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D30 hub conversion

lapisxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Huntsville, AL
I want to convert my front 30 to the locking hub config but dont' want to spend the 800+ clams that some places want. Do any of ya'll know what combo of d30 parts will do this? Would the knuckle and parts outward (spindle, brake plate, hub, rotor, caliper, locking hub, stub shaft) all swap over or is there some other tricks to this that I am not thinking about? Older d30's can be had for cheap and it would seem that there has to be a better way to make this work.... Input and opinions welcome!
 
Yeah, you can do it, but it is quite a bit of work. You need the complete knuckle assembly from the old D30 plus stubs to match your inner shafts.
I changed the whole knuckle on both sides of my '88 limited, used inner shafts from a 95 for the bigger joint and stubs from a scout II D44 for the right joint/length combo. You really need to know how to weld when it goes together. By the way, a scoutII D44 rear is just about a direct bolt in, I cut the perches loose, turned them, and rewelded because I HATE shims ( they always crack on my stuff).
Hope this helps and have fun.
Ren.
 
mine is a 96 so I already have the bigger axle joints, will the d30 stub shaft from the old 30 work? Did you replace just the outter knuckle or did you swap the inner knuckle as well?
 
I changed the Inner AND Outer knuckles because the ball joint design is different. The old D 30 joint goes in from the bottom, and the new style from the top. Take a look, and you will see what I mean. The old D30 stub uses the little joint(260) so, you would have to use early XJ inners to get the match on the joint. I don't like little joints because the bust easier.
 
ren said:
I changed the Inner AND Outer knuckles because the ball joint design is different. The old D 30 joint goes in from the bottom, and the new style from the top. Take a look, and you will see what I mean. The old D30 stub uses the little joint(260) so, you would have to use early XJ inners to get the match on the joint. I don't like little joints because the bust easier.


Got any pics? How did you cut the inner cs off? Did you leave the coil mounts?

You can use D44 outer stuff on the CJ D30 inner knuckles, then you can use the 297 joint...
 
Its commonly referred to as a hybrid 30... BillaVista has a good writeup at Pirate, IIRC.
 
I used a 4" grinder wheel/motor to grind off the old welds, then a Bfh to drive the old "C" off. I had to use a piece of steel bar on the driver side to clear the mounts. I don't have a digital camera yet, but, my safety bonus is due soon....
 
On the D44 stuff, the reason that I used old style D30 stuff is because it was already at the house, but yes, you can do it that way. Probably end up easier to get stubs if you break them, since the D44 is almost universal for 4X4's ( even the ford ttb is the same at the stub).
 
(Man, do I need to learn to finish my thoughts before pressing ENTER). Anyway, the stubs on the D44 stuff are longer than the D30, so keep that in mind when you start FRANKENJEEPing. (Ask me how I know)
 
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