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welding new floors in

C85D4x4

C85D4x4

NAXJA Member #1311
Location
Ohio, Brecksville
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.

Is this true that this can happen?
 
I cant weld. I have been meaning to find someone to do it for me, but havent got around to it. Anyway, it is possible , but you do have to be very careful when you do it, because the body will be vulnerable while you are doing it. Also I heard one story were a guy did it and his doors wouldnt close after he was done, because the body had shifted while he was doing it.
 
It all depends on where you are cutting. if you are just putting in the floor plans and not cutting close to the pillars or bracing you should be okay but better make sure the doors close right after you tack everything in.
 
C85D4x4 said:
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.

Is this true that this can happen?
Click to expand...

The search button is your friend:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46508&highlight=floorpan
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9375&highlight=floorpan

or sift through those
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=413484
 
Dont worry about it. especially if your going to just cut it out and immediatly have someone weld in new floor pans. My floor pans rotted out so i cut everything forward of the rear seats out minus the tansmission hump because it wasnt rusty. I then made some new floor pans but winter came quick and i didnt get a chance to weld them in. They are just held on right now but the bolts for the seat. Ive been driving like this for months and ive taken it out on the trails plenty of times. No probems yet (fingers crossed) no warping or twisting or anything.
 
I just finished doing mine a couple of weeks ago from the firewall to the rear hatch, everything, there was no twisting or bending and I even drilled out the rear crossmembers under the rear seat. If I knew how to post pics I would show you, but...????. Anyways, cut out what needs repair and don't worry about it, just tack it in.
 
I'd say to be safer than sorry...just don't cut out the bracing....and do only one floorboard at a time. That way you won't ever get it too far out of whack...and if there is a problem you'll know exactly where the problem is.
Aron
 
if your worried about stuff bending beacuase of the welding or the doors not lining up etc, or safety concerns, if you think about it the new floor has to be stronger than the rsuted floor.

I am no expert but all the strength is in the bends and curves. The pillars, the door sills/threshhold/rocker area spots like that. The area between the rockers and the trans tunnel, is basically flat and you can cut away no problem. :wave:
 
C85D4x4 said:
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.

Is this true that this can happen?
Click to expand...

auto body glue... as strong as a weld, safer to work with, and backed by most auto makers and insurers as an accepted repair practice. Ask a local auto paint retailer for ideas as to a brand. Just remember to rust proof the new and old stuff b4 doing this.
 
With a sufficient overlap and prep, the glue is great stuff. I used it to attach my new front clip and have had no issues. It spooks the heck out of lots of people, but I did some testing on it and it works great. There are several different formulations so make sure and get the right one.
 
old_man said:
With a sufficient overlap and prep, the glue is great stuff. I used it to attach my new front clip and have had no issues. It spooks the heck out of lots of people, but I did some testing on it and it works great. There are several different formulations so make sure and get the right one.
Click to expand...

Got information on these? I need something like that so I can finally get rid of that damn sunroof I've got - I'm tired of it raining INSIDE my truck! The only reason it's there is because it was already installed when I got the truck, and 6 tubes or RTV Black later it still leaks...

5-90
 
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