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couple questions from people who have been there

B

BUCKYXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa, OK
First off I have a D44/D30 combo welded front and rear well front soon to be and running 31s currently. Stepping up to 35s or 36s tax time at the beginning of the year thank you Maile (9 month old daughter). Will the D44 be ok pushing these or should I swap in a 60 or 14bolt. The D30 with larger joints is what I have in front can they take the abuse. Keep in mind I am a make it or break it kinda guy. I was breaking D35 shafts with 31s open.

I also want to know something else yes a structural integrity question. Is the rear hatch add to the integrity of the structure.

I will be running these tires with a 5" lift and shat loads of trimming.
DIG IT!
 
If I may quote the signature line for a moment "I'm Goona DIE" go ahead and weld the front.
 
Oh forgot to mention this is no longer gonna be a daily driver although I will drive it on occasion when I want too. I am getting another XJ for $1200
DIG IT
 
Do you think it would be a hassle to put a 44 in front? It might cut down on breakage.
 
Keep the rear 44 and get a front 44. If your that hard on it the d30 will definitely start popping with 35/36's
 
I don't really want to swap in a D44 for the front yet. If I do that I am going pass. side drop with a D300 tcase not flipped. trying to talk the father in law into letting me have one of their old tow trucks had D60s kingpin knuckles.
 
The indent on drivers side of hump will need to be put on pass side to get an un-clocked 300 in there I was going to do the same thing to put my exhaust on drivers side (eleminate crossing of tranny)
 
M. Lake said:
The indent on drivers side of hump will need to be put on pass side to get an un-clocked 300 in there I was going to do the same thing to put my exhaust on drivers side (eleminate crossing of tranny)
Click to expand...
Had to leave in hurry!

There is a way of doing it with out doing the hump thing, but it leaves the 300 clocked ~20 some degres down, but then it sticks out from under the jeep lower then cross member.
 
BUCKYXJ said:
Shafts are chaper than lockers for me...
Click to expand...

How about friends? :)

Tough to be so prone to breaking on every trip, sort of takes the fun out of it. Personally, I won't wheel with anyone that has a welded D30.

Been there....done that. (n)
 
I destroyed WARN shafts, detroits and gears in my front D30, this is why i made the upgrade to D60/D70.

35/36 is definitely too much for a D30 and a D44 front has to be built to withstand the forces.
 
So the vibe I am getting is don't use the D30 alright that can be done now what kinda front axle and out of what. D60 fronts already checked the father in laws salvage there is only one with kingpin knuckles but it is on his grandpas tow truck that has been parked for years and they wont part it out yet. What about other chevy front ends?
The rear I am not so worried about I have a D60 or 14bolt I can use so no problems there.

Also what about the rear hatch being stuctural? I am gonna do an internal cage and need to know if I need to cross brace back there.
 
D60 5" Lift?

Ya just can't fit a D60 under 5" of lift. No clearance to the oilpan with the monster pumpkin if yer gonna flex that thing. A D44 is a tight fit on 5" of lift, as in "barely".

Build a D44 and put CTM u-joints in it with alloy shafts and a Detroit. A rear 44 is probably enough with alloy shafts...but you'll be twisting standard shafts regularly with a "make it or break it" style.

I'd suggest you think about what you are trying to accomplish (what trails you want to run), and then design from ground up and evaluate everything from the t-case to axles to suspension design so you don't end up spending all of your coin on repairs and adjustments rather than the best solution up front.

A 5" lift plus 35" tires plus go-pedal is leaving an awful lot out of the equation.

Nay
 
What Nay said. My vote is for a D44 front and a D60 rear. I love the peace of mind with those 35 spline shafts. Seriously think about a Ford HP front 44. It works so well for keeping driveline angles where they need to be and it has the stock drivers side diff. If you have access to the junkyard, you should be able to swap in any brake or steering combo you want.
Parts may be cheap, but I agree with the fact that it sucks to have to swap out shafts on the trail every time you go out, and I sure wouldn't want to ride with someone who did that. A welded 30 is just begging for trouble.
Sorry to pee in your cheerios, but you asked for advice. Whatever you build make it as solid as you can afford. It saves time, money and a lot of agrivation in the long run.
mattk
 
Goatman said:
How about friends? :)

Tough to be so prone to breaking on every trip, sort of takes the fun out of it. Personally, I won't wheel with anyone that has a welded D30.

Been there....done that. (n)
Click to expand...

Yes you do! Or did. I ran a welded front D30 for many years with 35s, didn't have any problems with it, although I did have to weld it twice cause it broke the teeth that were welded once. I ended up welding the side gears & spiders to the carrier and that solved the problem.

Disclaimer: I was running Warn inner & outers with hub conversion so I could unlock one side if needed. Turning in the rocks sucks with a welded front!

Goat, I'm hurt. :(
 
vintagespeed said:
Yes you do! Or did. I ran a welded front D30 for many years with 35s, didn't have any problems with it, although I did have to weld it twice cause it broke the teeth that were welded once. I ended up welding the side gears & spiders to the carrier and that solved the problem.

Disclaimer: I was running Warn inner & outers with hub conversion so I could unlock one side if needed. Turning in the rocks sucks with a welded front!

Goat, I'm hurt. :(
Click to expand...

Just don't do it again. Oh yeah, now you have a D44........if it ever gets on the trail again. ;)

You were running incognito.......I didn't know it. :D

Plus, your set up with Warn shafts, etc. is stronger. :)
 
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