Tricks for reattaching UCA

Hey folks,
Couldn't find any complete posts on this through searches so here's the issue: I unbolted the UCA's and trackbar to install rusty's 3 inch coils and I'm having a little trouble getting the passenger side UCA matched up and rebolted. I know, I know, I didn't need to unbolt them in the first place, but this is my first lift done in the driveway (done a few on lifts before). I took some bad advice on getting the springs in and I've spent a few hours just to get the tracbar and driver's upper back in.
Anyway, I've tried ratchet straps to pull the axle back, tried jacking up the axle, and a few other simple things to get the lower bolt hole lined up on the passenger side UCA. It's still about an inch off. I've usually done my work at post auto shops with all the tools I could ever want, though I do have to admit that not paying the small hourly fees and the ability to drink while working makes the driveway method more fun... :roll: Are there any good techniques I could try to get this UCA back on? After that it's just installing shocks and the JKS disconnects and I'm back in the tall jeep crowd! Until then I'll have to settle for taking the V-rod to work. Thanks for the help!
Jeremy

Couldn't get it with a ratchet strap? I've used a block of wood and driven into it in 4-lo in order to force the axle a certain direction. Helps to have 2 people so one can drive and the other can watch the hole alignment. Can also use the power steering to manipulate it to some extent, but that's usually just for small amounts... not an inch. Good luck.

I just had to replace my LCAs by myself. I blocked the front axle behind and then put the xj into reverse just enough to roll the axle back where the LCA would slide in. Going forward against the blocks would roll the axle the other way. BE VERY CAREFUL doing this!!! It really worked very well.

I use an 18" pipe wrench and floor jack to adjust / remove my control arms. With your rig on the ground, place the pipewrench around the axle tube nearest the arm you want to remove; and then with the end of the handle resting on the pad of a floor jack, crank it up slightly until the axle rotates just enough to slip the bolts out. Works like a breeze. I can adjust both my UCA's in less than 10 minutes using this method...

The axle needs to rotate to line up (you may already know this). Hook one end of your ratchet strap to the bumper (or the cross member depending on which way it needs to go) and the other end to the top of one of the UCA brackets. You should be able to rotate it enough using a ratchet strap to attach the other UCA ... if the ratchet strap will not work, try using a "come along".

Be careful ... hope this helps.

Les

Danno said:

I just had to replace my LCAs by myself. I blocked the front axle behind and then put the xj into reverse just enough to roll the axle back where the LCA would slide in. Going forward against the blocks would roll the axle the other way. BE VERY CAREFUL doing this!!! It really worked very well.

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what he said

use a comealong, wrap it under the axle and around to the top so that it will twist the axle as you pull from the front and over the top and under if you pull from the rear

ive done this twice by myself.. its a PIA but i use the bottle jack from under the rear seat... rig on jack stands (obviously) floor jack under the knuckle... bottle jack from the axle spring perch/LCA mount to the frame end LCA mount.. sitting parrallel to the LCA.... between the floor jack and the bottle jack you can rotate the axle as needed.. just a note though.. the bottle jack doesnt like to work upsidedown...

mike

Force the axle to articulate to one side or the other (jack under one side of the axle, body on jackstands). Works and is safe.

myjeepsbigger said:

Force the axle to articulate to one side or the other (jack under one side of the axle, body on jackstands). Works and is safe.

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I have jacked 1 side up/down to get the axle to line up correctly. The track bar is harder because it controls the lateral movement of the axle. I've also leg pressed the axle to move slightly when I needed by laying on my side and press the axle and then get the bolt to go through the mount. A hi-lift, come along, etc would do the same thing. It is much easier with multiple people, but I was doing it solo as well.
Troy

steinjeep said:

I have jacked 1 side up/down to get the axle to line up correctly. The track bar is harder because it controls the lateral movement of the axle.

