disc brakes on my d35

:anon:
I know this is covered somewhere but I haven't found it yet. Are the ZJ rear discs and hardware a direct swap onto the d35 on my XJ? Madxj does them onto a d44 but doesn't say about what has to be done to go from ZJ D35 to XJ D35.
My current rear brakes need total replacement and if it's a swap I'm all for going to discs. What i won't be able to do is take two or three days to tear it apart, do a bunch of machining and get it back together.
TIA

This is in a few weeks! this week we put in the new motor!!
Now I understand about the Just Empty Every Pocket thing!

No spacer or machining required for the D35. They will bolt straight on but you do have to come for something for the hard line to flex brake hose support and hooking up the hand brake cables. I have a picture linked on my web site on how someone else had done it by looping the end of the cable around the arm.

Thanks! I did manage to find that link on your site AFTER I posted and thought "Go Jeep oughta have something!" Looks like if I can find some ZJ stuff I'm on it sometime after the engine swap!

Any change to the proportioning valve or MC necessary?

-Rick

rear disc brakes for XJ

Inquiring minds want to know!

BLUTO

actually, I just wanted to subscribe to this thread!

rixXJphx said:

Any change to the proportioning valve or MC necessary?

-Rick

Click to expand...

The M/C is exactly the same as the ZJ but the p/valve is not. So to get a full factory setup you can just use a p/valve from the ZJ as well. As these had ABS and if you do not you have to fit the extra front brake line port from you old p/valve instead of the bung they have fitted there. This because on a ABS system the front dont split until after the ABS pump.
That said, most dont bother as they find it stops well without the change. This is due to the fact that the proportioning is the same at around 50/50 at normal braking levels. Pressure to the rear is only reduced nder hard braking so it is most likely that the ZJ p/valve would be different under these times. It would only need a change in rate in the small spring inside the p/valve for this to be done. I would think then you only have to swap the springs between them and you would be done saving taking the lines off.

don't want to steal the thread but have a question.. I've done the 95 booster/mc upgrade on my 87.. thinking about a Explorer 8.8 with disk now.. What if anything do I need to do to my mc setup?
thanks
Keith