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Cheapwad beadlocks part II

OT

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jensen, UT
I was reading an old thread by Woody about using sheet metal screws to lock a bead ala drag racing style. Consensus was: NO!

So here's another angle. Would it work better if the screws were put in the horizontal edge of the wheel rather than the outside edge? You know, with the point of the screw pointing toward the tread rather than toward the inside of the wheel? You follow? This way the tire wouldn't be trying to "pull" off of the screws, but rather there would be more of a shearing force applied to them.

Well, Fire away:)
 
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sounds like a radical idea to me. I think I heard of something like that on the Hammer down2 video I got a randy's ring and pinion. Funny thing is I think it was an XJ with the too. hah we're cheap bastages us xj ppl.
 
I know they showed it as a cheap alternative in I think the last JP. Kinda curious myself, kinda skeptical too. I wonder if anyone here has actually done it?

Pat
 
If anything I think you would split the shear forces into shear and tensile stress to the screw, which would be better I suppose than just a big shear force alone.
If you want to go really cheap, someone suggested gluing the bead onto the rim using industrial adhesive. You would never get the tire back off unless you cut it, but it would definitely hold both sides of the bead (unlike standard beadlocks) and probably never lose air.
 
Errr....thats the way it should be done with screws.The screws go on the inside of the rim pointy end towards the tread,not on the outside pointing towards the inside bead.Still would you screw a $1000.00+ set of tires or just get bead locks?
OlyWa
 
Moroso whel rim screws go through the rim into the bead parallel with the tread. They are designed to eliminate the tire rotating (slipping) on the rim at low pressure (4 - 6 lbs). Realize that drag racers exert very little side load - just rotational load - and the screws are definitely not a substitute for bead locks. NHRA has just this year required bead locks for Pro Stocks and other 200 MPH+ cars as the screws will rip out with enough centrifugal load.
 
rsalemi said:
Moroso whel rim screws go through the rim into the bead parallel with the tread. They are designed to eliminate the tire rotating (slipping) on the rim at low pressure (4 - 6 lbs). Realize that drag racers exert very little side load - just rotational load - and the screws are definitely not a substitute for bead locks. NHRA has just this year required bead locks for Pro Stocks and other 200 MPH+ cars as the screws will rip out with enough centrifugal load.
The idea is that this takes care of the side load because it's NOT mounted drag racer style. This puts the screws parallel with the side wall, basically turning the screw 90 degrees from drag style.

The rotational -vs- side load issue was taken care of in the last thread.

This thread is find out why THIS method wouldn't work as a cheap alternative.

Pat, I looked it up and that little article in JP is exactly what I'm talking about. It's just that they don't tell if it would actually work or not. They just say that it's what someone is doing with their own wheels.
 
I like the industrial strength adhesive idea myself...with tires this expensive, doing an experiment like that just gives the the willies.
 
Okie Terry said:
that little article in JP is exactly what I'm talking about. It's just that they don't tell if it would actually work or not. They just say that it's what someone is doing with their own wheels.

The article says it works, but offroaders mount the screws inboard to keep them from being ground off by the rocks and to use silicone to help seal the screws. There is even a kit they mention with grade 8 self-tapping screws.
 
Another cheap option, however not as cheap, is to go with a hummer beadlock. I've just bought a set for my FJ40. You can find them for about $25 a rim. Then you have to buy a weld-in center section, to change the offset and bolt pattern. You can buy these for about $200 a set. So, for rougly $60 a rim you can get a strong, custom, "real" double locking beadlock.
Only problem with these is they use a 16.5" tire, so if you can find one of these you're set.
 
crimsonride said:
Another cheap option, however not as cheap, is to go with a hummer beadlock. I've just bought a set for my FJ40. You can find them for about $25 a rim. Then you have to buy a weld-in center section, to change the offset and bolt pattern. You can buy these for about $200 a set. So, for rougly $60 a rim you can get a strong, custom, "real" double locking beadlock.
Only problem with these is they use a 16.5" tire, so if you can find one of these you're set.
Where did you find yours? I may go this route on my next set of tires, but for now I think I'm gonna try this elcheapo method.
 
Behold.

20 minutes per wheel
Screws................$10.00
Drill bits...............$3.00
RTV silicone.........$1.50
El Cheapo factor....Priceless

is.php


is.php
 
I found them on a local Utah forum, just a guy had them sitting around. There's usually a set on Ebay, you can also find them at military surplus places.
Looks good, I bet they hold. That's cheap for sure.
 
I haven't picked them up so I called the guy I'm buying them from and they don't have them. I did a little search and found a set of run-flats/beadlocks for $17 ea, that's not so bad so I'll still be getting them. I think you have to have at least a 37 for these though, not sure. I'll be running 38's so I can go this route if I have too.
6x6 usa also sells a PVC ring for them, they want like $50 ea though. That's too much IMO. I'm going to see if there's any local companies around here who can cut me some PVC to fit.
I'll let you guys know how they work.
 
chad said:
Did you do the inside of the wheel also?
Let us know how they work.
I only made these single lock, just the outside lip.

Oh yeah, just a tip, when you drill the holes, don't try to drill in the center of the lip, closer to the edge is better (1/4 or 3/8 of an inch from the edge, max) unless you just want to deflate the tire slowly (dont ask how I know:) ) and weld the hole back up.
 
Did you drill into the bead of the tire too or just let the threads screw into it? Can you dismount the tire again if you needed to, or will the bead be too chewed up? Also, how did you get such an even spacing with the screws?
When is the next time you're going wheeling? Take som pics of the terrain you ride and give us specifics like psi you run. Looks good.
 
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I support Bush, the rest of the world is just adhering to the "don't spank your children, give them a lollipop instead" philosophy. John Kerry adheres to the "now I support it, Now I don't" philosophy.


Dan "who cares what France thinks?" Turner
 
Lucas said:
Did you drill into the bead of the tire too or just let the threads screw into it? Can you dismount the tire again if you needed to, or will the bead be too chewed up? Also, how did you get such an even spacing with the screws?
When is the next time you're going wheeling? Take som pics of the terrain you ride and give us specifics like psi you run. Looks good.
I drill just through the rim and screwed the screws into the bead. Hopefully these tires will last till the tread wears thin, then I'll get 35"s with "real" beadlocks.

Spaced evenly through mathcematics. 30 screws spaced 1.5" apart or therabouts.

I'll take some pictures next time after I get everything put back together. I wheel on granite and slickrock. And then is when I'll figure the best psi for these tires, but probably around 10psi.
 
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