Head Gasket?

How hard is it to do a head gasket on the 4.0? I have done them before on the older small block chevy's and also the 2.8. Is there anything I need to be concerned about with this motor or is it fairly painless like the others mentioned? Thanks for the assistance.

It's not too bad, but it is a HEAVY single head. You can do it by yourself in 3-4 hours if everything comes loose. The FSM says you can reuse the headbolts once. A couple of alignment bolts will make your life a bunch easier as well.

Be careful when you put the pushrods back in. I missed the lifter on one and it just about disappeared! I was able to reach it with a pair of needlenose pliers and bring it back up.

Ideally, you'll have the head checked while its off. I picked a remanned head to avoid the downtime, and had to get the alignment dowels for the manifolds as an extra part.

It's fairly simple, but here are a few points...

1) It's actually easier to lift the head and manifolds as a unit - get a helper. Putting the manifolds back on and torquing them in place will teach you a great many new swear words (you'll make most of them up on the spot...)

2) Check the head bolts for paint spots. Paint them on removal if they don't have spots. If they do, go buy a new set - they're only good to be torqued twice.

3) Remember that the front driver's side bolt goes into the water jacket (I think it's #11 on the spiral.) Use LocTite PST for the threads.

4) Also remember that (RENIX) fuel rail seals don't come with the head gasket set. Buy them separately.

5) Might as well change the lifters while you are in there - since the head needs to come off anyhow to do that job. Murphy's Law sez they'll fail a week after you get the job done...

6) Get a helper if you can. You'll want help lifting the head out - even if you take everything else apart first!

7) When reinstalling, use LocTite #277 on the exhaust bolts. I also like to use a thin coat of RTV Copper on both sides of the gasket - AND MAKE SURE you don't lose any of the Belleville washers (the little dishes) on the bolts! They spread the bolt clamping force out into something useful!

8) I have a great deal of success over the last 20 years with non-ferrous bolts in exhaust hardwear - the nuts for the manifold collector studs should be 3/8"-16, same thread on the head (with an UHL of 1.5", IIRC.) The bolts can be either brass or Silicon bronze - check a marine supply store, Fastenal will have them if no-one else does.


I think that's the worst of it...

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