Started Install of my RE 3.5" 6030

So far install has gone pretty smooth (although it has taken longer than I had expected, approx 12 hours for rear and hack and tap SYE). I have the rear totally completed (looks ridiculous right now) But I have some slight driveshaft vibration I think. I installed the RE hack and tap and a high angle driveshaft with 4 degree shims with full RE leaf packs. Is this vibration due to not having any weight in the back? Even with the 4 degree shim the pinion doesnt quite point in line with the driveshaft. The only problem I had with the rear is when I took the U joints off one side and loosened them on the other. The axle spun and it snapped the new longer RE brake line. I had to drive 90 miles roundtrip just to find someone who had an YJ rear brake hose in stock. I felt pretty dumb after this.

Does anyone have any suggestions for doing the front? I have bought a JKS tracbar and have fixed LCAs, adjustable UCAs, 3/4" spacers and JKS disconnects. Can I do one control arm at a time? I already have installed my longer brake hoses. I'm just worried about getting the control arms to line up so I can bolt them in.

Do each control arm one at a time, that way it only takes a slight adjustment to get the holes to line up, instead of trying to wrestle with the whole axle. Save installing the trackbar for last, but take out the stock one first so you can get the rest of the front end done before installing the JKS trackbar.

GottaBeJeep said:

Do each control arm one at a time, that way it only takes a slight adjustment to get the holes to line up, instead of trying to wrestle with the whole axle. Save installing the trackbar for last, but take out the stock one first so you can get the rest of the front end done before installing the JKS trackbar.

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Since I have fixed lcas and adjustable ucas, do you know the approx length I need to set the uppers at with 3/4" spacer and 3.5 RE springs?

danald said:

Since I have fixed lcas and adjustable ucas, do you know the approx length I need to set the uppers at with 3/4" spacer and 3.5 RE springs?

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Stock 15" length at least until you get to 5" lift, then you go to a whopping 15.25" UCA

Pretty much what Yucca said, but since they are adjustable, you can fine tune the caster once you get a printout of your alignment. 3 full turns on the adj. RE arms equals 1/4", so you could do 1.5" turns and set it at 15 1/8", because with the RE 3.5" kit and 3/4" spacer, you will be sitting pretty close to 5"+.

What should I do about my vibrating drive shaft? It starts to vibrate at 55 when I have my foot on the gas pedal? I already have a 4* shim in place.

danald said:

What should I do about my vibrating drive shaft? It starts to vibrate at 55 when I have my foot on the gas pedal? I already have a 4* shim in place.

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Did you use an Angle Guage to determine if you needed that 4*shim? I put the same shim in my 2000 and I got lucky with it being correct.

I would also finish lifting the front before you cruise around in your half lifted rig, maybe this contributed to the problem. If it still vibrates buy some longer bolts and washers and drop your t-case an inch.

I have the same lift installed on my XJ and it sits nose heavy, if I did it again I would have added a coil spacer when I had it all apart.

Hope This Helps

Silver Bullet said:

Did you use an Angle Guage to determine if you needed that 4*shim? I put the same shim in my 2000 and I got lucky with it being correct.

I would also finish lifting the front before you cruise around in your half lifted rig, maybe this contributed to the problem. If it still vibrates buy some longer bolts and washers and drop your t-case an inch.

I have the same lift installed on my XJ and it sits nose heavy, if I did it again I would have added a coil spacer when I had it all apart.

Hope This Helps

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How would not doing the front lift have anything to do with the rear driveshaft? As far as the shim goes, should I try a 6* or a 2*