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Let me see if I understand you correctly. You had your trackbar connected and then tried to connect an UCA? If doing this during a lift, the trackbar should be one of the last things connected, and preferably after the Jeep is on the ground to allow you to steer lock-to-lock and center the Jeep over the axle.

Ivan said:

I use an 18" pipe wrench and floor jack to adjust / remove my control arms. With your rig on the ground, place the pipewrench around the axle tube nearest the arm you want to remove; and then with the end of the handle resting on the pad of a floor jack, crank it up slightly until the axle rotates just enough to slip the bolts out. Works like a breeze. I can adjust both my UCA's in less than 10 minutes using this method...

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I have to agree with the pipe wrench method. I've used it several times, and makes things much easier. .02

I used a heavy duty ratchet strap around the upper mount and something, I dont remember what, and used my foot to ratchet it about an inch. this was when I took out the driver side upper mount to replace both bushing until I can afford new arms, thats with 4.5" of lift to...

i just did mine and i used a winch and than also had to put it in gear with blocks under the tire

when i swaped my front rear i hooked the uca up first then the lca put springs in put tires back on put jeep on ground then turned steering wheel until track bar lined up :laugh:

A very dangerous, redneck solution is to wrap a tow strap around the axle, on the side you are reconnecting the control arms. Block/chock rear wheels. Connect said tow strap to another vehicle, and have a friend very carefully pull the axle into place, directed by your non-ASE approved shouts of "BACK...BACK...STOP!!!". Slap the bolt in and unhook the strap.

I'm sure this is an extremely dumb thing to do. Not recommended to perform this while the wife/girlfriend is watching...or parents...or when uninsured...oh hell, I can't think of any reason why this is any kind of safe, and I absolutely don't endorse it. :eyes: but it's been done, and it's effortless and works like a charm

Thanks for all the great techniques! I didn't get to try the redneck method but it does look like fun so maybe next time. Success was a result of a combination of methods...a ratchet strap from the frame to the UCA mount, a prybar and floor jack rotating the axle, the bottle jack pushing the mount back, blocking the passenger front tire, a c-clamp crimping the cheap sheet metal UCA together, and of course a little persuasion from the BFH. I have a picture I could send if anyone would like to post it for general amusement.
After that it was just a matter of the rear upper shock mounts (all four broken of course). I drilled and tapped one side and knocked the other side out and replaced it. All set with BPE's and shocks installed. Now the only painful job left is getting the lower swaybar mounts out so I can install the JKS pins. I don't remember it being this hard last time but I lost a T-55 bit trying to turn these things. I now understand the pins are press-fit. I've taken a break on this one after trying the blue wrench and BFH for a while. Also soaked it in PB blaster but they're on there pretty good. I thought this stuff would be easy on a newer jeep! So anything I missed on this one? Maybe just a larger hammer?
-Jeremy

Jeremy 99XJ said:

...a ratchet strap from the frame to the UCA mount, a prybar and floor jack rotating the axle, the bottle jack pushing the mount back, blocking the passenger front tire, a c-clamp crimping the cheap sheet metal UCA together, and of course a little persuasion from the BFH. -Jeremy

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:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: If all else fails, get a bigger hammer!

Jeremy 99XJ said:

Now the only painful job left is getting the lower swaybar mounts out so I can install the JKS pins. I don't remember it being this hard last time but I lost a T-55 bit trying to turn these things. I now understand the pins are press-fit. I've taken a break on this one after trying the blue wrench and BFH for a while. Also soaked it in PB blaster but they're on there pretty good.

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Got a grinder? Drill a hole through the head where it looks like you can fit a T-55...makes it deep enough to pass through the far side of the mounting bracket, and then cut the head and bolt sides off the bolt. Hit the remaining 'donut' with a pointy air chisel bit, and it should pop out pretty easily. Do all this quickly though so it doesn't cool; it's like a poor-man's Blue Torch from heating up after grinding it.

Sounds like a plan...I'll see what Mr. Sawzall can do here and let you know.... :firedevil
Thanks,
Jeremy