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Cooling woes

woody431

woody431

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Virden, IL
Just recently I've replaced my radiator with a CSF, changed my hoses, put a 180 t-stat in, 50/50 mix, and I think thats it. My temp still raises over 210 when idling, but the elec. fan does kick on and the temp goes down, but I really don't want to let it get that hot. I want it to stay at or around 210. What is there left to do? New H2O pump, clutch fan, water wetter?? The system was burped and theres no air in it. I don't want to hack into the hood with vents quite yet, but Id rather solve this problem rather than just put a bandage on it. Any suggestions?
 
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this is a typical story of almost any xj. I am on my second right now, and like you, idle kicks the temp right up to red, esp in traffic. I 'm not sure if there is anything you can really do. I considered going to an electric fan setup, but from what i hear they turn out to be a pain in the butt. Anyhow, I know this wasn't much help, but just no that your not alone...
 
Yeah, I've read alot on here, but I didnt find any definite suggestion. I don't really know if there is too much left to replace..well I guess there is, but that depends on the wallet.
 
Have you checked to see if your fan clutch is worn? I replaced mine and I can definitely tell a difference at idle. Water wetter also helped a little too.
 
My bad, mine is a 95 also. The fan clutch seemed good when I replaced the radiator. It was within the last 3000 miles I know for a fact but the exact date I can't remember. I was going to wire the elec fan to a switch, but that again is just a temporary solution. I guess a water pump is in store?
 
before i did the flush on my 88 xj... i added a bottle of water wetter... no difference in temp... still over heated... added another bottle... same results...


some of the guys from the local race track swear by it... but it didnt do anything for my xj..... some might have read my post on the rad flush.... that did the job... today she stayed well within temp specs. just have cheap coolant in for now... and the temps have been around 100 degrees outside.... I plan on doing a second flush next weekend and finish replacing some other stuff. I know some favor the water wetter... all it did for me was relieve my wallet of 15 bucks.
 
Water Wetter isn't designed to make up for a faulty cooling system. It just aids a healthy one. Basically everything in my cooling system was replaced before I added the Water Wetter. My XJ never overheated before, the Water Wetter just keeps it about 5 degrees cooler in heavy traffic.
 
Well, before I replaced all my stuff I used water wetter and it didn't help. Should I buy a new h2o pump or try having my system flushed first?
 
Try the water pump and go back to a 195* t-stat.

So, you have or havent ahd the fan clutch replaced recently? If not, you need to do that. They lose around 500rpm per year.

Fergie
 
Something else to consider, if you have AC make sure the condensor isn't full of bugs and road grit. When I pulled mine out it was jam packed full of junk and my temps dropped significantly after that. Also by over 210, how high is it getting? Figure 200-210 is normal, so 10-15 degree higher isn't a big deal at all.
 
woody431 said:
Just recently I've replaced my radiator with a CSF, changed my hoses, put a 180 t-stat in, 50/50 mix, and I think thats it. My temp still raises over 210 when idling, but the elec. fan does kick on and the temp goes down, but I really don't want to let it get that hot. I want it to stay at or around 210. What is there left to do? New H2O pump, clutch fan, water wetter?? The system was burped and theres no air in it. I don't want to hack into the hood with vents quite yet, but Id rather solve this problem rather than just put a bandage on it. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Hood vents won't help you anyway so don't bother unless you like the looks. They'll reduce underhood temps. but not the coolant temp. A new water pump isn't going to help you either, except to lighten your wallet for nothing.
If your coolant gauge is only going up to 220* at idle before the electric fan switches on and then it comes down to 200*, that's normal.
If the temp. is going above 220* at idle, your fan clutch is probably shot. You can either replace it with a new one or gain 3hp and 1mpg by converting to dual electric fans.
 
Ditto what a couple have already said. If it goes to the red, or close to it, at idle you have a problem. But, if it just goes to 210-220 that is completely normal. The electric fan is set to come on at 210, so the factory wasn't concerned with that temp range.
 
I had same problem as you and attacked the most expensive/time consuming fixes first (bad strategy). Ended up being a clogged rad and clutch fan. The clutch fan is something like $40 at pep boys. Sometimes they look Ok visually, but actually don't always pull the air they're supposed to after a few years. Mine was a '96. I actually installed a fan spacer from Summit Racing which robs me of some hp but cools consistently. I put in a single row aluminum rad, too. I towed my 3500 lb boat in stop/go traffic and up steep grades in 100* weather and the jeep didn't go over 210*. Prior to that, it boiled over in no load conditions w/bad clutch fan and new Modine 3-row.
 
I should probably replace the clutch fan sometime soon. It raises close to 220 but I just dont feel comfortable letting it get that hot even if it is normal. It has never redlined though.

Im pretty sure the condensor is full of bugs, i was gonna blow it out, but I forgot, I guess I will when I replace the clutch fan. Thanks for all the help!
 
Do yourself a favor and put the stock stat back in and make sure the WHOLE system is working properly. I had a 185* t-stat and water wetter in my '89, while they both helped, my temp was not stable (ran between 160 and 220*) and it would still get warm and even overheat while towing up a grade. I put the stock t-stat back in and, while it now runs at 208-212*, the temp has'nt spiked under load, not even while towing my tent trailer up a grade at a slow speed.
 
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Before you dump a lot of money, check to see if the gauge is accurate. I was chasing an overheating problem and after changing everything under the sun I found that the gauge was not accuratel, it was about 30 degrees too high. just my .02 but it is something i would check.
 
Well, I've already dumped a chunk of money into replacing things, I did this because I was going to do it sooner or later. Whats a good way to check the gauge accuracy? It wouldnt surprise me if it was off, but I have the 180 t-stat in and I had the rad. cap off while it was running and when it got to the hashmark before 210, it opened up and coolant flowed. So i'm assuming it's on the mark, but my voltage gauge is off which is not a big deal, but if that gauge is off, then maybe another one is also.
 
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