Master Cylinder replacement after disc swap?

V

verrive

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Ellensburg, WA

• Nov 29, 2004

• #1

I finally got my disc swap done on my D44 but I have a question now. My dad is flipping out thinking I am going to die(well not die but get in an accident or two) this winter because when I was testing my brakes, I'd lock up my fronts but my rears wouldn't lock up. So he wants me to look into a MC swap so here I am. Would a MC from a GC be ideal?

Thanks,
Kevin

 

J

jjvande

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Albuquerque NM 505 burque

• Nov 29, 2004

• #2

what year do you have?

I have an '88 with the d44, rubicon disc swap, and i recently added a Booster/master/prop valve out of a 2004 rubicon TJ. bolted right up besides a few custom brake lines from the master to the valve. made a HUGE improvement in power.

your other option is to remove the small rubber seal inside your prop valve and see if you like it.

look at madxj.com

 

R

rust bucket xj

NAXJA Forum User

Location

allentown pa

• Nov 29, 2004

• #3

take the o ring out of the prop valve...


You are gonna be hard off fitting anything in an xj other than an xj booster/mc.

If you want to upgrade, an old body style get a 95/96 booster, pedal, brake light switch, mc, prop valve, ds front hardline, and the alum spacer for the booster.


But the fronts should lock up before the rear, they work harder and should be doing more of the stopping. Just remove the oring, i never did anything and have been happy wiht the way it stops, its finally predictable

 

xj92

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Junction City, KS

• Nov 29, 2004

• #4

Where is the o-ring in the prop valve? How worried should a person be that the front and rear are no longer separate without it?

 

C

cherokeekid

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Little Elm Texas

• Nov 29, 2004

• #5

The ZJ/TJ/WJ master booster combo should also swap in, we did a WJ in Tims and I've seen ZJ and XJ's swapped.

Pull the o-ring and go from there. I have a booster master from a newer XJ if you can't find one.

 

J

jjvande

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Albuquerque NM 505 burque

• Nov 29, 2004

• #6

the one i used from a 2004 TJ even allowed me to use the older style brake switch..the rod was nearly identical accept i had to drill out the hole.

 

A

ashmanjeepxj

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy

• Nov 29, 2004

• #7

If you pull out the Proportioning valved your rear tires will mostlikely lockup before the fronts!

You will want to keep your booter and MC, and add an external adjustable proportional valve, Wilwood (sp?) makes a good one.

If you pedal feals two squishie you should get a larger bore MC. but I dont think that is your issue.

 

Avanteone

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Auburn, WA

• Nov 29, 2004

• #8

I'm running stock master cylinder with my 8.8/disks, with the rubber removed from the proportioning valve and my brakes work great. On VERY hard emergency-type stops the rears wanna lock up first. I've got an adjustable proportioning valve sitting on the bench I'm gonna install, just haven't gotten to it yet. To pull the o-ring, remove the nut/cap on the end of the proportioning valve, all the guts will come out of the valve, a spring and stuff. Remove the O-ring and reassemble.

John

 

witt

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Riverside/San Jose--Cali

• Nov 29, 2004

• #9

my brake pedal feels mushy..... i recently bled my entire brake system (comeplete 100% flush)
my pedal will go down 1/2 way b4 i actually start slowing down.... but after 1/2 way down.. it stops fine.... (i can lock up 33's @ 75mph)
normal?

what would pulling the o-ring do?
got a pic of what o-ring to pull?

 

Last edited: Nov 29, 2004

V

verrive

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Ellensburg, WA

• Nov 29, 2004

• #10

If I pull the o-ring though doesn't that make it so that if I lose the front brakes persay, the rear will go to? Not having an e-brake makes me wonder if that would be a great idea, this is my DD