Won't start after timing

here's the deal-

engine ran fine....took off distributer to replace Oring.....put it back together....started fine and idled fine, but rough and stuttery at 1500rpm +, ran for 20 mins....figured i had rotated the ditributer a click when i slid it back in. :dunce: took it out and moved it a click in the direction i believed i had rotated it and reinstalled. wouldn't turn over...just belch...pop..belch. :doh: decided to yank the distributer out and redo the whole deal. rotated crank lining up timing mark with "0" on cover(#1cyl at TDC), rotated rotor to point at 4oclock position,slid in distributer moving rotor to 5 oclock position which points rotor at #1 sparkplug, reassembled. now it cranks over just fine but won't fire. :confused1 :helpme: i have no clue. any suggestions would be much appreciated
Thank You- Loop

You are most likely 180 degrees out now. There are two TDC's of the crank per distributor revolution.

old man- so what do i do? get the timing mark at 0 ....yank out my distributer.....and then crank it over by hand one complete revolution until the mark lines up again with 0 ...then slide the distributer back in ??? and thanks you for you reply

loop said:

old man- so what do i do? get the timing mark at 0 ....yank out my distributer.....and then crank it over by hand one complete revolution until the mark lines up again with 0 ...then slide the distributer back in ??? and thanks you for you reply

Click to expand...

Yes, that's exactly what you do (just in case Old man is off his computer, another old fart chimes in) . As far as getting the distributor just right, you may still have to experiment a notch at a time. When I did this with my 87, there were three positions in which it would run at all. One tooth too advanced, it would start hard if at all, but run well if it started. Just right was just right of course, and one tooth too retarded, it would start beautifully, but not run above idle, popping and backfiring and stalling. I'm guessing from your description that when you first did this, you skipped directly from one back to one forward and missed "just right." Because the rotor turns as you install the distributor, it can be pretty tricky to get it right the first time. Remember too that you may have to try a couple of times to get the oil pump slot turned just right too.

Mathew Currie & old man- thank you both so much for the replies and the help. worked out great...runs fine again. i was just frustrated because that distributer oring was the very last item in my main seal/oil pan/ valve cover/oil filter adapter "leak ender" regimine and i had to rip apart the front suspension to get the pan off. threw on some new brake pads and rotors and shock bushings and was READY to have it back together, running, and in my driveway instead of in the garage. thanks again guys :cheers:

A jeep that doesn't leak. I've got to see this.

Sounds like a CH-46 - as long as it's leaking it's safe, but when the leaks stop you've got problems because that reservoir is now empty...