In the interaction section AJ has the instructions listed. Still saving for mine, kills me too as I know he has some ready. Here's a copy of the instructions:
Ok so maybe this isn't rocket science but there are some tricks/tips that will make the installation go a lot easier. So I'll go over the tools you'll need, a step by step on the actual installation and a how-to to applying various finishes. If at any time you have a question or problem, don't hesitate to contact me!
TOOLS
* 7/16 wrenches and/or socket
* 9/16 socket
* 21/64 drill bit (for self threading bolts)
* 9/32 or 5/16 drill bit (anything slightly larger than 1/4" for pinch seam bolts)
* 3/8 or 1/2 drill bit (for rear spring hanger bolt)
* vice grips
* something to mark holes (marker, scribe...)
* center punch and hammer
INSTALLATION
First thing to do is trial fit and mark the holes you'll need to drill out. This is best done before you paint the rockrails so you don't bang up the finish anymore than you have to. Looking at the rails you'll notice the plates that mount to the frame are different on each end, one is T-shaped (front mount), the rear is L-shaped. Best way I've found to hold the rails up in place is with a pair of vice grips clamped to the pinch seam and pinch seam mount. Either have a friend help lift them up into position or just sit with your legs under the Jeep and use your knees to help hold them up before clamping them. A few key points about positioning the rails. The rear mount needs to be pushed back against the spring hanger. The pinch seam mount needs to be up as high as possible. If you find they aren't high enough to have sufficient metal to drill/bolt to then feel free to mark where the frame leg mounts are and grind/cut away some of the pinch seam to raise it up. Once you have them clamped to the pinch seam, give the mounts on the framerail a kick or smack (real technical here) upwards. BE CAREFUL YOU ARE NOT UNDER THE RAILS WHEN YOU DO THIS!! The vice grips can let loose and SMACK...believe me, they hurt falling on your knee, not that I know from experience. Kiss
Now that you have them in position you'll just need to go through and mark all the holes for drilling, pretty straightforward. The pinch seam holes can be kind of a pain, use a short drywall screw, short pencil or a q-tip dipped in some paint. To prevent the drill bit from walking go ahead and center punch these holes. You can get good drill bits that won't walk on you though.
TIME TO DRILL! The frame rail mounts holes get drilled to 21/64, this is critical for the self threading bolts to bite properly. Pinch seam gets drilled to something slightly larger than 1/4 as indicated, you can use 1/4" but it will be a snug fit when installing the hardware. The spring hanger mount uses a 3/8" bolt so anything slightly larger than that will work fine. Now a quick word on drilling the holes. The key is to use sharp bits, go slow and don't be afraid to use some sort of coolant if necessary. Heat destoys drill bits and makes the metal harder to drill so go slow or just pulse the drill. Use good pressure to get the bit to bite, if it seems like it's getting hot spray it with some WD-40 or dip it in some motor oil to cool it. Drill the holes in the framerails as best you can, meaning don't wobble them out or anything.
Now would be the time to apply some finish to your rails, I'll go more into that process later. The key to mounting them is to get all the hardware started, but nothing tightened down.
* The framerail mounts use the self-threading bolts that take a 9/16" socket. Don't go crazy when tightening downs as the framerail metal is not that thick. Not many people strip these out so don't worry about it.
* The pinch seam bolts use a 7/16" wrench/socket.
* The 3/8" bolts go into the rear spring hanger. This is something I added in the last few months, wasn't really needed but it adds strength so why the heck not! Grin
You may notice slight gaps between the mounts and the metal of the XJ, this is normal and not a problem unless they are pretty big. All my rails are built using a fixture so there is little to no variances in those. After speaking with an engineer who was involved with the production of XJ's throughout the years I found there were variances in the unibody itself. If you run into a problem or concern let me know, there are ways to accomodate this. It's not often though.
