WJ Steeriing Solution

Anyone have a kit out yet? I know ORGS was working on one, anyone see how much it will cost? I already search for most of the parts and it would look like I would have to buy a whole front axle of a WJ to get mostly what I need.

I know the WJ would be the best solution, but I really do not want to sink too much into a D30.

I'm also considering the Tera Knuckle, from Sams Offfroad.

Current Specs: 6.5" lift, Rusty's HD Trackbar, OEM links

My main goal is to help reduce steering angle and add trail confidience, and not spend a ton on a D30.

I voted for nubber 3.....best bang for the buck. I used DOM tube, TRE's, reverse drilled the taper and an Over the Knuckle inverted Y design (Paul S style) which works well and is DW free.........it even passed the "Wedge your front tire into Golden Crack and do a 3ft backtire wheelie" test with flying colors.

i got a pair of WJ knuckles off car-part.com for $90 and the .25" spacers from ORGS for $25, so that should give you an idea of cost. don't forget... if you get the WJ knuckles, then you'll need the big 2-piston calipers and bigger rotors (drilled to the XJ bolt pattern) to round out the package

Well, I just did some searching on Car-parts and added up about ~$350 for all parts shipped to Fresno. This does not include arms and TRE's but that should only cost about $200.

One last ?,

Addition to current specs, I have a 2001 TJ D30, would I still need the spacer? Or need different Rotors?

the spacer is used to line the ball joints up with the axle u-joint, so AFAIK, you still need it. to use the WJ knuckles and retain the 5x4.5" bolt pattern you will re-use your TJ uni-bearings, (which have a shallower offset than the WJ uni-bearings). You will need WJ rotors, redrilled to 5x4.5". note that converting to WJ steering will require relocation of the axle sway bar mounts and axle-end track bar bracket.

Mark Hinkley at ORGS Mfg. has done a lot of the R&D and ORGS sells many of the parts needed: http://www.orgsmfg.com/project/WJKnuckle.htm

Of course, for the most effective braking, you should go ahead and spring for the WJ booster and master cylinder. MJR has done this, as have I, and it is nearly a bolt-in swap. You will have to slightly modify the booster's push-rod to mate up with the XJ's brake pedal, and there's a pinch seam above the booster that needs to be slightly bent for clearance.

MJR's write-up on 4x4wire.com: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/

My $$$'s reflect everything, except for the MC and Booster. It's very tempting, but also just spending $150 on an inverted T.

Thanks for the input, I thought for sure the mod would be a lot more costly.