I have a 1993 jeep cherokee with 170000 miles. straight 6 that ran very well. Well...i decided to take it for a spin in the mud. I hit a large puddle at about 35 and then my oil pressure went down so i cut the motor, got out and discovered two large holes in the bottom of the oil pan. I assume i threw a rod. The intake had water but the plugs were dry. What do u guys think went wrong and how much?? thanks
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engine takes dump
- Thread starter creed4017
- Start date
- Location
- Terra Firma
Sounds like you got some water into a couple of cylinders. Water doesn't compress, so this is not a good thing. At low RPM if you're lucky it may just hydrolock and stall, and if you blow all the water out it may start and run. Do it at higher RPM and it usually trashes a piston and/or breaks a rod. Or, in your case, a couple of rods.
To diagnose whether or not the engine is rebuildable will require a tear-down to inspect the crank and the cylinder walls. Even if the bores look okay, you should have the block sonic tested or magnafluxed to look for microscopic cracks.
Or just buy a junkyard motor or a rebuilt and install it. That's the way I would go.
To diagnose whether or not the engine is rebuildable will require a tear-down to inspect the crank and the cylinder walls. Even if the bores look okay, you should have the block sonic tested or magnafluxed to look for microscopic cracks.
Or just buy a junkyard motor or a rebuilt and install it. That's the way I would go.
imma honky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
J-yard motor will run anywhere from 150-600 bucks around here. To tear it down yourself is just time, but putting it back together (if you don't have to replace anything) will be a couple hundred bucks. Now if you pay a shop to do it......well, you might just want to buy a new/used motor. (this is based on my knowledge around my area).
the only reason i think that a rod made the holes....well actually rips in the oil pan is that the metal is going outware from the motor not inward as a rock would of caused. Time is of the essence and a budget of about 700 wil have to make due right now.. any sugesstions?
imma honky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
I paid 450 for my master rebuild kit (pistons and all). All I need now is time.
- Location
- Terra Firma
www.car-part.comcreed4017 said:
Start looking for a junkyard engine. If you rebuild your engine without testing for hidden damage, you might spend your entire budget on a motor that will last a week, or a month, ... or it might last ten years. It's a gamble. Your block may be cracked. Other pistons and/or rods may be cracked. You just don't know. Or you can rebuild it right, with all new parts and testing and professional machine shop work, and it'll cost you two to three times what your budget is. Plus I'm guessing that you have never built an engine before, so you're going to need professional assistance or guidance.
Find the lowest mileage Jeep engine you can that's in your price range. The years that will match up easiest with your computer and injection system are 1991 through 1995.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
You would be better just to get a lower mileage junk yard engine that they will guarantee for 30 days or so. If it's going to puke, you can pretty much bet 30 days will do it. Most junk yard engines have compression numbers and that is a good indication of what you are getting. With only $700, I would get the best engine you could find, do virtually nothing to it and just swap it.
See if the junk yard will let you pull the pan on the engine. Take someone who really knows motors with you to look at what's in the pan. It also doesn't hurt to clean the sludge out. If you have an extra hundred bucks, and the compression is good. I might plastigage the crank and see what shape the bearings are in. If they are a little worn, but the crank is still in good shape, you might be able to give the engine more life by stuffing some new bearings without a crank grind. But if you don't understand engines WELL I recommend just swapping the engine and take your chances.
If there are holes in the pan, you have most likely thrown a rod, maybe put a hole in the block and severely stressed the crank, if not broken it. If it is because you sucked in water, then you probably also bent a valve or two. There really isn't much to rebuild. Especially on a $700 budget.
Hit the wanted forums here, you might get lucky with a fellow XJ'er that is pretty local.
See if the junk yard will let you pull the pan on the engine. Take someone who really knows motors with you to look at what's in the pan. It also doesn't hurt to clean the sludge out. If you have an extra hundred bucks, and the compression is good. I might plastigage the crank and see what shape the bearings are in. If they are a little worn, but the crank is still in good shape, you might be able to give the engine more life by stuffing some new bearings without a crank grind. But if you don't understand engines WELL I recommend just swapping the engine and take your chances.
If there are holes in the pan, you have most likely thrown a rod, maybe put a hole in the block and severely stressed the crank, if not broken it. If it is because you sucked in water, then you probably also bent a valve or two. There really isn't much to rebuild. Especially on a $700 budget.
Hit the wanted forums here, you might get lucky with a fellow XJ'er that is pretty local.
jeepguy97
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- clearfield, pa
I know its not very helpful in AK, but I just went to Harrys-u-pull (where everything is under a hundred bucks) it today and found two perfectly fine 4.0s for $79.99. If you look, you can usually find a steal that actually runs half decent, and at this point half decent is far better than what you have.
- Location
- Terra Firma
I gave you the best source: www.car-part.comcreed4017 said:
You said you have a budget of $700. A rebuilt long block is going to cost you between $1600 and $2500, plus shipping, plus shipping to return your old block to them. Then you get to pay for installation.
For your budget, junkyard is what you're left with, and the link I gave you is where to start.
nate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Anchorage, Alaska
jeepguy97 said:
AK is Alaska.
- Location
- Terra Firma
Eagle said:
- Location
- Alexandria, NJ
Eagle said:
FWIW, especially for any lurkers reading this thread thinking about engine replacement - here's some current info for reference:
I just replaced my 4.0 with a remanufactured long block from Power Pro http://www.powerpro2000.com/
$1614 for an "AMC 4.0/242 92-95 engine" plus $295 core charge. Their price INCLUDES shipping, and INCLUDES pick-up and return shipping of the core.
Warranty is 3 years/unlimited miles. Engine is complete, except for valve cover, timing chain cover, oil pump pick-up (new pump itself IS included), oil pan. All internals (valves, rods, cylinders, pistons, etc.) are new.
Engine is pre-run at factory, and a "birth certificate" of test run data is included.
BTW, it appears that "Power Pro" is also affiliated with ATK on the west coast.
Engine looked good and installation went smoothly. Although it's too soon to really tell (only 325 new miles), so far so good. There was nothing about the product/quality that made me nervous.
Mike in NJ
atriot:JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
Mike in NJ said:
I highly doubt your connecting rods are new. Probably resized, as is common practice. And if your cylinders are new, that means you have a brand spanking new engine block. (extremely unlikely)
- Location
- Alexandria, NJ
JJacobs said:
Sorry, typed the examples too fast. Not the cylinders of course, but the rods, pistons, rings, rod & cam & main bearings, cam shaft, rocker arms, valve springs, timing chain, and oil pump are all new.
Mike in NJ
atriot: