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3 link mid arm....update

Goatman

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Bakersfield, CA
I get asked now and then about my mid arm 3 link front suspension, and to answer the most recent question I thought I'd post it here so others can read it and search for it. The new suspension came about while I was installing a front HPD44 and rear Tera60. Clicking on any of the colored type will take you to a pic of the subject.

First thing is the goals I was after. I wanted good control arm angles, good ground clearance, and hard upper control arm bushings to better control front axle wrap. I drew out various suspension designs in chaulk on the garage floor and determined that long arms were not what I wanted because of the dramatic decrease in ground clearance. So, I simply moved the mounting positions slightly, and lengthened the arms slightly, and ended up with a design that, on paper, gave me good arm angles and good ground clearance.

The lower control arm axle mounts are even with the center of the axle tubes. The frame side LCA mounting position is 2.5" further back and 1" lower than stock. The old mounts were removed and new mounts fabbed, with a good amount of frame reinforcement done in the process. The bottom of the mounts are only 1/2" lower than the stock mounts, and since they are only moved rearward 2.5" and are tapered on the back, there is very little ground clearance lost over the stock mounts. The arms are 19.5" long and use johnny joints on both ends.

There is one upper control arm, on the passenger side, and the axle mount is 9" higher than the lower mount. The mount is integral with the trackbar mount, which ended up making a semi-A arm out of the track bar and UCA. The track bar mount is 7" higher than the center of the housing tubes, which keeps it aligned with the drag link. The UCA frame mount position is 1" further back and 2" lower than the stock position. The upper arm is 17" long and uses a johnny joint at the axle and a rod end at the frame. The track bar uses johnny joints at both ends.

Here are the basic specs. The LCA's are 19.5" long and are at a 12* angle at ride height, the UCA is 17" long and is at a 7* angle at ride height. The frame side upper and lower arm seperation is 6.5" and the axle side seperation is 9". The reason for the single upper arm is to eliminate any binding of the suspension, like there is on the stock style XJ 4 link or the typical radius arm (RE style) long arm. This allows the use of hard joints instead of rubber since no bushing deflection is needed to handle any binding when articulating. The use of hard joints eliminates front axle wrap, which was one of the design goals.

This setup has worked very well, and I feel that the design goals were achieved. The ride and handling are very good, as well as trail manners, both on the street and hauling across the desert, and there have been no breakdowns of any of the components after 3+ years of pretty hard use. Since this suspension has been installed, I've driven the XJ from central CA to Moab twice, and to CO twice, and to AZ three times, as well as numerous trips to the desert and mountains of CA. I began towing to the trails last year, because I bought a truck and camper to stay in, but I wouldn't hesitate to jump in the Jeep and drive it anywhere.

There are a couple of things that were changed since the original build. I felt there was too little anti-dive, with more brake dive than I wanted, so I raised the UCA axle mount 2". Originally the UCA axle mount was 7" higher than the LCA mount, now it is 9" higher, and the brake dive is gone. There was also a tendancy, under just the right situation, for the passenger front tire to climb and the drivers side tire would climb with it. This only happened to me a couple of times, and wasn't hard to control with slight throttle adjustment, but it hasn't happened again since raising the UCA axle mount the 2". Another thing is that the UCA frame side rod end was mounted using a 1/2" bolt (grade 8, like everything) and misalignment spacers. The 1/2" bolt ended up being hard to keep tight, and it has been replaced with a 5/8" bolt, which is working out fine.

Here are some more pics.
 
Nice writeup Richard.
Why did you go with the passenger side UCA as opposed to the drivers side like the URF long arm?
 
Sounds like you've achieved the best of both worlds Richard, oh wait, I guess that's why I did the exact same thing :D

The 'correct' side for a single UCA is on the passenger side.
The URF UCA is too long for the passenger side & would interfere with the starter.
I agonized over which side to put mine on, as there are considerations to both, but in reality I think that as long as you get the angle right it doesn't matter in the least.

Paul
 
kid4lyf said:
Nice writeup Richard.
Why did you go with the passenger side UCA as opposed to the drivers side like the URF long arm?

After a considerable amount of calculating the various forces involved, and plotting the change in anti-dive as the suspension cycles up and down, and comparing the info for an arm mounted on either side, and considering the stress points of both.................

Actually, the only consideration was that it was easier to modify the upper arm frame mount on the passenger side than on the drivers side because there's a little more room to work and mostly because I didn't have to mess with all the lines that run down the inside of the frame. Pretty scientific, huh. I later found out that there are good reasons for having it on the passenger side, if the upper arm is pretty level.
 
Goatman said:
After a considerable amount of calculating the various forces involved, and plotting the change in anti-dive as the suspension cycles up and down, and comparing the info for an arm mounted on either side, and considering the stress points of both.................
I would expect nothing less from you. :D

:idea: :doh: :idea: :doh: :idea:

:huh:
 
ChuckD said:
You mention the 9" of separation. Does is matter where your mount the LCA's on the axle side as long as you have that 9"? For example if someone was to use the OEM stock location on the axle end? Of course I don't know what the OEM separation is off hand anyway.

