sized wheel cylinders for the rear brakes." And I just wasnt positive about the front. I just dont want to pull it all apart and then realize that I need more parts. THanks again.
Click to expand...
Front end should be good to go as is. The statement made about the rears being different sizes was news to me, but I cannot refute it, so I assume it to be true.

If you are going to the trouble of doing all the upper part of the brake system, it might not be a bad idea to consider replacing those wheel cylinders in the back anyhow. After all, in the total cost of things, the 2 cylinders at $15 each is pretty small, and you will have the entire brake system apart anyhow, necessitating a full bleeding.......
 
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