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How big for 39.5" Irocs

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C

csudman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Statesville, NC
Goin Full Width and large soon. Still colleting parts. Im trying to get my basic suspention stuff taken care of. I gonna do a traditional 3 Link w/ track bar in the front and Double Triangulated 4 link in the rear. Im gonna build a subframe from the Frame end of the front links to the frame end of the rear links. Box the front and rear end of the vehicle and renforce the steering box. Although Im plannin hydro assist. Of course a cage. Any way the reason for the post. Any body with Ideas on how much lift I'll need. Not scared of the sawzaw at all. I plan on tubing the rear of the jeep to the bend of the body beneth the rear window. I've got 8" right now and Im cut to crap. I Figure w/ bumpstops I could get 36's maybe 37's. So, any pics Ideas. Probably about 11-12"s in all. What do you folks think? Any pics of xjs that big. Ive seen the one thats white and blue w/ rockwells. Im runnin tons.

Thanks
CJ
 
Wheelbase & trimming

My .02...

don't limit yourself to XJ wheelbase, and 11-12" lift is crazy IMHO unless you mudbog alot.

Up front, sawzall those stupid front inner fenders out of the way...move the battery etc somewnere else and let the meats have room to swing. Maybe even nix the lights? (this obviously isnt your DD) The fenderwells make great bumpstops for 33-36" but...

Out back... if you want to keep the XJ Uniframe intact, tub it! relocate the filler neck? and gouge out/stitch the fenders to the skin as need be.

Those are the two sore spots (for getting creative) I see on an XJ. The MJ has the fuel tank in front of the LF wheel, so that is it's sore spot out back.


Send pix!!!
 
Search for posts by fullsizexj
he will soon be running 40" MT/Rs on Full width and coilover
has some pics with 38"s on here.
 
I plan on tubing the rear. I posted a while ago about removing the headlights and still might. Theres alot of structure behind them and Im not sure if I want to have to rebuild the front end of the jeep. Planin on 110" Wheel base. Im runnin fulwitdh so Im not even sure that the headlights would be in the way. Probably get a fuel cell, Ill at least be moving the gas tank into the rear. Probably between the tubed area in the back.

This is not to scale and the link lenghts aren't right but I threw it together as my thoughts for a subframe. Obviously this will be tied into my cage.

Also I threw in a drawing of my plans for the rearend.

5.jpg


0.jpg
 
Re

Hey
I saw a set of the new IROKS for the first time at the Dixie Run at Tellico this year. A guy with a TJ had them. Before you sart thinking about how much lift you might want to find someone who has them on there vehicle and ask what the actual height is. The ones that were on this TJ stated on the sidewall they were 39.5 but with all of the other XJ's and TJ's around running the same size and 38's made the IROKS look small. It may help to see what there true height is.
 
The rear is a double triangluted 4 link, the front is a traditional 3 link. I just put the links on the subframe for reference. They aren;t on the right plane and there in the wrong place. For that matter theres only 2 links drawn in the front. I was more concerned with the strength of the subframe. Being able to handle the suspesion stresses, the weight of the tires and axles and not tear the rest of the unibody chassis to pieces. This should make the rear end make more sence. The other pic was a bad angle.
0.jpg

1.jpg
 
I'm somewhere between 11 and 12 inches of lift, lots o cuttin, and 39.5's.

faa298bc.jpg
 
maybe you have a soultion, but I can't see any consideration for driveshafts in that design.

the xj with all its sheetmetal is one big fitment issue.

I see no way to get the proper geometry for a rear four-link, without cutting up the floor.

the few rxj's i've seen with rear 4-links have greater link angles, and mean body roll.
 
Hey jeep94xj.....who's rear spring are you running to get that much height? I like your idea of all leaves.
 
Beezil said:
maybe you have a soultion, but I can't see any consideration for driveshafts in that design.
Click to expand...

Like I said this is not a final design by anymeans. I'm more concered w/ the idea for the subframe to attach my links to. Where I put it and the actual design may vary. But I just wanna know if build somthin similar to this to attach my suspension to if that would take alot of the stress off the unibody.
But thanks for noticin
CJ
 
So far the 44 is surviving, but I'm building my front 60 over this winter. I've had it for 3 months but no cash to build yet. I'm running rockkrawler 8 inch springs (junk!) that are "w" shaped, full size chevy shackles, and a 2 inch block. Front axle is already 2 inches forward. I'm gonna move the rear back some when I do new rear springs. Still exploring my options on that.
 
and i'm sure the guy appreciates your speedy response
 
gatmetalxj said:
my 36inch IROKS measure 36inchs...my buddies 42inch IROKS measure; well who cares they're pretty fawking big!!!
Click to expand...
edit:ramsey was more witty than i...
 
always glad to be of service
 
Check out old posts by CheapXJ... he stuffed 36's with no lift...
I have 4.5"s of lift and 34's... I am guessing 36's would fit just before new rear wheel wells.. Eventually I plan on 38's (when I upgrade axles) and I think I can still go with the 4.5" of lift.. sheet metal is overated but a LCG is not...

From what I can see the limiting factor is the rear of the front fenders and the rear wheel wells (I have a 2 door so I dont need to worry about rear doors).. CheapXJ had good advice that you want your front tire centered in the wheel well when its stuffed... adjust as necessary...

oh, and for the tire size... interco's website has all necessary measurements...
 
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