Brake light switch problem

I did the 96 booster swap on my 88 XJ and I bought the 93 brake light (as described in madxj's write-up) switch to convert the brake lights. Can someone snap a picture of what they did to mount the new switch?? I tried to use the 88's switch but I couldn't get it to work. Any help would be appreciated!!

Jason

i did it but lost all my pics when I had to reformat my cpu. I will try to get you a pic of it this week sometime. basically you take your '88 one and cut the front off of it and slide the other inside of it. I know that makes no since so I will try to get some pics.

thanks for the reply! I read the 4x4 wire thread and it didn't give any insight to the brake light problem. I just need to get this fixed so I can sell it. Thanks!

Did you grind a flat spot on the end of the pedal rod end,like the stock rod end? I was able to use the stock switch, It takes a little bit of work though. I ground a flat spot and I think I was a couple of degrees off and I couldn't make it work.I finally flipped the switch around and that worked. Other than that you are supposed to be able to use the cruise control switch hole that is higher up on a bracket near the top of the pedal,however I think that if you have a auto trans that the switch that is there is also used to tell the torque converter to unlock(when you apply the brake)so you may have to fab up a bracket to hold a switch.

For my 1990 I grabbed a brake switch from a mid-90s Chrysler car. It is a black box with 6 wires coming out, and a threaded rod that fits through the bracket directly above the existing OEM switch. The plunger inside the threaded connection goes up against the brake pedal steel shaft, above the stock location. You need to use a meter and check which wires on the new awitch are pairs, and see which are normally open and normally closed with the brake peddle not pushed (so the plunger on the switch is pushed in). Use the open or closed connections to match the ones you remove from the OEM wiring, you could have three circuits: brake lights (normally open), cruise control disconnect, and converter unlock. Match the last two to the way the oem switches were set (normally open or closed). On the one I got, it had exactly the right mix of open and closed.

very cool fix.

yeah I ground the pedal rod flat or I thougth that it is flat, but when I tighten up the bolt that goes through the brake pedal the switch is still loose. I thought of using a different bolt or a different washer setup but nothing seems to work? Mine has the metal sleeve that goes inside the pedal rod with the plastic washers, it just doesn't want to tighen up enough? thanks