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anyone put a Dana 20 in an XJ before

W

watson

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cincy, Ohio
A buddy of mine was looking into the Dana 300 flip kit instead of doing an SYE on his 231. You can get a twin stick with 2lo for dirt cheap and the gears in the 300 are definitely stronger than chain in the 231. We were looking at an early Bronco and noticed that it uses a Dana 20 T-case with a driver's side front output. Aren't the 20 and 300 interchangeable as far as mounting (or are ford 20s different than Jeep 20s) and aren't they about the same strength? So why couldn't you just use a 20 from an EB instead of flipping a 300. Anyone consider this before? Thanks.
 
I don't have an answer for you, but I would like to know more about this too. The reason why I am interested is because they make a Klune and a Marlin Crawler for the EB Dana 20. The overall length of either one of those combo's is close to the stock 231 but with many more gear choices.

cover_shot_more_contrast2_small1.gif


KluneV Marlin crawler

Klune-V-BroncoDana20Combo.jpg

High Impact KluneV and EB Dana 20
 
Well the Dana 20 that Jeep uses has the same mounting pattern as the Dana 18, the "texas" bolt pattern, and it is WAY different than the round 6 bolt D-300 pattern.

After going through all the trouble and expense of various adaptors, and Klune modules, you could have an Atlas that is way stronger in every way than the 20, and likely would end up cheaper in the long run.

My .02
 
That true of the Jeep d20 but the Ford has a 2:46 low. There the gears you use in a Jeep case to get lower with going Teralow.

Keith
 
Are there any other gear drive cases than the D18 and D20? I like the idea of changing to a gear tcase, but divorcing to mount the D18/D20 seems like more work than I'm already planning....

This will probably be something eventually parked behind an NV4500 or NV5600, depending on how much money I have when I finally get to do this...

5-90
 
Rob Patterson said:
I don't have an answer for you, but I would like to know more about this too. The reason why I am interested is because they make a Klune and a Marlin Crawler for the EB Dana 20. The overall length of either one of those combo's is close to the stock 231 but with many more gear choices.
Click to expand...

The Klune is available for practically any standard 6 bolt round pattern transfercase tranny combo. You don't need a 20 to use one.
 
I was thinking it would be way cheaper than an Atlas (I wasn't thinking about a Klune but that is a good idea if you wheel out west). If you go with a Ford 20 with that 2.46 low range, that is enough gear reducation for where I wheel (TN, KY, NC, IN, OH). Those 4:1s are way too low in the mud. I was thinking you could pick up a 20 for say $200 (probably less than that even), rebuild it yourself for $150 (if it needs it). Twin stick with 2-low is $150. I'm guessing an adapter to an AX15 is going be somewhere around $200. That's $700 for a t-case that is stronger than a 231, already has a solid yoke, has 2wd low, and about 6 inches shorter so you can use a longer rear driveshaft. It would even be shorter than an Atlas at less than 1/2 the cost. The adapter I guess would eat up some of that reduced length though. Please keep your comments coming. Y'all have aleady brought up points that I didn't consider before. Thanks.
 
You should add the cost of a heavy duty output shaft to the 20, that is there weak link.

I am pretty familiar with 20/18 cases, I run a modded 18 case in my buggy (which is in pieces at the moment :) ) The 18 and the 20 do use the same gearsets, and they are easily capable of running a mild V-8 with just a few upgrades. I run a Novak Ent. intermediate shaft, a custom case reinforcement ring, and other top secret goodies. I chose the 18 because both my diffs now follow each other through the rocks, which is pretty neat.

CRASH
 
Not sure about the Ford d20 but you can do the twin stick and 2lo on a jeep d20 for almost nothing. The jeep d20 and d18 share the same case. You just need the front output housing and twin sticks from the d18.

Keith
 
What ratio is the low range in an 18? Isn't it pretty low? A buddy of mine has one in a CJ-3B. That thing is sweet. I love the offset diffs front and rear. Nobody made the 18 with driverside outputs though, right?
 
I don't think it ever came as a drives side output. It was only in the early jeeps, I think. The low is something like 2:46 best I remember. You really wouldn't want one in a daily driver. It is gear driven to the rear axle even in 2hi so it's kinda noisy. the 20 is stright through in 2hi.
 
So then on a Ford 20, I couldn't use the front housing of an 18. Would the twin sticks from an 18 still work? Too bad it would involve switching out the axles or an 18 would be sweet. Tough, small, twin sticks, 2-lo, PTO. Anyone know of any passenger side drop D44s or 9 inchers that would work in an XJ? I know some waggies had 44s with offset diffs front and rear. I've heard these aren't very strong though. Crash, what axles are you running? Thanks guys.
 
The Klune is available for practically any standard 6 bolt round pattern transfercase tranny combo. You don't need a 20 to use one.
Click to expand...

I wasn't looking at the Klune so I could use a EB D 20, I know a simple adapter could be used to match it up to most trannys. I was interested in the total package because there are so many gear choices.

Developed as a replacement for the Wrangler NP231 Tcase, this combo capitalizes on the early Bronco Dana 20 transfer case. Since this unit is Left Drop, and is only 10,5" long, it puts the front driveshaft on the correct (driver) side for a Jeep Wrangler, The assembled combo is 18.5 inches long, from the front mount surface to the center of the rear yoke (Where the center of the U-joint would be). This is about 3" shorter than the stock NP231 as used in a Wrangler, and is only about 1" longer than an NP231 with a slip yoke eliminator kit on it! It will bolt in where the stock NP231 Tcase comes out. It comes with 1310 CV type yokes, front and rear. It can be made to work with the factory Wrangler shifter, by extending the linkage rod.

With this system, you can have four different Tcase ranges to shift between:

1 to 1 high range, 2.46 to one low range (Bronco box in low, Klune in Hi),

4:1 low range (Bronco box in Hi, Klune in Low)

Almost 10 to one low range (Both boxes in low)
Click to expand...
Info on Klune-V and EB Dana 20 combo

Strange enough, the company, KluneV, doesn't make a gear reduction box for the EB D20. If you go to the KluneV website, they offer an exclusive Marlin Crawler for the EB D20. To get a Klune gear reduction box in front of an EB D20 you must get one modified by high impact.

I like the total length of this package, but as CRASH pointed out, there are some strength issues with the D 20.
 
NP208?

What about a Ford NP208? Does anyone know anything about this x-case? I imagine it is strong. It's out of a full-size Bronco. I have the opportunity to score a 79 Bronco for less than a grand. It has a 44 front, 9" rear, 351, and a NP208. If I could use the axles and x-case, I think it is worth it. Could sell the motor and tranny and trash the rest. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
I've heard these aren't very strong though. Crash, what axles are you running? Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

My buggy runs a front 44 from a fullsize Chevy, cut down to 63 inches. The rear is an FZJ 80 Landcruiser diff with the factory electric locker, factory 13 inch disks, and factory full floating shafts. It is offset 8 inches to the passenger side, and is also 63 inches wide.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with offset Wagoneer 44's, they are just as strong as any other 44 out there. You will need early model units, pre 1980 or so. The rear is 59" wide and the front is 61". Most of the front pass. offset 44's from Waggy's are drum brake, though.

Yes, 18's are fairly loud for highway use, but I can't hear it over the din of the 37" tires anyway.

CRASH
 
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