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Crazy Pressure Bottle

N

nightwolf0829

NAXJA Forum User
Location
EHT, NJ
Well, my 89' XJ decided to blow a cap today. On my way to a friends, it started overheating when i was close 210+. I pulled in and my bottle seems to have done something so odd.. The bottle seems intact, but when i stopped the coolant went all over, i thought it had a leak so i barely drove it. It started leaking from the bottem of the canister it looks like. Does anyone know of an auto store that i can get one from. I understand that Quadratec sells them, but im in need of one and a new cap asap. I tried all the usual things, Advance, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Crown, Napa, and the parts depart. was closed at 5 today. Should i just go out and get a new one from stealer, or get used off junker?

Thanks Guys!
 
Before I changed radiator styles, I used a "splice in" radiator fill point. It got rid of the stupid bottle, gave me fill point that I could actually use to check coolant level in, and in general neatened up the under hood area. I did have to install a small overflow container, but imports are a great place to look for one that you like and that fits under the hood.
 
The cap is plastic..overheating makes cap expand
cap has rubber o ring which when overheated will lose it's ability to seal
the bottle will expand but shouldn't leak unless it is original factory bottle.
The newer bottles seem to be thicker and on the nipple for the 1/2" line now has a metal sleeve to reinforce it....older ones wwere known for leaking at this spot...
I did the swap @ 2 yrs ago.....now the only thing I have to burp is my new Grandaughter
 
Thanks for the replys guys, I could not wait. So i bit the bullet approx65 from stealership... It's my work truck so time was an issue. Now It's only slightly overheating.. Time for T-Stat.. While im on the subject, My truck takes approx 4-5 cranks to start. I know the older modles are slow, but this slow? Time for plugs/cap/rotor i suppose..

Thanks, Justin
 
Yeah, the crank time is about right. My DD MJ is a little longer on the time, but I think it is because it needs new plugs ( everything else is new).
 
Don't forget to check everyhting while you are there. My old cap had so much oil CAKED in it, that the rotor had actually had to clear a groove for it to run in. Needless to say, my MJ ran like A$$. After I changed the cap and rotor, I had to get all the oil out of the dist. body ( used a LOT of Q-tips). Now the truck runs MUCH better, so hopefully the plugs will finish the job.
 
If you want a guaranteed no leak ever cap for the pressure bottle, go to the local Volvo dealer and buy a cap for a Volvo 240 turbo, 740 turbo or a 940 turbo. Volvo uses a pressurized bottle that is similar to the Jeeps bottle.

I have had my cap on there for a few years and it has not leaked once. Volvo makes a few different colored caps, make sure the Volvo cap you buy is green. It screws right on, no problems anymore!!!
 
Take an old piece of radiator hose and split it down the middle. Place that under your new radiator bottle to help cushion it and hopefully keep the bottom outlet from cracking.

Yes, it's normal for the Renix models to take several cranks before the computer gives the 'okay' to fire the coil. You can sometimes shorten this by turning the key to 'On' and pausing for a second to let the fuel pump prime before starting the engine.

Don't crank the cap down on those bottles - you could end up splitting the rubber gasket in the cap and then you're back to square one with a "bad bottle" and water spewage...
 
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