Thermostat question

I was wondering when changing a thermostat does the outside have to be turned a certain way for everything to line back up, or just put it in and tighten the 2 bolts back down? I didn't pay too much attention (like an idiot) while taking it out and after changing mine tonight it's leaking around the bottom (sux).

Thanks, Jason

Well, there is only one way for the housing to go. If you got a thermostat with the little bleeder hole in it then I believe the bleeder is pointed down. I would just pull the housing off and slap some more RTV on there and try again. Make sure that all of the surfaces are clean and you should be OK.

The OEM thermostat is a short version of a Chev. thermostat (or universal), low profile to clear the inside of the elbow. Stant used to sell a universal type thermostat (specified for the XJ) that would fit in the housing, but had to be turned to a certain position, to clear or it would crush.
If you have the universal gasket, you have to cut it to fit the OEM gasket (to match the engine side of the mounting surface), which is nearly impossible, because it has a dozen pre perforated holes in it, that fall out.
The feeler (actuator) side of the thermo goes in towards the block. The thermostat is usually marked as to which side goes out.
Your thermo could have sliped and pinched the rim in the housing. Or could be to tall and cruches during tightening. Or the gasket is flawed.
I´ve found it easier to get everything to seat right if I unhook and remove the radiator hose. You can feel easier, when it fits right.
If you over tighten the housing (elbow) it can crack.
The OEM thermo and gasket, make the whole experience much easier.

Karlm said:

Well, there is only one way for the housing to go. If you got a thermostat with the little bleeder hole in it then I believe the bleeder is pointed down. I would just pull the housing off and slap some more RTV on there and try again. Make sure that all of the surfaces are clean and you should be OK.

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I don´t have an extra thermo to go look at, but seem to remember my last one said "top" on it and the bleeder went up. Think it also said which side faced the block or this side out, don´t really remember which.

Thanks, I put some "blue glue" on it tonight and letting it set overnight to see if this helps, if not I'll be heading to the stealer tomorrow for an OEM. I do have the right side toward the block but was really wondering about the bleeder you all are talking about, I'll check for that tomorrow after work if it still leaks.

Thanks, Jason

Bleeder always goes up.

Thanks for clearing that up!


Thanks, Jason

Most likley the T-stat slipped down when you put the housing on.Tighten it down like that can break the housing
Clean out the grouve the stat sets in,place a dab of RTV on the flange of the stat with bleed hole on top and push in place.As mentioned having the hose off helps to position the housing and gasket in place.I use a little sealer on the bolt threads also.
Wayne

Thanks, hopefully I'll "git r' dun" tonight. lol



Thanks, Jason

Dealer OEM for that, tstat and gasket, gasket already has the sealer on it, bleed hole goes at 12 O'Clock to allow air out. Whole thing under $10 at dealer...

Wayne Sihler said:

Most likley the T-stat slipped down when you put the housing on.Tighten it down like that can break the housing
Clean out the grouve the stat sets in,place a dab of RTV on the flange of the stat with bleed hole on top and push in place.As mentioned having the hose off helps to position the housing and gasket in place.I use a little sealer on the bolt threads also.
Wayne

Click to expand...

I would second Wayne's advice. I did a thermostat once and things "looked" fine but it leaked. Took me three tries before a friend came over and said the stat was most likely slipping out of place even though it "looked" okay. He told me to put a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on it to hold it onto the (engine) hole and then place the housing over top of it. Worked like a charm. No leaks. Hurray!

Got it! Heat still isn't hot, now I'm looking into other heater prob threads. Thanks for all your help!


Jason

As for the heater problem, warm up the engine and then grab the little bellcrank (lever) on the heater control valve and make sure it is all the way open. They have a way of sticking after a long summer.

I just put one dab of the RTV b/w the t stat and the block... worked great for me.