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8.8 Pinion Yoke Options

Bent

Only Marble Sharp
NAXJA Member
Due to some clearance with a Currie high pinion 9" (8.8) I ended up searching for options to allow my drive shaft and exhaust to live in harmony. Other than the pinion sitting slightly higher than a D30, the change in the routing of the exhaust. The pre-cats forced the "Y" to be lower, because of the low pinion front axle there were no issues. I moved the coupling flange to just in front of the catalytic converter, rerouted the down pipes so that the "Y" is not at the side of the oil pan but more or less wrapping around to the bottom. Everything looked pretty good sitting in the driveway, even on a short test run in some rocks. WRONG. On a real trail where there is velocity and inertia involved, there was some self clearance(ing) going on; unfortunately not enough.

This brings me to the point of this post. After searching for options to replace that monster of a companion flange and the u-joint adapter plate that sticks out even further; I found no other yoke options in my search of mod tech. If you go to the Currie site they lead you to believe that their 1350 yoke is custom made and the only other option in existence. This is in fact untrue. There's a shop in Vegas that had 1330 yokes, better but still to big.I found a shop on the web that stocks a 1310 pinion yoke for the 8.8. Sixty five bucks and that is with the u-bolts and nut. The real bonus was that they were 25 miles from me so I could have it NOW! :D This will give me ~3/4" more room for axle movement and I just may be in great shape.
Although there may be other suppliers, I was unable to find anything other than questions. This post may appear ten times longer than it needs to be, it should come up easily on a relevant search or even an irrelevant one.


Inland Empire Driveline
Ontario, Ca.


Hope this helps somebody,

TIM
 
Dana Spicer makes an 8.8 Adapter yoke in the 1310, it's what I'm plannin on runnin in my ax once my 8.8 gets new gears, I think it only runs around $40-50, kind of hard to find though, if you call a place like randy's they'll be able to give you the part number for it
 
Panthers65 said:
Dana Spicer makes an 8.8 Adapter yoke in the 1310, it's what I'm plannin on runnin in my ax once my 8.8 gets new gears, I think it only runs around $40-50, kind of hard to find though, if you call a place like randy's they'll be able to give you the part number for it


Are you thinking of the companion flange or a true yoke?

Bent, GOOD FIND. I need one.

Are you eliminating the crush sleeve at the same time? I think Randy's has a crush sleeve eliminator for the 8.8. Makes trail service a little easier.
 
Bent said:
Currie high pinion 9" (8.8)
Not sure if I'm reading this right but are you thinking the 9" is the same as the 8.8?
 
kid4lyf said:
Not sure if I'm reading this right but are you thinking the 9" is the same as the 8.8?

no the currie HP 9" centersection uses the Ford Expedition? 8.8 IFS HP gears - and therefore an 8.8 yoke would work...
 
Bent said:
Due to some clearance with a Currie high pinion 9" (8.8) I ended up searching for options to allow my drive shaft and exhaust to live in harmony. Other than the pinion sitting slightly higher than a D30, the change in the routing of the exhaust. The pre-cats forced the "Y" to be lower, because of the low pinion front axle there were no issues. I moved the coupling flange to just in front of the catalytic converter, rerouted the down pipes so that the "Y" is not at the side of the oil pan but more or less wrapping around to the bottom. Everything looked pretty good sitting in the driveway, even on a short test run in some rocks. WRONG. On a real trail where there is velocity and inertia involved, there was some self clearance(ing) going on; unfortunately not enough.

This brings me to the point of this post. After searching for options to replace that monster of a companion flange and the u-joint adapter plate that sticks out even further; I found no other yoke options in my search of mod tech. If you go to the Currie site they lead you to believe that their 1350 yoke is custom made and the only other option in existence. This is in fact untrue. There's a shop in Vegas that had 1330 yokes, better but still to big.I found a shop on the web that stocks a 1310 pinion yoke for the 8.8. Sixty five bucks and that is with the u-bolts and nut. The real bonus was that they were 25 miles from me so I could have it NOW! :D This will give me ~3/4" more room for axle movement and I just may be in great shape.
Although there may be other suppliers, I was unable to find anything other than questions. This post may appear ten times longer than it needs to be, it should come up easily on a relevant search or even an irrelevant one.


Inland Empire Driveline
Ontario, Ca.


Hope this helps somebody,

TIM


Tim,

I thought you got TrueHi9 third members? That would change things.
 
cracker said:
Tim,

I thought you got TrueHi9 third members? That would change things.
That's in the rear. I figured I didn't need all that beef in the front.

crash said:
Are you eliminating the crush sleeve at the same time? I think Randy's has a crush sleeve eliminator for the 8.8. Makes trail service a little easier.

If you are refering to the pinion seal, then yes. I'll be swapping things out this afternoon. I'll post any issues, if any I run into.

I know the 1330 is kind of an odd ball because of the TC output, but heere's the place in Vegas that has them. If I'm not mistaken they had 1330 out puts and CVs. I won't swear to it, but I ran across them somewhere in my hunt.

http://www.drivetrain.com/jonts_yokes.htm
 
No, I mean the crush sleeve. The part that controls pinion bearing pre-load. You can't change the yoke without replacing the crush sleeve, or at least adding a .010 shim, and re-torquing the crush sleeve.

Unless Currie or does a crush sleeve eliminator on their HP 8.8's?
 
Bent said:
That's in the rear. I figured I didn't need all that beef in the front.



If you are refering to the pinion seal, then yes. I'll be swapping things out this afternoon. I'll post any issues, if any I run into.

I know the 1330 is kind of an odd ball because of the TC output, but heere's the place in Vegas that has them. If I'm not mistaken they had 1330 out puts and CVs. I won't swear to it, but I ran across them somewhere in my hunt.

http://www.drivetrain.com/jonts_yokes.htm

if you have a 1310 driveshaft right now, there are 1330-1310 u-joint adaptors...

IIRC the only difference between the two is the length of the cross - the trunion and the bearing cap are the same specs...
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
I'm kinda unclear...

Drawbacks to running a 1330 yoke vs a 1310?

I think Bent has a clearance problem in the front end with his new axle. The 1310 will be a tad smaller. I haven't seen it but it sounds like a tight fit under there. He doesn't have that much of a lift under there either and it is a newer XJ (set up for a low pinion D30) and his new axle is high pinion.
 
CRASH said:
Are you eliminating the crush sleeve at the same time?
I went with the solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve when I ordered both third members. Changing the pinion yoke is just a matter of sliding the old one off, sliding the new yoke on and torque the new nut down to 125 ft/lbs. For some reason I'm thinking that Currie uses the solid spacer on all their units, :dunno: I'm certain that you can go either way with the Hi-9. But then again, it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
I'm kinda unclear...

Drawbacks to running a 1330 yoke vs a 1310?

Diameter is the enemy in my case. I'm trying to keep the center of gravity down as much as possible while still maintaining the maximum amount of travel in the suspension. In addition, the 1310 yoke is ~half the price of the 1330, it's local and this way I can pick up a spare u-joint anywhere.

Another thing I noticed with the new yoke, besides only being a third of the weight is that there is almost double the spline contact over the companion flange. The ears on the companion mounting plate look a little thin for comfort; there's not much material to the top half holding the u-joint. Replacing the u-joint will be much easier with the u-bolts on the yoke; I won't have to press both sides.
 
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