Armoring the Tierod

Fergie · Dec 16, 2003

So, after bending my beefy stock tierod, I was thinking about what I can do to stop this from happening too frequently.

Would a piece of tube with an ID of the TR be the best bet(sleeve it)? Or would a piece of solid stock, inserted into the TR, with an OD the same as the TR ID work better?

I dont want to do any fancy shmancy aftermarket steering setup as I only have 3" of lift, and would prefer a completely stock-ish setup. What all have you folks done to alleviate the problem?

Also, if the tierod fails first, does this mean something else will fail? Kinda like hooking up a 600hp engine to a Dana 35 with 49" tires and a driver that likes the skinny pedal. You want the u-joints to break before the axle does...understand the analogy? Anyways, lemme hear what ya got.

Thanks

Fergie

BajaXJ92 · Dec 16, 2003

1. Hi-steer setup

2. Put your tires ON the rocks when you wheel rather that trying to plow over them :laugh3:

Fergie · Dec 16, 2003

1. I want to avoid any type of non-stock--ish setup

2. Plowing works for me...and I also like to use my t-case as a skid over the rocks that I dont plow out of the way

Colin W. · Dec 16, 2003

I believe AJ at Ajsoffroadarmor.com is currently having a special on beefed up tie rods. $65 shipped to your door. Here's the link to the thread, I don't know if you have to be registered on his site or not.Beefy Tie Rods It may be worth is to just upgrade your current tie rod.
Colin W.

Incredible Hulk · Dec 16, 2003

Buy one from goferitt offroad. I have beaten on mine and it has budged. Heck I am redoing all of steering you can buy mine once it is done! :laugh3:

d10shun · Dec 16, 2003

I found a nice beefy tie rod from Big Daddy Monster tie rod - check tellico4x4.com It has wrench flats for easy adjustment. It ran about $80-90 and is an easy stock install. It is way stiff!

firegod33 · Dec 17, 2003

Looks pretty sweet, but... What becomes the weak link?

BLUTO · Dec 17, 2003

No matter whose tie-rod you use, you are still exposed to rocks, logs, etc.... Have you considered a factory front skid plate? I have one for my 2000XJ that I'm installing along with Rusty's engine/tranny skid. I have Rusty's front tow bar installed (removed center valance) and it is going to require me to cut-down and redrill the front part of the skid.
The factory skid is relatively cheap ($60 - $70?) and bolts from the front bumper supporting metal to the factory holes around the swaybar bushings. A 20 - 30 minute installation for someone who doesn't have to re-fab the skid pan like me.
It will protect your front steering components and the front of your oil pan.

BLUTO

calvin andrus · Dec 17, 2003

I just sleeved mine, it worked fine, by friend did his too, it works good to for moderate wheeling. later
-calvin

Fergie · Dec 17, 2003

Well, finally got all the tools and time together to change the TR. Come to find out TR lengths differ between 90 to 91. The older TRs are about an inch and a half longer. My jeep is knock kneed now

Oh well. I think I may look into the factory front skid. Hopefully it'll work with my lift, if not I'll have to find the website that has the skid write-up. Thanks all

Fergie

TRNDRVR · Dec 17, 2003

When I was getting ready for Moab back in October I put on a Rusty's steering conversion 3 days before the trip. Sold my RE Chrome moly tie-rod to pay for the Rusty's. Well the Rusty's didn't work and I was left with basically with no steering. In a hurry for parts, I grabbed a friends stock tie-rod and took in down to a local 4x4 shop. They sleeved it in 1.5" DOM tubing, crossed drilled it, then welded it all up. I tell you, that thing is so stout, I went ahead and had another one made just in case. The times I've got to try it was down at Moab in October, and back in November when I wheeled with the WCGC down at Johnson Valley. My weak point now in my steering is my drag link. I also carry a spare one of those. Works for me, it should work for you. HTH
Thanks,
Dan.

olympic4x4tech · Dec 17, 2003

Sleeving the stock tierod works, but when you weld the sleve on make sure it covers as much of the stocks TR as possible. If you weld the sleeve on and leave 2 " of the threaded part of the stock TR exposed you will just snap that exposed part clean off. Run the sleeve the total length of the stock TR with jsut enought space to weld it on and use jam nuts on your tir rod ends instead of the factory clamps.

chad · Dec 17, 2003

Where can i get the jam nuts?

cbremer · Dec 17, 2003

olympic4x4tech said:
If you weld the sleeve on and leave 2 " of the threaded part of the stock TR exposed you will just snap that exposed part clean off.

you mean like this?

new steering is in the works

XJEEPER · Dec 17, 2003

cbremer said:
you mean like this?

new steering is in the works

Got FLASH? :sunshine:

XJEEPER · Dec 17, 2003

BLUTO said:
No matter whose tie-rod you use, you are still exposed to rocks, logs, etc.... Have you considered a factory front skid plate? I have one for my 2000XJ that I'm installing along with Rusty's engine/tranny skid. I have Rusty's front tow bar installed (removed center valance) and it is going to require me to cut-down and redrill the front part of the skid.
The factory skid is relatively cheap ($60 - $70?) and bolts from the front bumper supporting metal to the factory holes around the swaybar bushings. A 20 - 30 minute installation for someone who doesn't have to re-fab the skid pan like me.
It will protect your front steering components and the front of your oil pan.

BLUTO

....or just stop ramming your junk into trees, stumps and rocks? I've wheeled for 10 years and have yet to bend or even hit my tierod on anything for that matter. Maybe the trails here in Utah are just too mild.....

The usual cause of drag link and tierod bends that I've seen are bigger than 33" tires on tall lifts with stock steering components, all the added weight and leverage takes it's toll eventually. Don't rule out bind during suspension droop.

Fergie · Dec 18, 2003

Well, I cant decide on whether to buy an aftermarket rod, or a new one or what. I have one question that I really need your guy's input on:

What will fail if the tierod doesnt bend when you hit something? Draglink, knuckles....what?!?

Thanks

Fergie

Jared · Dec 18, 2003

You would have to turn your tie rod into a sooper dooper chromoly 2" thick solid hunk of grade AA+ American black angus BEEF before you had to worry about the other stuff breaking when the tie rod contacts the rocks. I think that for most people, the beefed tie rod is still the weak link. This is assuming that you are bending it because you mashed it on a rock, not because of excessive steering force.
I've bent my stocker and have plans to just sleeve one like TRNDRVR did. Cheap, simple, effective, and you don't have to deal with ordering anything online.

Jared

Fergie · Dec 18, 2003

I think I am just going to order the Goferit flip kit, find a front skid, and buy a new TR. I dont need anything HD, and this is the best thing I can think of. If not that, then the kit, skid, and a thicker TR and TREs

Any more suggestions? Thanks again

Fergie

2offroad · Dec 18, 2003

front skid part# 82202851 is about $70 at the dealership.

Armoring the Tierod

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