• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Blown 2 Rear Axle straps and bolts.....?

Ghost

Ghost

Member Number 257
NAXJA Member
Location
Hartsville, South Carolina
Ok I was running a 3" AAL and 2" block with a Daystar Greasable shackle. I think the problems with he rear started after I put in the blocks. I now have a Rusty's 6" leaf pack that has sagged to 5" or so. I am toying with putting the ubolt upgrade in and trying it as is. I noticed that the pinion is turned up in the rear more so than normal. Could this be the main cause of my shearing those straps and bolts? Or is more likely that the blocks were giving the axle more legerage on the AAL spring pack and causing it to turn up more? I did a search and found some mention to degree shims for large lifts. Would they help? If so would I put the fat side facing front to turn the pinion down? Oh yea the only vibes I ever experienced were after teh frotn lock-right was installed. It is a harmonic type vibe that grows and fades.
 
do you have shims on the rearend ? is the t case droped ?
i droped my t case 1.5 in. and used 4 deg. shims and its perfect with 4.5 re springs and a 1 in shackle lift . if you want to upgrade to u bolts i drilled out the holes to 5/16th and used nappa u bolts i think its # 53-410 or if not its #369 one is a u joint and one is the straps
 
The tcase is dropped 3/4" now. Are teh shimms angled so it turns the pinion down or up?
 
Shims turn the pinion up. At least they were made to. You "can" put them in either way. Your blown straps sound like they are coming from axle wrap. Worn springs? Loose U-bolts?
 
U-bolts were tight when I put in the new springs. These springs are turning the pinion up a good bit. If I still loose u-joints after the new springs I think there are 3 or 4 options. 1.) New pack! $$$$ I don't have right now! 2.) Shimms that turn the pinion down. 3.) AAL to the Rusty's pack to stiffen it up. Any sugestions on what kind? 4.) Lower the front spring mount and tie it into my rock rails. (Like the T and J chasis stifiner.) So what says you guys? I should have the rear shaft back in place tomorrow for some testing.
 
If you are breaking the straps and bolts, then you might have axle wrap which is causing the u joint to over extend and break the straps/bolts. You can make the leaf pack stiffer to combat the axle wrap or build a traction bar. If you like the way the springs ride, then build a bar. If you want a stiffer ride, then add the AAL but then you still have the possibility of wrap.

You can use the shims to angle the pinion up or down as needed to correct for drive line angles but it wont solve any axle wrap issues.

AARON
 
the shims were installed with the lift to help point the pinion where it needs to go. but the blocks help deteriorate the life of the rusty springs. so much so that the pinion is pointed where it should go, had your springs not been so saggy.
one solution is to get new springs. another would be for an SYE kit and CV style driveshaft.
and yet another would be for you to remove the shims and let the pinion point parrallel with the t-case output shaft.
 
Ok if you are refering to me I have NO shimms in there now. My thought is to put some in there to point it more level. not turned up like it is now. I'm thinking the anti-wrap/traction bar might be the way to go with a shim to lower the pinion to get it more in line or parallel with the tase output.
 
Shim the pinion 1-2º down from parrallel with the t-case output. it could give you a small vib on deceleration but you won't snap joints.

also check for clearance in the yokes at full droop of the rear suspension.
 
Are your blocks tapered or straight? Longer shackles will tilt your pinion up. If you have tapered blocks installed with the wide part towards the back this will tilt your pinion up even further. Now if you have any axle wrap the pinion will rotate up past the normal working angle of the u-joint so it binds and shears the straps. This probably started when you installed the blocks because they cause more axle wrap and if they are tapered they further compound the problem by pointing the diff up further.

If they are tapered blocks try turning them around, if not use shims to point the diff back down.
 
Ok i wasruning blocks with an AAL. But now it is a 6" leaf pack that has sagged some. The pinion is turned up so it sounds like the best bet is to get some shimms in there. Now to try and find some locally.
 
I hope I am wrong on this but! The pinion is at 25deg and the tcase output is about 10deg! Please tellme that I am not looking at a 15deg shim! :bawl: :twak:
 
What are you using to measure your angles, and where are you measuring them?
 
I'm using an angle finder like this: http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/prod...6188&mscssid=QT7UQ15U4HVM9JBRWM039BQ1V49GCSTA

And for the pinion I measured it two ways. Once on the face of the rear yoke and came up with 25* and once on the bottom of the yoke and it was the same! As for the tcase I put the slip yoke in and bridged it across the tcase output and the yoke cap and got about 10*. I also put it on the DS itself and it was about the same as the rear output, 10*....
 
I second the axle wrap issue. If the springs are starting to sag and you use blocks, you can just about guarantee you will have major axle wrap. Blocks should be banned if you don't have a torque bar or springs with the extra wrap. Shims will only bandaid the problem for a while. Keep the straps. If you go with ubolts, you will be replacing yokes instead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Routing ARB Air Lines to Rear Axle
Replies
10
Views
3K
XJlimitedx99
X
O
Rear Brake Noise Question and Hepl Please
Replies
5
Views
373
asymptonic
A
S
96 XJ rear axle ratio
Replies
3
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
O
Rear Weight Distribution and Shackle Length
2
Replies
25
Views
6K
Black1990jeep
B
K
WJ front axle in Xj -89
2 3
Replies
41
Views
9K
75SV1
7
Back
Top