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Jeep AAL install + Few Tcase Questions

J

jeepsrock

NAXJA Forum User
Location
LA California
Ok i purchased some full rear AAL from Rustys for a lift of 2". I also purchased some used front spacers for a cheap lift hopefully. As far as installing the leafs its seems easy but are there any hints or tips. Also as far as the teflon pads am i going to need an extra set for the new leaf, where can i get some i checked autozone , kragen and napa and no one has them. whats the deal with graphite paint ?

Another question is that i am curently parked in a muddy area bc of construction work that is being done in our back yard on the pavement. After all the rain for the past week i have been having to use 4hi to get out on the street off the mud. I usually put the car in reverse and put it into 4hi while not moving and them reverse into the street and then turn off the 4wd once i am back on the street...is this ok, or am i hurting the system by engagin in while not moving and in gear. The reason i ask is bc i am probably gonna have to do this for a while and want to make sure its ok.

My last question is their any modification or something that i can buy that would make the tcase fluid checkable without having to go and loosen that plug and check. I am not sure but on some other tcase i saw a hose that went from the lower plug to the upper and the level was checked that way.

Thanks for all the answers in advance as always.

pete
 
Get graphite paint from a local farm supply (got mine from a local tractor dealership). As for teflon liners, I can't find any either, even at the local spring shops, but I think I'll try these when I finally get around to painting the leaf pack www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=902

I'll probably put a section 6 inches long or so on the end of each leaf.

As for the t-case, you are stuck pulling the upper plug unless you want to fab something yourself, but it's really not that hard to do.
 
ive seen that check mod done to some atlas tcase but never on a 231 or 242. You are not hurting the system by engaging while still. If you want some teflon pads my advice is to go to a junkyard and rip apart a leaf pack and take some. You could go to a spring shop but im not sure if they would sell them outright. Advice on the BB... use strut compressors so you dont have to take off everything in the front. They are scary but speed up the install on spacers. And in the rear.. take your time and dont forgot to clamp the spring pack with c clamps before you take them apart.
 
jeepsrock said:
Another question is that i am curently parked in a muddy area bc of construction work that is being done in our back yard on the pavement. After all the rain for the past week i have been having to use 4hi to get out on the street off the mud. I usually put the car in reverse and put it into 4hi while not moving and them reverse into the street and then turn off the 4wd once i am back on the street...is this ok, or am i hurting the system by engagin in while not moving and in gear. The reason i ask is bc i am probably gonna have to do this for a while and want to make sure its ok.

My last question is their any modification or something that i can buy that would make the tcase fluid checkable without having to go and loosen that plug and check. I am not sure but on some other tcase i saw a hose that went from the lower plug to the upper and the level was checked that way.
Click to expand...

It's not bad to put your t-case into 4H while standing. Also, driving on dry pavement for such a shoret distance isn't bad.

I've seen those tubes you talk about. I'm doing a search for them and when I find it, I'll let everyone know.
 
I just put on a pair of RE AAL's on my 1999 XJ. Working by myself it took about 5 hrs using only hand tools. My advice:
- Lots of penetrating oil on every bolt, especially the shackles
- Have LONG cheater bars for your rachet and box end wrenchs
- Use Craftsmen tools with above cheater bar as you will likely break the rachet - I did - and get the free replacement
- Buy 4 new U bolts - NAPA part # 650-4023 will work on a '99 with enough room left over for the shim that you will need
- You can add the leaf without removing the front leaf bolt. Given what a PITA the rear shackle bolts are, you will figure out how like I did. It's a bit of a puzzle, but it can be done.
- Buy new leaf spring clamps - there're too cheap to justify re-using and trying to fit over the new leaf
- Buy new center pin bolts for same reason as above - Do not use then to tighten leaf pack as you will strip the bolt.
- Have two jacks - one to support the axel and one to push the new leaf pack down when reconnecting the shackle
- Anti-sieze everything because you will be back in there to fine tune shims, etc.
- Consider BPE's to give you a little more travel room if you are keeping your stock shocks. Allow extra time to break upper shock mounting bolts - have drill and tap ready for this step.
- Plan on aligning the front end when you've added the spacers
- You also may want to think about a transfer case drop if your rig is newer than 1996
 
Highmiles said:
I just put on a pair of RE AAL's on my 1999 XJ. Working by myself it took about 5 hrs using only hand tools. My advice:
- Lots of penetrating oil on every bolt, especially the shackles
- Have LONG cheater bars for your rachet and box end wrenchs
- Use Craftsmen tools with above cheater bar as you will likely break the rachet - I did - and get the free replacement
- Buy 4 new U bolts - NAPA part # 650-4023 will work on a '99 with enough room left over for the shim that you will need
- You can add the leaf without removing the front leaf bolt. Given what a PITA the rear shackle bolts are, you will figure out how like I did. It's a bit of a puzzle, but it can be done.
- Buy new leaf spring clamps - there're too cheap to justify re-using and trying to fit over the new leaf
- Buy new center pin bolts for same reason as above - Do not use then to tighten leaf pack as you will strip the bolt.
- Have two jacks - one to support the axel and one to push the new leaf pack down when reconnecting the shackle
- Anti-sieze everything because you will be back in there to fine tune shims, etc.
- Consider BPE's to give you a little more travel room if you are keeping your stock shocks. Allow extra time to break upper shock mounting bolts - have drill and tap ready for this step.
- Plan on aligning the front end when you've added the spacers
- You also may want to think about a transfer case drop if your rig is newer than 1996
Click to expand...
I agree with Highmiles, except:
Don't just soak the bolts, soak them several times for several days in advance.
You can install the extra leaves without undoing the front or rear leaf spring bolts.
Don't just buy those ubolts without checking which axle you have as the D35, D44 and 8.25" axletubes are all different diameters:
D35: 2.67"
D44: 2.75"
8.25": 3.00"
 