When I first did mine I used the stock axle LCA & UCA mounts, I simply drilled new holes in the axle LCA mounts about 3/4" higher. The combo of new frame mounts & redrilled LCA mounts reduced my LCA angles from about 26* to 15* (IIRC). My UCA angles were reduced to about 13* (IIRC).
But, I was running 2 UCA's, so I don't think it was as important to have as much vertical separation as with a 3 link.
If you're going 3 link you'll need to beef-up the UCA mount anyway, so you might as well raise it, & as long as you're going to all that work, you might as well raise the LCA mounts for maximum clearance & arm angle reduction.

A couple of neat things about the 19.5" mid arm is that you can do it without moving the actual LCA frame mount back, you have just to optimize the design of the mount. You can also gain about 1/4" clearance over the stock mount while substantially reducing the arm angles.
The bad thing about it is that it's a huge PITA cutting the stock LCA mounts cleanly off the frame. There are about 16 rosette welds per side, + several more on the UCA mounts.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
When I first did mine I used the stock axle LCA & UCA mounts, I simply drilled new holes in the axle LCA mounts about 3/4" higher. The combo of new frame mounts & redrilled LCA mounts reduced my LCA angles from about 26* to 15* (IIRC). My UCA angles were reduced to about 13* (IIRC).
But, I was running 2 UCA's, so I don't think it was as important to have as much vertical separation as with a 3 link.
If you're going 3 link you'll need to beef-up the UCA mount anyway, so you might as well raise it, & as long as you're going to all that work, you might as well raise the LCA mounts for maximum clearance & arm angle reduction.

A couple of neat things about the 19.5" mid arm is that you can do it without moving the actual LCA frame mount back, you have just to optimize the design of the mount. You can also gain about 1/4" clearance over the stock mount while substantially reducing the arm angles.
The bad thing about it is that it's a huge PITA cutting the stock LCA mounts cleanly off the frame. There are about 16 rosette welds per side, + several more on the UCA mounts.

Paul

How about some good pictures of your frame side mount redo? Jeff
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
How about some good pictures of your frame side mount redo? Jeff

They're pretty much the same as Richard's, as you're limited to 2" down & back on the UCA mount, which dictates how much you're going to want to move the lowers.
Anyway, I'll try, but posting pictures is beyond me:

standard


standard


Paul
 
BrettM said:
Is that some old-timer trick? and here I'm using CAD programs when really all I need to do is have my little sister steal me some chalk from school :laugh3:

Well, I didn't say that you also need string, and a tape measure. :D

Really, in a single dimension, I'm sure you can do the chalk and string thing on the floor quicker than you can do it with a CAD program.......though I've never used CAD.
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
So what are the good reasons for putting the single upper arm on the passengers side Richard? Jeff

It has to do with equalizing the torque forces on the housing, the driveline torque working against the the upper arm. From what I understand (very little at this point), the more angle there is on the arm the further towards the driver side the ideal placement is, and the more level the arm the further to the passenger side is ideal. Since I raised my arm, and it's fairly level, the passenger side is the ideal placement.

Now, how much actual difference you can tell, who knows, but I guess on a competition buggy they're looking for every small advantage they can get. I can say that with the angle that I had at first, it did have a weird tendancy to lift the drivers side tire when the pass side tire climbed......in the right situation both tires went up the same even though only the pass side was on a rock, the drivers side hung in the air. It only did that a few times, but now with the arm more level it hasn't done it at all.

ChuckD said:
You mention the 9" of separation. Does is matter where your mount the LCA's on the axle side as long as you have that 9"? For example if someone was to use the OEM stock location on the axle end? Of course I don't know what the OEM separation is off hand anyway.

It isn't the amount of seperation that is so critical, it's the angle of the arms. Very generally, more arm angle creates less anti-dive, less arm angle creates more anti-dive. Now, to get actual anti-dive the relationship of the angles of the lower and upper arms is also considered. Proper anti-dive is good for handling. If I understand it correctly, and can explain it correctly, consider the front axle from the side. If you visualize braking forces trying to rotate the tire in reverse, the force pushes down on the arms, which pull down on the body, giving you brake dive. Correspondingly, under power, the tire is trying to rotate forward, so the force pushes up on the arms, which push up on the body. So, basically, the less anti-dive, the more brake dive and more torque jacking/lifting of the chassis in the front, and the more anti-dive the less brake dive and less torque jacking/lifing of the front.

Mounting the arms even with the tubes is an easy way to get better LCA angles. But, now the upper arm/arms need to be beefed up to handle the increased torque load......both the mount and the joint/bushing. You don't see it much, but UCA frame side mounts can rip off, so that has to be beefed up if you're going to run a single upper arm.

My previous LCA setup (D30) was moved slightly, like Paul's was. My LCA axle mount position was 1.5" higher than stock, but still used the stock mounts. I was able to do that because I also had moved the shock mounts outward and upward because the shocks were hitting the frame on full droop when articulating. The LCA frame mount position was 2" lower than stock, which I did by welding a small bracket to the bottom of the stock mount, and the bottom of the new mount was only 1.5" lower than the stock mount and tapered up in the back to the back of the stock mount. I also used only the top half of a set of drop brackets to lower the upper arms a full 4". So, between 2" on the frame and 1.5" on the axle I effectively lowered the LCA's 3.5", and the UCA's 4", just like full drop brackets, while only loosing barely 1.5" of ground clearance.
 
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