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DIY SYE cheap

old_man

NAXJA Forum User
Anybody interested in a SYE for an NP231 that is simple, cheap, and tough?

Here is the teaser. I will give you guys the details in a day or two when I get all the pix done. Here is an early pix of the prototype. Some scrounging and a $40 companion flange and a bit of work will yield you a good SYE.

sye.jpg


Here's the link
 
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Sweet Tom! But my guess is your not in sales. You need to charge some outrageous amount to have any credibility. ;)
 
The conversion works on early model 231's. The ones with the two piece tailcones, not the ones that look like this. The quick and dirty is that you use the new tailcone on the old cases. There are a few tricks/issues. If you still have a vacuum disco, you will have to give it up. Details to follow.
 
You guys are asking too many questions :twak:

The shiny part is a companion flange from Currie $39.95

Details will follow tomorrow. I've got to get some sleep. By the way, the other part is a Spicer part and allows you to mate the companion flange to a standard type driveshaft dual cardan joint. You can make a driveshaft for cheap as well.


For posterity, I want this called the Old_Man Sye :angel: Just kidding.
 
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if this is as cheap and easy as it looks, you should start a PayPal fund. I'd be happy to pitch in $5 for your efforts in figuring it out.

one more question for now, answer later if you like; do you know the application for that Spicer part? It would be nice to use as many junkyard parts as possible.
 
I'm not in this for the money. I know what its like to be poor and not be able to fix your rig the way you want, and coming from a farm backgroung, I've got to build it myself and so much the better if I can design it. That's what I do for a living. I'm a EE/CS/ME and a tool and die maker.

The key is to first get youself a tailcone from a newer NP-231 that looks like this. I've been able to purchase them used on the net for $25 but this is where the scrounging comes in. There are lots around where guys replaced them doing a high $$$ SYE. You just got to look.

There is a mod that has to be done, but it is simple and I even have the seals figured out. I've been running it for about 6 months to test it and love it.

tailcone.jpg
 
awesome! for you final writeup please include the mods to the tailhousing (of course) and the Spicer part number for that one piece, and the application if you know it. And maybe some tips on where to get the tailhousings cheap, eBay, JU?
 
Here is a quick and dirty writeup without pictures or diagrams and no part numbers yet. I will finish those tomorrow. Have fun. Hope it isn't too boring.

UPDATE.......It now has pictures and part numbers

http://www.4x4getaways.com
 
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AWESOME idea. Off to read the writeup now...
 
read it-- thanks much for doing this for us.

Can't wait for specifics. I got rid of the vacuum disco long ago.

Read your article on longarms, too. It seems to stop at the installation of the coupling nuts in the tubing. Anything further on that?
 
Old_man,

It sounds as if you're leading people astray with your cost estimates. Your seutp is nothing new and a search on custom SYE's on www.naxja.org will yield many of us who have been running a setup like you have described for years. In reality the cost of this setup is not $40 like you seem to be implying...

You did not factor in the cost of a rear tail cone from a 1996+ t-case if the individual requires it. On yours it had no seal so you had to powdercoat the housing to allow the seal you had to fit...powdercoating = $$. The hack and tap SYE kit that rubicon Express sells is $99 which includes the bolt, tap, and SYE flange. You can buy this flange for $60 I believe although you purchased yours from currie at $40. If you buy the flange alone you have to have a tap which can also be an expense for someone who does not. Considering not eveyone has spare front driveshafts laying around this is also a part that may have to be purchased...on top of which the spicer flange mount to double cardan joint adapter which is about $30. A search will yield part numbers for this flange and vehicles which used them so they can be found a wrecking yards. Now you proceed to lengthen the driveshaft yourself? Perhaps for a trail rig this would be adequate but if you manage to lengthen a driveshaft yourself without it causing vibes on a daily driver then it was pure luck and should be acknowledged as such. Driveshaft legthening the proper way with balancing is NOT CHEAP. It's actually quite pricey for a shaft like that.