my tip for the day...I found the easiest thing to do is grind off the old center bolt on the spring, don't spend time trying to undo it, you need a new center bolt anyway. Other than that, pretty straight forward...good luck
 
Beej said:
I agree with Highmiles, except:
Don't just soak the bolts, soak them several times for several days in advance.
You can install the extra leaves without undoing the front or rear leaf spring bolts.
Don't just buy those ubolts without checking which axle you have as the D35, D44 and 8.25" axletubes are all different diameters:
D35: 2.67"
D44: 2.75"
8.25": 3.00"
Click to expand...

about not removing either of the leaf spring bolts, how does this work? i'd probably go through a little extra work doing thins then getting pissed cause those damn bolts are a PITA. thanks


-dave
 
I think what he is trying to say is that you can leave the main leaf connected to the jeep instead of taking the whole spring pack off, that is what I would do. Do you know what i am saying or do you need a picture?
 
I never thought of leaving the main spring attached - I am sofa-king we todd did. (say aloud in a loud clear voice to amuse your friends).

If you do try to leave the main spring in place, I suggest having several (like 3 or more) C clamps around to hold everything in place. The spring pack weighs something like 50#s and is awkward as anything to maneuver around.

Also, the new spring will have a much greater bend to it than the stocks, so it seems like there's no way it'll ever fit. It does, be patient.

Don't forget to anti-sieze everything before putting it back together. Also, re-check the torque on the bolts - make sure you know the torque spec's.
 
Highmiles said:
If you do try to leave the main spring in place, I suggest having several (like 3 or more) C clamps around to hold everything in place. The spring pack weighs something like 50#s and is awkward as anything to maneuver around.

Also, the new spring will have a much greater bend to it than the stocks, so it seems like there's no way it'll ever fit. It does, be patient.
Click to expand...
Just make sure you use the c-clamps to re-arch the springs to the bend of the AAL. Although it looks like it would work, don't use the center pin to pull the leaf pack together, as it will strip the threads off.
 
The clear tube to check fluid level sounds good, but what chance would that have against a log or tree branch on the trail?

Be nice to your tools and they'll last a long time. I don't know of any self respecting mechanic that would use a cheater bar on a rachet. Loosen it with a breaker bar first. Save the rachet until you can use it as is.
 
Most of us aren't self respecting mechanics. If he is like me a few others. We are weekend (hope we can get it done by monday mechanics). Its a hobby, not a job. :)
 
I used 5/16's grade 8 socket head cap screws(allen wrench) instead of spring center pins. Tightened right up, could actually put some stress on them to help suck the AAL pack into place. Go get one of those 30 dollar plumber torch rigs with the 2 bottles(one gas, one oxygen) Works like the cat's ass for applying some heat. It will really help the process. The first time you do it, it is kind of daunting. After that it is easy.

One thing though, I followed Rusty's directions removing the second longest leaf. My pack sagged down in about 4 months. I put the leaf back in, and now its been almost a year with no sagging.
 
MaXJohnson said:
The clear tube to check fluid level sounds good, but what chance would that have against a log or tree branch on the trail?

Be nice to your tools and they'll last a long time. I don't know of any self respecting mechanic that would use a cheater bar on a rachet. Loosen it with a breaker bar first. Save the rachet until you can use it as is.
Click to expand...
ahh, screw it, that is what the craftsman waranty is for, right ;)
 
Doesnt seem that hard -I didnt have a chance to get to it this weekend maybe next weekend. It seems easy basically pull it apart with clamps...and reinsert with clamps.

As far as tighteneing the u bolts i heard you are supposed to tighten them when the jeep is on the floor anyone have any ideas about this since i am not clear about this ?

Hey howey which aal do u have ? How is it ?

ohh and i already have two center screws from rusty and a pair of spring clips...put in the front or rear ?

pete
 
jeepsrock said:
ohh and i already have two center screws from rusty and a pair of spring clips...put in the front or rear ?

pete
Click to expand...

The new spring clamps go in the front, approx. the same place as the old ones came off. JIM.
 
jeepsrock said:
As far as tighteneing the u bolts i heard you are supposed to tighten them when the jeep is on the floor anyone have any ideas about this since i am not clear about this ?
Click to expand...

Tighten the u-bolts whenever you want but re-tighten them after 20-30 miles of driving.
 
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