View Full Version : welding new floors in
C85D4x4
March 20th, 2005, 18:18
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.
Is this true that this can happen?
jeepguy97
March 20th, 2005, 18:51
I supose it is true, just add some support bars before you cut the old one out to keep everything strait and true.
joecool
March 20th, 2005, 18:58
I cant weld. I have been meaning to find someone to do it for me, but havent got around to it. Anyway, it is possible , but you do have to be very careful when you do it, because the body will be vulnerable while you are doing it. Also I heard one story were a guy did it and his doors wouldnt close after he was done, because the body had shifted while he was doing it.
againstherwill
March 20th, 2005, 19:20
It all depends on where you are cutting. if you are just putting in the floor plans and not cutting close to the pillars or bracing you should be okay but better make sure the doors close right after you tack everything in.
C85D4x4
March 20th, 2005, 20:19
well.....what do you do if they dont close after you tack weld it?
of are you just fxxxed
Kejtar
March 20th, 2005, 20:24
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.
Is this true that this can happen?
The search button is your friend:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46508&highlight=floorpan
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9375&highlight=floorpan
or sift through those
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=413484
cLAYH
March 20th, 2005, 21:04
I replaced mine last year, I just cut out the floor but left bracing in, where the seat bolts to. No problem.
94XJ4x4
March 20th, 2005, 21:22
Dont worry about it. especially if your going to just cut it out and immediatly have someone weld in new floor pans. My floor pans rotted out so i cut everything forward of the rear seats out minus the tansmission hump because it wasnt rusty. I then made some new floor pans but winter came quick and i didnt get a chance to weld them in. They are just held on right now but the bolts for the seat. Ive been driving like this for months and ive taken it out on the trails plenty of times. No probems yet (fingers crossed) no warping or twisting or anything.
89Wagoneer
March 20th, 2005, 21:39
I just finished doing mine a couple of weeks ago from the firewall to the rear hatch, everything, there was no twisting or bending and I even drilled out the rear crossmembers under the rear seat. If I knew how to post pics I would show you, but...????. Anyways, cut out what needs repair and don't worry about it, just tack it in.
BigDawgz
March 20th, 2005, 21:42
I'd say to be safer than sorry...just don't cut out the bracing....and do only one floorboard at a time. That way you won't ever get it too far out of whack...and if there is a problem you'll know exactly where the problem is.
Aron
C85D4x4
March 21st, 2005, 08:13
hey 89Wagoneer,
can u send the pics to my email
c85d@sbcglobal.net
thanks everyone!!!
motorcityxj
March 21st, 2005, 08:27
if your worried about stuff bending beacuase of the welding or the doors not lining up etc, or safety concerns, if you think about it the new floor has to be stronger than the rsuted floor.
I am no expert but all the strength is in the bends and curves. The pillars, the door sills/threshhold/rocker area spots like that. The area between the rockers and the trans tunnel, is basically flat and you can cut away no problem. :wave:
Roll-over
March 21st, 2005, 08:35
I went to 4-wheel-parts today to pick up some parts today. I told the mechanic i was going to get new floor boards welded in because they were rusted up badly. He told me I would screw up the unibody by cutting out the old floors, and that it can warp the hole car.
Is this true that this can happen?
auto body glue... as strong as a weld, safer to work with, and backed by most auto makers and insurers as an accepted repair practice. Ask a local auto paint retailer for ideas as to a brand. Just remember to rust proof the new and old stuff b4 doing this.
old_man
March 21st, 2005, 08:46
With a sufficient overlap and prep, the glue is great stuff. I used it to attach my new front clip and have had no issues. It spooks the heck out of lots of people, but I did some testing on it and it works great. There are several different formulations so make sure and get the right one.
Littlewhitexj
March 21st, 2005, 10:11
cut out the old, and weld in the new, there wont be any problems, you are giving the sheet metal too much credit. its not all that strong.
5-90
March 21st, 2005, 11:42
With a sufficient overlap and prep, the glue is great stuff. I used it to attach my new front clip and have had no issues. It spooks the heck out of lots of people, but I did some testing on it and it works great. There are several different formulations so make sure and get the right one.
Got information on these? I need something like that so I can finally get rid of that damn sunroof I've got - I'm tired of it raining INSIDE my truck! The only reason it's there is because it was already installed when I got the truck, and 6 tubes or RTV Black later it still leaks...
5-90
C85D4x4
March 21st, 2005, 13:46
sounds good, but i think im going to go for welding
thanks everyone!!!!!!
89Wagoneer
March 21st, 2005, 18:19
Hey C85D4X4, did you get my email. If you did hope it helps you out!
C85D4x4
March 21st, 2005, 19:41
yea i did,
thanks alot
now i just need to find someone to weld for me that does not want a shit load of $$$$$
littlexj1
March 21st, 2005, 20:45
can someone give me some prices or...better yet an online store that sells the replacement floor pans
XJourney
March 21st, 2005, 23:00
A big vote for SEM weld bond(autobody glue). I am a collision Technician and we use auto body weld bond all the time. Highly recommended because of the corrosion protection and ease of use. We actually tested the weld bonded panels versus 2 (5/16") mig spot welded panels. The two spot welded panels held 2800LBS before they failed and the weld bonded panels held 3250LBS before it failed, but the glued panels failed at the clamp and not the joint. So surface area is what counts.
Hans
C85D4x4
March 22nd, 2005, 12:39
i don’t think i have enough surface area w/o rust to do this
1985xjlaredo
September 3rd, 2006, 01:20
this is a good post time to bring it back
C85D4x4
September 3rd, 2006, 11:00
O wow........
This is old.
I almost forgot that i replaced my floors.
1985xjlaredo
September 10th, 2006, 14:57
lol thats funny have u had any problem with the way that you did the project? I guess not if you almost forgot about it.
C85D4x4
September 19th, 2006, 21:34
nope...everything went well
1985xjlaredo
September 21st, 2006, 17:05
Just got done with mine at 4:38 CST and it looks great smells bad but looks great.
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