My intention was not to put down what you have done as your ingenuity has yielded a very cool custom SYE. I just think it should be pointed out that the total cost far exceeds $40 and the custom driveshaft work should not be performed by a shadetree mechanic on a daily driver.
 
Bender said:
Old_man,

Driveshaft legthening the proper way with balancing is NOT CHEAP. It's actually quite pricey for a shaft like that.

I had my stock rear shaft lengthened by Advanced Drivelines and it ran me about $200. Just an idea on the price.
Tylor
 
Bender, here is my rebuttal to your comments. First off, if you've had such a good idea as this, why haven't you shared it with everybody???? All I am trying to do is to show alternatives. Other than the $4 seal, and the nut and washer, and the $40 flange, I scrounged all the rest. I expect that anyone that is going to do something of this magnitude will have a drill and can lay hands on a bit and tap. That's like saying that a longarm kit should be quoted with a welder.

As for the powder coating, yes I have a powder coater. This can be done with other types of paint as well as you would have found out from the finished article. I actually used Hammerite on one of the protos. You have to be careful on what paint you use because the ATF will attack many of them.

Yes my idea was motivated by the use of a flange only on the newer t-cases. Those with early model cases don't have that option. They have to buy the casting as well. The hack-n-tap for the early cases is more than $40+ dollars. On the later case, the flange is way too far from the support bearing for my liking.

Yes, I lengthen and shorten drive shafts. It's not called luck, it called expertise and experience. I've been machining and fabing for longer than you have probably been alive. I can get a shaft balanced locally for $42 if I am off a bit. Heck, I can get a shaft shortened and balanced for $110. The biggest thing is to take an already balanced shaft and in the lengthening, keep everything balanced. If you follow a few steps, it can be done without problem. If it vibrates, it is normally because you didn't get it welded straight. That can be tweaked with a torch and water. Notice I said that this is how I do mine, and that it isn't for everybody. It can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Hell, its got to be better than the square tubing solutions that people are building. As for my credentials, I've made my living as a EE/CS/ME and tool and die maker for 35+ years. Heck, you just said it cost you $200 to lengthen a shaft. What I propose is to try it yourself and invest maybe $5 in a piece of chromolly and a bit of time. If it works fine. Maybe all you do is make a trail spare. The worst that happens is that if it vibrates, you can still spend the $200 and have a shop fix it.

Right now, I am trying to nail down exactly what junk yard shafts can be modified without having to hack them. It appears that there are certain Bronco shafts that work quite well. I want to get people thinking out of the box. One of my aims is to get a bunch of guys to start looking at driveshafts from donor rigs in the yards and understand that the ends can be changed to fit.

Maybe to you saving $50 - $100 on a sye or $100 on a shaft isn't a big deal, or being able to say you did it yourself, but to many it is a big deal. So I kindly ask you to back off and let some people learn some things. I'm not selling anything. I'm giving away information. They will get enough info to make an informed decision on what way they want to go.

Yes, this article is probably going to piss off some manufacturers and shops because it is going to take some work away from them. I say, get over it. We live in a world where everybody has to compete and adapt. I am now competing agains't $.50 an hour engineers from China. That is one of the reasons why I do things myself. Money isn't as easy to make as it once was. Bottom line, the guy who is going to do this is the type who doesn't normally pay others to do things for him anyway.

I've been working a deal with a driveline manufacturer to manufacture a different output yoke instead of the companion flange. That way it will bolt to a standard front Cherokee drive shaft. You could then use one shaft as a spare for both front and rear. I don't have the $$$ to fund the purchase of the quantity that the initial order requires. I am not doing this to make any $$$. If we can get a bulk buy going to get a new part setup that can save everybody a lot of $$$ then fine. I would like one myself but that will be some time in the future and what I have proposed is a good workable solution that is definately cheaper that what's out there if the person is willing to scrounge a bit. No this is not an out of the box, slap it on project. That's what makes it fun.
 
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I, and many others, QUITE agree Tom.

Count me in on the bulk buy.
 
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