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ford 8.8 VS Yota 6 lug

T

The Blu Yak

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jamestown NC
Which is a better swap for a cherokee? the 8.8 with the low clearence pumpkin or the Yota 6 lug 8inch ring gear from a taco?
Has anyone done the yota swap before? Ive gotten some other opinions on NC4x4 and the majority said go for the yota for cost and the application of 35 inch tires and under. Both axles would be locked and not see more than 35 inch tires.
 
The Toyota axle has much better clearance, especially if you cut and plate the housing. The Toyota axle is cheaper to find (at least here in NorCal). If you stick with the 60" wide Toyota 8" diff (4 runners and TRD tacos) you can get the factory E-locker. Toyota had factory 4.56 and 4.88 gears. Both are plenty of strength for 35s.

If you're okay with going to 6 lug, I would (and did) choose the Toyota axle hands down.
 
Yeah I know, I was avoiding the 5. 45 swap tho, I was going to go with the 6 lug, but that doesnt matter both are the same swap. I didnt see that but I was more or less just wondmering on the pro's and cons of each axle.
 
I read in that other post that I would need to reflair my brake lines to metric..How would you reflare them or would you just get new brake lines and run it to the brakes?
 
The Blu Yak said:
I read in that other post that I would need to reflair my brake lines to metric..How would you reflare them or would you just get new brake lines and run it to the brakes?
Click to expand...
you could probably get an SAE to metric adapter, or a line with SAE on one side and metric on the other, but what I chose to do is take the brake line off my D35, take the metric ends off the brakeline that came on the axle, borrow the flaring tool from Autozone (free) and flare the metric fittings onto my D35 brake line.
 
Yota.
 
sounds easy enough, the yota has drums in the rear too corect? so that means no other brake mods would be needed such as upgraded MC to push the fluid for rear disks correct? Also how difficult was it to relocate the leaf springs to the right position and shock mounts?
 
I've been checking out Yota axles as well. The fact that you can find them with stock 4.56 gearing is what got my attention... I have still been looking at 8.8's as well though. I'd also like to hear your reasoning Crash.
 
here ya go, CRASH's opinions on rear axles: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51252

just one part:
CRASH said:
Ford 8.8: 35's with a locker, 36's without a locker. Very similar in strength to a 44. Carriers are a weak link when used in extreme environments. New carriers are being introduced to address the weak 2 pinion carrier design. Shafts are beefy at 31 spline, but no diameter upgrades are available. Pinion shaft is very beefy, same as a 9". Weld the tubes all the way around to the pumpkin, or they WILL spin.

Toyota 8": 35's with a locker, 36's without a locker. I'm always very impressed by Toyota quality, they are worlds ahead in quality control and tolerances. The Toy 8" uses the same shafts as a Dana 44, 30 spline, but with a bunch more ground clearance.. The case is more rigid, and has a bit more hypoid offset too, which helps in R&P strength. The Toy guys flog this axle pretty hard with 37's, but I have seen enough break with that size tire under 22RE 4 cylinder power to make me keep the limits at D-44 levels for a much torquier 4.0.
Click to expand...
 
The Blu Yak said:
I read in that other post that I would need to reflair my brake lines to metric..How would you reflare them or would you just get new brake lines and run it to the brakes?
Click to expand...
i redid the hard lines with the metric still on the drums and used some SAE fittings and my 3-way from the 8.25.
 
I already have a Ford 8.8(not installed), but have determined that after regearing it to 4.10's, with an Eaton E-Locker, and replacing the worn out axleshafts, I would be money ahead going with a Toyota 8". I've found a couple out of 96 up 4Runner's with 4.10's and elockers, these are approx 60" right? I know I still need to deal with the bolt pattern, and was wondering if it's possible to turn down, and redrill the axlehsafts, and use the explrorer discs I already have? Does anyone have any measurements for the housing end bolt pattern, and the distance from the housing end to wms, so I could check the measurements against the explorer brakes? Thanks
 
I want to convert the yota axle to 5 x 4.5, and use the explorer discs. Unless if someone knows a cheap way to convert the front.
 
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