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what rigs have ubolt yokes for 1310 joints?

N

northwestxj

NAXJA Member #1283
Location
washington
hey guys, did some searching and found a little info but not exactly what im looking for. basically im trying to find out what year and model trucks, etc. have yokes that are made for ubolts, but use to 1310 size joints.

im switching over from the straps to ubolts and would really prefer to get new yokes that are direct swap that use the bolts so that i dont have to try to drill out my stock yokes and mess with trying to make the nut fit on the backside as there is not enough room.

i had read that d44 axles had them and something about chevy trucks w/ front d44's but anybody know what years?

those of you who did this using junkyard yokes, what did you use?

thanks
 
Try looking for yokes on the old CJ series axles. If you can't find any in the local yards, ask on here ( Hint)
 
all dana 44's and dana 30's use the same yoke, but the d35 yokes are a little different

so a d44 yoke would work on a d30...



My hpd44 from a 76 f-150 had u-bolts...
 
all right thanks guys, good to know that all d44 and d30 use the same yoke....ill guess ill be off to the yard tomarrow to see what i can find.
 
you do know that changing a yoke on an axle that you are going to run again is not an un-bolt, re bolt thing right?


there is a pre-load that needs to be kept...
 
actually xj ranger could you clarify on the pre-load thing?

basically i just installed the porc sye which comes w/ a new yoke obviously, and bought a TW driveshaft (still waiting for it to come), and so when i put on the new shaft i was going to switch out the yokes on the 8.25 so i could use the ubolts vs. the strap setup.

What are you referring to when you say pre-load? thanks for your help.
 
He is actually reffering to the pinion bearing pre-load. It is the "depth" at whitch the pion bearing engages the ring gear in the axle, and if it is thrown off, it can cause all kinds of trouble- everything from noise to vibes to rapid gear wear, and so on. I have not had any trouble with my swaps yet, but it is a good idea to have the pattern checked, just to be safe.
 
ren said:
He is actually reffering to the pinion bearing pre-load. It is the "depth" at whitch the pion bearing engages the ring gear in the axle, and if it is thrown off, it can cause all kinds of trouble- everything from noise to vibes to rapid gear wear, and so on. I have not had any trouble with my swaps yet, but it is a good idea to have the pattern checked, just to be safe.
Click to expand...

not quite...

lemme see if i can find a link...


The t-case is a bolt on, torque to spec, call it good aplication

the pinion however has a crush sleve, and that needs to not be crushed anymore than it was...

here is a good thread discussing my blunderous learning about pinion depth and crush sleves -

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63629&highlight=pinion

note that when changing the pinion yoke - you will want to change the pinion seal at the same time and inspect the seal surface on the pinion yoke at the yard.

my 9" pinion seal surface looks like this:

​

not good and it leaks like a sive...

i need to replace that too.... harumph!
 
Hey XJranger, you know that you can actually get a spacer for the 9" axle, instead of the crush sleeve? Jeg's and Summit carry them. That way you can be like every body else and use shims instead of the crush sleeve that can change its' setting when you wack sometheing with the yoke.
 
ren said:
Hey XJranger, you know that you can actually get a spacer for the 9" axle, instead of the crush sleeve? Jeg's and Summit carry them. That way you can be like every body else and use shims instead of the crush sleeve that can change its' setting when you wack sometheing with the yoke.
Click to expand...

yup

but i am going to trash this centersection and buy a complete one setup with gears and a detroit once $$$ arive...

thanks though
 
ok glad you mentioned this xjranger before i installed the new yoke...

i think ill just go ahead and get some new straps for now and put those on, then when i regear in the next year or so ill have them put in the new yoke as well.

thanks a lot for everybodys help.
 
IntrepidXJ said:
no crush sleeve on a d44/d30. it is an unbolt rebolt thing.
Click to expand...

i yet again get another lesson...
 
northwestxj said:
but there is on the 8.25 correct?
Click to expand...


Yes, and if you overtorque the crush sleeve on the 8.25 and drive, you will seriously trash your rear end (I did that.. :) )

Not to mention 8.25 yokes setup for u-bolts dont exactly fall out of the woodwork. I keep hearing rumors you can find old dodge ram and dart 8.25's with u-bolts to take the yokes from, but in five months of junkyard watching, havent seen one.. nor one on ebay, nor one here..

Several people have drilled their strap style yoke out with decent luck though. You have to grind out the backside so the nut can sit flat. I was going to do that, but am uncomfortable with how little metal would be left.
 
yep, definately looks like drilling it out would not leave enough metal on the yoke, thats why i didnt do that as well. ill just stick to straps for now then and get some new ones, and then carry my old ones with me for spares.
 
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