Front Brakes

My brakes work well without pedal pulse thankfully, but most of the time after the brakes get hot from heavy use the left front grabs too quick and pulls a bit to the left I'm thinking that the LF pads are contaminated and grab quicker on that side due to heat build up. Does this seem like the case?

I dropped the Jeep off at the shop tonight for an oil change tomorrow morning and am thinking that I should have the shop throw some new pads on as well, but just wanted to see what you guys think I should do.

96 Sport ax-15 no abs

If they are worn then have them replace them. Just make sure to carry a 3' long breaker bar and a 2" 1/2 torque wrench with the correct socket. Once the shop is done and they have rolled it out loosen all the lugs, one wheel at a time and use the big torque wrench to retorqe them to 80Ft lbs. The air guns with their torque sticks are just not that accurate. I carry both under my rear seat, the bar cost me $14 at a parts store and the big torque wrench cost me like $24 or so....

I use a torque stick on my impact everyday. Never have lost a wheel in the 8 years I have been doing this. To each his own I guess. If you did that in the parking lot after I worked on your vehicle, it would leave some hard feelings of distrust with me.
Have the shop check your brakes but tell them the problem your having with it. Sounds to me like a slightly larger problem than just pads. I would say possible caliper hang up or soft brake hose. Could not say for sure without actually seeing it.
Good luck with it.

comancheon33 said:

I use a torque stick on my impact everyday. Never have lost a wheel in the 8 years I have been doing this. To each his own I guess. If you did that in the parking lot after I worked on your vehicle, it would leave some hard feelings of distrust with me.

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Its not leaving the lugs too loose thats just the problem. Its putting the wheel on all cockeyed and different torques at each nut. I just recently noticed the Discount tires left 1 lug loose on the rear and put the front wheels on all out of square meaning the bottom was more tucked in and not square to the hub since they used the impact gun to crank down the bottom lug and hold the wheel on with that and then go after the other lugs. The jeep had a noticable vibration not to mention that warping the rotors. The biggest culprits of this are the tire shops with the kid whose first job is to put the wheels back on, not pro mechanics. Pressure is another thing, they always are underinflating them so people don't complain there new tires are too harsh. Anyway, I say don't trust anybody. But I don't see the point of doing it at the parking lot and bit insulting if you want to check the torque do it at your house.

Might want to check your brake hoses. Where the bracket is that supports the hose, about midway, it will corrode under the bracket and squeezes the brake hose closed, gradual process but it happens. This causes one brake to grab harder causing lockup.

the shop checked the hoses etc and everything seems in check. since the pads look fairly new and i can always safely stop i am going to let it slide for a bit. they did suggest that the caliper is most likely the issue and at some point I should have a new one installed.

is it best to replace calipers in pairs?

their price for two new rotors, two new loaded calipers, brake fluid flush/replacement, and labor is about 275-300, which doesn't seem all that bad in my opinion, but still money that i don' have

edmaude said:

the shop checked the hoses etc and everything seems in check. since the pads look fairly new and i can always safely stop i am going to let it slide for a bit. they did suggest that the caliper is most likely the issue and at some point I should have a new one installed.

is it best to replace calipers in pairs?

their price for two new rotors, two new loaded calipers, brake fluid flush/replacement, and labor is about 275-300, which doesn't seem all that bad in my opinion, but still money that i don' have

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It is a good idea to do them in pairs.
Lets see, 10 wheel lugs, 4 caliper bolts, 2 brake line hose ends, new stuffed calipers, 120 tops, two rotors 130 tops, 45 min to jack up, remove wheels, remove calipers, have rotor fall off on to foot, replace new rotor, put new caliper on with shoes, tighten caliper bolts, disconnect old brake line and install on new caliper, bleed, put wheels back on and retorque. Not a bad price but the satisfaction of doing it yourself is priceless.
Tools needed, jack and jack stands, lug wrench, hex socket for calipers, flare nut wrench for brake line, flare nut wrench for bleeder screw. 3/8" ft/lb Torque wrench for the inexperienced to get the caliper bolts right.