Do I have these hoses correct?

Replaced the coolant bottle on my '88 4.0 XJ this afternoon in addition to the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses. Just want to make sure I have everything going to the correct places.

Long hose comes out of the t-stat housing and connects to the "T" fitting. One ouput of the "T" fitting goes to the top port for the heater core and the other goes to hte bottom port on the coolant bottle.

The other hose comes out of the engine and connects to the heater valve. One port of the heater valve (the one w/out the actual valve) connects to the top port on the collant bottle and the other port on the heater valve (the one that actually has the valve) connects to the bottom port on the heater core.

Do I have everything going to the right places???

Can find the drain in the block though?? Any hints?

I started the Jeep and let it idle for over ten minutes. The temp gauge never even came close to the 210 mark.

Thanks.

Brian

GW204,

Yes, the heater hoses on the "closed" cooling system can be confusing with 6 sections and all. I found the heater hoses from the dealer were the only ones that really fit well, the aftermarket make the engine look sloppy.

This may help you understand the routing. The hot coolant leaves the engine under pressure through the hose connected to the thermostat housing. The coolant flows along until it comes to the heater control valve.

The heater control valve has 3 nipples. The hose from the thermostat housing, the small hose to the upper port on the pressure bottle, and the hose to the heater core connect. You will use that short 90 degree bend hose that 5/8" on both ends to connect to the heater core to the heater control valve.

The tube with 3 nipples and no valve is used for the return, think of the water pump sucking it back into the engine. The hose out of the bottom of the pressure tank, the heater core hose, and the hose connected to the tube out of the water pump connect to this hose. You will use that straight hose that 3/4 on one end and 5/8 on the other for the heater core to wye fitting connection.

The block drain is on the driver's side of the block, about cylinder #5 and an inch above the oil pan. YOu will need a 5/8 inch plug tool to get the drain out. I have never tried to remove my drain, but now I own the tool so I may try next time.

An alternate drain plug it to pull the engine temp sensor behind the engine mount bracker and an inch above the oil.

Also did you follow the CraigH procedures on filling the engine to get the air out and flushing the heater core to get the rust out? I posted the links in the past week.

I am also sure you know to fill the new coolant bottle COLD so the coolant level is at the top of that stud molded into the tank.

HTH

Martin

Martin,

Thanks for the info. I got the hoses figured out. However, I noticed a leak in the connection to the plastic heater valve and when I snugged the hose clamp down just a bit more...KABOOM! Off to the scrap yard tomorrow....

I'll look into the drain plug tomorrow morning.

I followed both Craig's procedures and I have heat again!!! It was a rough winter friving around in an XJ w/ no heat...

Thanks again for the info.

Brian

GW,

IF you have to buy a new heater valve you will be given grief. The parts manuals do not have the valve listed correctly in their cross references - been there already. Every web site and store has it wrong, so everyone uses the same wrong data. If you order what they say you will only get a unit with 2 nipples not 3.

I went to the ACdelco site and found I needed AC PN 15-5821. They also list PN 15-5221 do NOT buy this valve it won't work. Do be surpised if it takes the parts store a day or two to get the right valve. This actually worked to my advantage since the wrong valve was $16 and finally when the right one came in with a price of $31 the guy charge me $16 since they did not get the right valve the first time.

I know there are aftermarket all metal valves. I looks like the AC delco valve is the OEM so it was either made by AC or AC purchased it from the OEM manufacturer.

I purchased a valve at the junk yard but it did not close all the way but it was better than my non-working valve - i was not getting heat in winter. I installed the new valve when I was doing some cooling system work, may of lost an ounce of coolant.

Just another lesson I learned. You might as well take advantage of my experience.

Martin

i'll have to echo what martin said about the junkyard valves... every one of them I found (3 or 4) were in sad to unusable condition, expecially the plastic parts. save yourself the hassle and buy a new valve.